Heim joint radius rods

big2bird

big2bird

Charter Member, Founder Bird-Run, Cruise-In Bird-R
Joined
Mar 5, 2008
Messages
5,711
Location
Anaheim, Ca.
So, since I already have the heavy VBandP arms, and the lowering bracket deal, can I just buy the ends to fit? Are the Speedway ones the best? Do I want/need zerks. I just want good pieces down there. Spacers I can have JM make for me.
 
zerks weaken the rod end and grease attracts dirt...so I would say no. cheap rod ends (heim joints) will wear out faster than expensive ones.
 
redvetracr said:
zerks weaken the rod end and grease attracts dirt...so I would say no. cheap rod ends (heim joints) will wear out faster than expensive ones.
Click to expand...

Howard,
Are the Speedway ones good enough, or you got something better? I don't scrimp on safety.:)
 
Baker (precision) should have them. Get the teflon linered ones. 5/8 LH & RH of course. Spindle side eyelet is 5/8, the camber bracket side most likely 1/2" (even smaller if you retain the old cam bolt size w/ square washers to lock the adjustment slot...I think those were 3/8th) You know you can get them w/ a diff sized eye than the shank right?
 
Radial Bearing brand (made in the USA).
Lefthander Chassis:
Radial Bearing 034-10-A8 $26.99
 
Thanks guys. Baker is 30 minutes away. I'll be down that way Thursday.
 
Twin_Turbo said:
Baker (precision) should have them. Get the teflon linered ones. 5/8 LH & RH of course. Spindle side eyelet is 5/8, the camber bracket side most likely 1/2" (even smaller if you retain the old cam bolt size w/ square washers to lock the adjustment slot...I think those were 3/8th) You know you can get them w/ a diff sized eye than the shank right?
Click to expand...


mine are 5/8 on both ends, I wouldn`t use anything smaller
 
Radius rod?? I always called it the lower strut, in the rear?? I presume from the conversation....and so I have had VBP urethane under there for years now, the OEM inserts failed and so I got another pair, that were the rong size for whatever application, but by time I had that figgered out, it was apart, so I found some TOUGH plastic material to line the different diameter with and so forced it all together...been that way for ~8 years now....

but they seem to be getting tired again....

does anyone make RUBBER inserts for the VBP lower rear bars???


:search:
 
redvetracr said:
Twin_Turbo said:
Baker (precision) should have them. Get the teflon linered ones. 5/8 LH & RH of course. Spindle side eyelet is 5/8, the camber bracket side most likely 1/2" (even smaller if you retain the old cam bolt size w/ square washers to lock the adjustment slot...I think those were 3/8th) You know you can get them w/ a diff sized eye than the shank right?
Click to expand...


mine are 5/8 on both ends, I wouldn`t use anything smaller
Click to expand...

The rod eye wth a 1/2 eyelet will be just as strong, it's just that the bolt is a good bit thinner. I use 5/8th on both ends too but it either requires modding the bracket or building something yourself. I'm pretty sure the VB&P smart strut bracket is set up for 1/2 bolts so you'd need a smaller eyelet or reducer bushings.
 
They are not available in a size that will fit. UMI has a new rotojoint out, it's like a JJ but preload adjustable. Problem is, smallest size is 3/4
 
Twin_Turbo said:
redvetracr said:
Twin_Turbo said:
Baker (precision) should have them. Get the teflon linered ones. 5/8 LH & RH of course. Spindle side eyelet is 5/8, the camber bracket side most likely 1/2" (even smaller if you retain the old cam bolt size w/ square washers to lock the adjustment slot...I think those were 3/8th) You know you can get them w/ a diff sized eye than the shank right?
Click to expand...


mine are 5/8 on both ends, I wouldn`t use anything smaller
Click to expand...

The rod eye wth a 1/2 eyelet will be just as strong, it's just that the bolt is a good bit thinner. I use 5/8th on both ends too but it either requires modding the bracket or building something yourself. I'm pretty sure the VB&P smart strut bracket is set up for 1/2 bolts so you'd need a smaller eyelet or reducer bushings.
Click to expand...

I assume grade 8 bolts, or would 6 be more likely to bend then snap?
 
Both the good Speedway heims (kevlar/teflon lined) and the Aurora Heims (PTFE) other than the certified mil spec ones both have a radial static load capacity of around 18,000lbs. Both are reinforced teflon (Teflon is just Dupont's trade name for PTFE)
A grade 5 5/8" bolt has a shear of around 23000lbs and grade 8 around 28000 lbs, but the grade 5 will fail before the grade 8 even starts to yield.
At this point you are suspecting the yield of the forged oem 5/8" shock mount and the stamped strut carrier bolted to the diff.
If still worried, go to all 3/4" heims and bush down the bearing bore for the upright. That will boost you up to around 30,000lbs.

I've got about 5000mi on mine and they are good as new.
Did all the research back then.

MrVette
There are forged rod ends made like the heim joints with male threads but are like the oem ends with rubber and an inner bushing. Forget where I saw them.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest posts

Back
Top