fuel tank hoses on a 79

The entire line or just the hose at the end?? I replaced that whole shebang with braided line 8 years ago, no problems :)

You can get to the top of the tank without dropping the tank. There's enough room to get your hand up there.

The stock fuel line is 1pc , solid from rear to front. If you want to replace it with a solid line you'll have to lift the body. It's too tight at the rear frame kickup, that's why you see many C3s with a compression fitting or flare connector down there at the kickup.

Braided hose was easy to install, just push it up the frame rail... It's much more flexible than tubing :)
 
well, that was easy. removed the cap fished a new hose across and cut back the steel line and clamped on to it by the frame rail. I'm going to order a Fram canister filter bolt it to the rail and run braided line to it. that was as easy as i could make it. thanks for the input. i guess i don't need to be a member of N.C.R.S :rofl:
 
Not Correctly Restored Stingray :D

Good to hear the job went well.... Just the hose is easy..... When I reached up there on top of the frame rail I got rust flakes, dirt, dust in my face, then fuel..... Damn line crumbled as soon as I touched it....lol
 
yes i guess i dodged the bullet , the line seems o.k. if i do at sometime need to change it i would probably run braided up the frame rail too, or possibly aluminum tubing . this car won't ever be "correct" and i don't want it that way either. the Harley guys say F... the factory:lol:
 
yes i guess i dodged the bullet , the line seems o.k. if i do at sometime need to change it i would probably run braided up the frame rail too, or possibly aluminum tubing . this car won't ever be "correct" and i don't want it that way either. the Harley guys say F... the factory:lol:


NOT!!!!!!! aluminum will 'work harden' with vibration, anneal to something brittle as glass, and snap.....had it happen on a boat of mine, years ago, talked to an M/E I used to work with, and he just laughed....so I switched to steel, and cured the problem for some years....

he cautioned me against aluminum or copper lines in anything vibration related....this from nearly 25 years ago.....


:gurney:
 
i agree never copper. i used N.H.R.A approved aluminum on several race cars with no issues. not to say i would or wouldn't use it on the street.

UPDATE: the hose started gassing less than 24 hours after install of the new hose. turns out the local parts yo yo gave me the wrong hose. it split open the outer layer and went sponge soft. went and got new fuel hose and put on my glasses and read fuel/vapor on it. problem solved until the new filter goes on.

WEAR YOUR GLASSES WHEN WORKING ON STUFF THAT CAN BURN OR EXPLODE!!!

AND DONT TRUST SOME IDIOT AT THE PARTS STORE.

:hunter: :club:
 
yes i guess i dodged the bullet , the line seems o.k. if i do at sometime need to change it i would probably run braided up the frame rail too, or possibly aluminum tubing . this car won't ever be "correct" and i don't want it that way either. the Harley guys say F... the factory:lol:


NOT!!!!!!! aluminum will 'work harden' with vibration, anneal to something brittle as glass, and snap.....had it happen on a boat of mine, years ago, talked to an M/E I used to work with, and he just laughed....so I switched to steel, and cured the problem for some years....

he cautioned me against aluminum or copper lines in anything vibration related....this from nearly 25 years ago.....


:gurney:

Does the same apply to stainless ?
 
SS does not get as brittle and fragile as aluminum, if you use rubber insulated clamps and keep the line from vibrating (bolt the line to the frame) it is not a big issue, aluminum tubing between two hose ends (i.e. between fuel pump and carb) is going to vibrate and will crack ...
 

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