Ge Washer Recall - Fire!

[DeeVeeEight]

GE front loading washers made between 2006 and 2010 are subject to a recall due to a "THERMAL EVENT" in other words - fire.
Model # starting with WBVH5
Call 888-345-4124 in the US
Machines have been reported with "fire shooting out of the front of the machine". You are instructed to UNPLUG and NOT USE the machine until repairs are made.

I unfortunately own one.

http://www.geappliances.com/products/recall/washer_2010/

 

[mrvette]

NEVER buy any appliance with digital controls...

having said that, I have a digital control Maytag D/Washer....but I got it off Craigslist for 100 bux....

the GAS range has a oven control/timer , that's IT....microwave of course...woopie doo....

but heavy appliances/refrigerators... today?? no way man....:surrender:

 

[Fuelie74]

Yeah we have one to. I am not happy about this. They say to unplug it and not use it till its repaired. We called to get ours repaired and were told that the parts are on back order and they will call us when they get the parts. Thats bullshit!

 

[DeeVeeEight]

Yeah we have one to. I am not happy about this. They say to unplug it and not use it till its repaired. We called to get ours repaired and were told that the parts are on back order and they will call us when they get the parts. Thats bullshit!

They wanted me to wait over 10 days for service, I got them down to 7. Meantime what are we supposed to do, take our clothes to the river and beat them against a rock?

Another prime example of MADE IN CHINA.

 

[mrvette]

Yeah we have one to. I am not happy about this. They say to unplug it and not use it till its repaired. We called to get ours repaired and were told that the parts are on back order and they will call us when they get the parts. Thats bullshit!

They wanted me to wait over 10 days for service, I got them down to 7. Meantime what are we supposed to do, take our clothes to the river and beat them against a rock?

Another prime example of MADE IN CHINA.

Big MIC strikes again...

:surrender:

 

[Fuelie74]

Well Maytag isn't any better because they have a huge recall on there dishwashers for bad switches starting fires.
https://repair.maytag.com/prjjck10/default.jsp
I guess you can't buy an appliance that you don't have to worry about burning your house down.

 

[big2bird]

This brings up a point of contention that burns my "professional" ass.
When you heaar of a fire being electrical in nature, remember, 99.9% of these "electrical" fires are "point of use." fires. They are NOT the wiring, they are appliances, plug strips, non"UL" listed equipment, frayed cords, etc.
Just another FYI, check your home owners fire policy.
Sometimes, if it is shown you installed a non "UL" listed appliance, ceiling fan, etc. The fire policy is null and void= no pay , sorry Charlie.

 

[68L71]

Yeah we have one to. I am not happy about this. They say to unplug it and not use it till its repaired. We called to get ours repaired and were told that the parts are on back order and they will call us when they get the parts. Thats bullshit!

They wanted me to wait over 10 days for service, I got them down to 7. Meantime what are we supposed to do, take our clothes to the river and beat them against a rock?

Another prime example of MADE IN CHINA.

How long have you been using it...what's 7 more days...just don't leave it alone. Fire shooting out of the front...that is definetly a womans description unless it uses ether instead of water.

 

[DeeVeeEight]

This brings up a point of contention that burns my "professional" ass.
When you heaar of a fire being electrical in nature, remember, 99.9% of these "electrical" fires are "point of use." fires. They are NOT the wiring, they are appliances, plug strips, non"UL" listed equipment, frayed cords, etc.
Just another FYI, check your home owners fire policy.
Sometimes, if it is shown you installed a non "UL" listed appliance, ceiling fan, etc. The fire policy is null and void= no pay , sorry Charlie.

The report stated that there is a wire that comes loose and shorts to chassis ground initiating what GE calls a "Thermal Event".

I just love that phrase, "Thermal Event", who dreamed that one up? If you screw up you should own up to it and simply state that it could cause a fire.

 

[mrvette]

This brings up a point of contention that burns my "professional" ass.
When you heaar of a fire being electrical in nature, remember, 99.9% of these "electrical" fires are "point of use." fires. They are NOT the wiring, they are appliances, plug strips, non"UL" listed equipment, frayed cords, etc.
Just another FYI, check your home owners fire policy.
Sometimes, if it is shown you installed a non "UL" listed appliance, ceiling fan, etc. The fire policy is null and void= no pay , sorry Charlie.

:shocking: NO doubt you are correct, but you would be amazed how many times I have had to replace outlets/switched because of 'stab' or 'push' wiring, that is nothing but sloppy practice done on production houses....long time ago I had to tell the homeowner to find another electrician for that kitchen project, they insisted on stab wiring, my guys always used the screws....

and My house/development was built in '72-3, and so the bedroom lighting is still that damn aluminum wiring, hate that shit, in my neighbor's house his electrician pulled apart a kitchen outlet and it's where Chuck had his refrig plugged in at....sure enough, burnt but good...allmost caused a fire...

when doing the addition and ALL other work at my house, in went a QO Sq D 200 amp 30 ckt panel, and copper 20 amp wiring everywhere in site...
so all the baths, fans, kitchen, addition, atrium and shop runs off copper now...but my garage lights are a freaking disaster, I really should fix that some day...yawn....:hissyfit::shocking::beer:

 

[big2bird]

This brings up a point of contention that burns my "professional" ass.
When you heaar of a fire being electrical in nature, remember, 99.9% of these "electrical" fires are "point of use." fires. They are NOT the wiring, they are appliances, plug strips, non"UL" listed equipment, frayed cords, etc.
Just another FYI, check your home owners fire policy.
Sometimes, if it is shown you installed a non "UL" listed appliance, ceiling fan, etc. The fire policy is null and void= no pay , sorry Charlie.

:shocking: NO doubt you are correct, but you would be amazed how many times I have had to replace outlets/switched because of 'stab' or 'push' wiring, that is nothing but sloppy practice done on production houses....long time ago I had to tell the homeowner to find another electrician for that kitchen project, they insisted on stab wiring, my guys always used the screws....

and My house/development was built in '72-3, and so the bedroom lighting is still that damn aluminum wiring, hate that shit, in my neighbor's house his electrician pulled apart a kitchen outlet and it's where Chuck had his refrig plugged in at....sure enough, burnt but good...allmost caused a fire...

when doing the addition and ALL other work at my house, in went a QO Sq D 200 amp 30 ckt panel, and copper 20 amp wiring everywhere in site...
so all the baths, fans, kitchen, addition, atrium and shop runs off copper now...but my garage lights are a freaking disaster, I really should fix that some day...yawn....:hissyfit::shocking::beer:

And yet, those situations caused no fire.:noworry:

 

[mrvette]

This brings up a point of contention that burns my "professional" ass.
When you heaar of a fire being electrical in nature, remember, 99.9% of these "electrical" fires are "point of use." fires. They are NOT the wiring, they are appliances, plug strips, non"UL" listed equipment, frayed cords, etc.
Just another FYI, check your home owners fire policy.
Sometimes, if it is shown you installed a non "UL" listed appliance, ceiling fan, etc. The fire policy is null and void= no pay , sorry Charlie.

:shocking: NO doubt you are correct, but you would be amazed how many times I have had to replace outlets/switched because of 'stab' or 'push' wiring, that is nothing but sloppy practice done on production houses....long time ago I had to tell the homeowner to find another electrician for that kitchen project, they insisted on stab wiring, my guys always used the screws....

and My house/development was built in '72-3, and so the bedroom lighting is still that damn aluminum wiring, hate that shit, in my neighbor's house his electrician pulled apart a kitchen outlet and it's where Chuck had his refrig plugged in at....sure enough, burnt but good...allmost caused a fire...

when doing the addition and ALL other work at my house, in went a QO Sq D 200 amp 30 ckt panel, and copper 20 amp wiring everywhere in site...
so all the baths, fans, kitchen, addition, atrium and shop runs off copper now...but my garage lights are a freaking disaster, I really should fix that some day...yawn....:hissyfit::shocking::beer:

And yet, those situations caused no fire.:noworry:

I really need fix that garage situation, it's really piss poor wiring practice....

:friends:

 

[010752]

That "Citizens" state backed insurance that most Floridians must get because they just can't get insurance anywhere else has realy come up with a sly scheme.
Recently in order to get insurance again (all policies are cancelled at the end of term) you have to reapply for a new policy. Part of that is to have a structural inspection (for hurricane) and also a complete electrical inspection. If it's not up to par, including replacing alum wire, you won't get coverage.
It just gives them an easier out for no pay, since the State Certified Inspectors now become liable for any items missed.

 

[mrvette]

That "Citizens" state backed insurance that most Floridians must get because they just can't get insurance anywhere else has realy come up with a sly scheme.
Recently in order to get insurance again (all policies are cancelled at the end of term) you have to reapply for a new policy. Part of that is to have a structural inspection (for hurricane) and also a complete electrical inspection. If it's not up to par, including replacing alum wire, you won't get coverage.
It just gives them an easier out for no pay, since the State Certified Inspectors now become liable for any items missed.

:shocking: I been switching homeowners policies back and forth as much as auto coverage, the vette/Miata are on a collectors policy....but the camper I dunno, we not gotten it road worthy yet, and the Escort they wanted damn 850 bux/year from AARP/Hartford.....they jacked shit outta the Escort now that I sold off the work truck.....so I switched to another company at 550/year, no comp, and it's Florida 10/20 min liability too...bastards....

I not faced any inspections, seems the insurance companies are more worried about my Mansard style roof coming off than the stupid tall oak trees towering all over this hood....I got 4 of them that can do significant damage when they come down....

I would replace all the aluminum wire, except the damn staples in the studs so I can't fish it all without tearing up sheetrock, talk about a PIA< that's IT....of course up/under the eaves of the roof where a rat can't get...lovely...:shocking:

 

[68/70Vette]

We have one of those "commercial style" built in double door stainless steel GE refrigerators. (GE Monogram) It hasn't been particularly reliable. It has an ice maker which my wife insisted on. It's been a big player in the unreliable picture. Anyhow, underneath the refrigerator is a solenoid underneath it to control water flow to the ice maker. One night it sprang a leak and flooded the kitchen floor. The wood parque floor was ruined. Of course the refrigerator warranty period had expired. Anyhow I googled the event, and found out this was a common problem, and their had been a class action law suit, etc. So I contacted GE, and to make a short story, they paid to repair the refrigerator and also paid to replace the floor.

I was happy to not to had to use my homeowners policy to repair the floor. I was told that after you filed a water damage claim with an insurance company they would want to dump you or greatly increase your premiums. Seems like here in California, at least, they've been hit with a lot of mold damage claims which can follow a flooding claim. Don't know how true this is but thankfully, and surprising, GE paid for the floor damage.

 

[mrvette]

All the stupid houses I have rebuilt/renovated from basement through roof, and all the kitchens/baths in Maryland and then here in Florida....I can't imagine any MOLD problems in CALIFORNIA, have to live down LO near the ocean...from my few visits, it's dry as a bone.....In Md. mold was not a issue....a little chlorox on the inside of the affected bathroom walls, hit the naked studs let it dry overnight, seal it up....same here in Florida...done it several times, and one lady just loved the results because she didn't have some allergic reaction, here she was from MIAMI, not NE/Jax area....

As for WOOD in any kitchen area....no way man, not me, torn out too much of that over the years....not one I have even done minor repairs on had escaped water damage/blackening in the joints...total delamination with the sub base material...blistering, or just outright ROT....

I have NO experiences with this China drywall shit.....but hear it's evil....

I"ll take my silly masonry house on a hill for drainage...termites can't eat cinderblock and stone/stucco....

course there IS that Formosa thing....:shocking::evil:

 

[DeeVeeEight]

Update

The GE tech. arrived and installed a little plastic shield with a hole in it for the questionable wire to go through. We both thought it was next to useless.:smash:

 

[mrvette]

The GE tech. arrived and installed a little plastic shield with a hole in it for the questionable wire to go through. We both thought it was next to useless.:smash:

Do I hear a little bird.....???



cheep cheep cheep.....:surrender:

 

[68/70Vette]

A...I can't imagine any MOLD problems in CALIFORNIA,

It's a common problem here. I live about 3 miles from the ocean. One of the problems here is that the older houses (like mine) don't have any insulation in the walls. The outside is stucco, the 2X4 framing with no insulation, and then drywall and plaster. With no insulation, and gas heat in the house, the walls - partcularly behind furniture, wall units, etc, get moist from condensation during the winter. The moisture triggers off the cration of mold growth. I had a neighbor for several years who made his living treating houses for mold. Once mold starts and people develop allergies to it, the only way to get rid of the mold effectively (so I'm told) is to rip off the dry wall, add insulation, and recover with new dry wall. That's how he made his living.

Wall condensation occurs when, during the winter the outside temperature is in the 40's and the interior walls become chilled and condensation occurs. If you go off shore perhaps a mile, and drop a thermometer down about 10 feet under the surface, the water temperature runs 50 to 55 degrees F all year long. Anytime of the year when the wind blows off the ocean onto the land, the temperature plumits and the humidity soars.

I have perhaps two very health big clumps of Spanish moss growing outside. Also in the winter, the north side of my house has noticeable mold growth on the outside. Mold is a problem here. I live in Torrance CA.

 

[mrvette]

A...I can't imagine any MOLD problems in CALIFORNIA,

It's a common problem here. I live about 3 miles from the ocean. One of the problems here is that the older houses (like mine) don't have any insulation in the walls. The outside is stucco, the 2X4 framing with no insulation, and then drywall and plaster. With no insulation, and gas heat in the house, the walls - partcularly behind furniture, wall units, etc, get moist from condensation during the winter. The moisture triggers off the cration of mold growth. I had a neighbor for several years who made his living treating houses for mold. Once mold starts and people develop allergies to it, the only way to get rid of the mold effectively (so I'm told) is to rip off the dry wall, add insulation, and recover with new dry wall. That's how he made his living.

Wall condensation occurs when, during the winter the outside temperature is in the 40's and the interior walls become chilled and condensation occurs. If you go off shore perhaps a mile, and drop a thermometer down about 10 feet under the surface, the water temperature runs 50 to 55 degrees F all year long. Anytime of the year when the wind blows off the ocean onto the land, the temperature plumits and the humidity soars.

I have perhaps two very health big clumps of Spanish moss growing outside. Also in the winter, the north side of my house has noticeable mold growth on the outside. Mold is a problem here. I live in Torrance CA.

Here I figgered Ca. to be like the SW regions, except not as hot....shows what I know....mommy nature is a bitch always ready to mess up plans, mice, men....

:amazed::devil: