I Need a Liquid Gasket Material That .....

BBShark

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I need to find a liquid gasket material that will seal two machined sufaces (engine vacuum) but will not adhere the two pieces together. Silicone would be ideal except for the adhesive properties. Maximun gap is maybe .010 inches.
 
I need to find a liquid gasket material that will seal two machined sufaces (engine vacuum) but will not adhere the two pieces together. Silicone would be ideal except for the adhesive properties. Maximun gap is maybe .010 inches.

Wassa problem with 'adhesive' properties??? I never had a issue....


what you doing???
 
I need to find a liquid gasket material that will seal two machined sufaces (engine vacuum) but will not adhere the two pieces together. Silicone would be ideal except for the adhesive properties. Maximun gap is maybe .010 inches.

Larry, I'll openly admit my ignorance here (I'm just an electrical guy), but I'm unclear how any liquid can function as a sealer (and remain in place, particularly with a pressure differential) without some sort of adhesive property to resist movement.

(Don't know the surface dimensions or operating temperature range of your project, but I've used wheel bearing grease a couple times to make an airtight seal for temporary projects. YMMV.)
 
If I used silicone on this, I could probably not seperate the two parts for disassembly (one being fairly thin) without damage. I guess I am looking for something that does not cure and remains viscous at ~ 250F. In the past I have used vacuum grease for these kind of seals but that is not an option here.

I have been searching and found Loctite 5203 but have never used it. Hoping someone here has done this.

Edit: The other option might be a foam material that will compress to just about nothing.
 
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I have used loctite surface sealer like that it does stock although it's a lot easier to remove than RTV and especially anaerobic sealer...those 2 would be a no go for you.
 
without knowing what you're trying to do it's hard to come up with ideas ..... how about a simple paper gasket ???

Or grease both surfaces, use RTV gasket maker, assemble both halves, et it cure, unbolt the two halves, take out the "gasket" , degrease, reassemble....

well... you probably considered both of these options already :)
 
Think I found something:

Permatex Form-A-Gasket #2 Sealant is a slow-drying, non-hardening sealant designed for sealing cut gaskets and stamped parts. For use where sealing is more important than adhesion, this sealant allows for easy disassembly if required. Resists common shop fluids and fuels, with a temperature range of -65 degrees Fahrenheit to 400 degrees Fahrenheit
 
Permatex #2 is known as the "non hardening" Permatex... it will however stick to the mating surfaces but it's not an adhesive....
 
That's the stuff I used, thought I used loctite but it was permatex, white can with brush in the cap
 
Search non-hardening pipe dope, some contain Teflon.

Here are two including other.

http://cleanfit.com/blue_monster_stay-soft_ptfe_thread_seal_76023.shtml

http://www.chicagofaucetshoppe.com/SOS_Products_Teflon_Pipe_Dope_p/sos-tfd-4.htm

How bout this!

Hylomar Universal Blue is the world's leading non-setting sealant and gasket compound. It is used by many of the world’s automotive, compressor, heavy equipment and original equipment manufacturers as well as several world class racing teams.

The special polymer formulation is based on the original material developed in conjunction with Rolls-Royce and can withstand the high temperatures and intense vibration found within the most demanding jointing applications. The product is a particularly effective sealant on close fitting large flanges which are subject to extreme vibration, distortion, or joint movement.

Hylomar Universal Blue is resistant to a wide range of fluids, including all industrial fuels, oils, water, brine, air, turbine and piston engine combustion products, water, water/glycol, methanol mixtures, petroleum, synthetic diester lubricating oils, gasoline, lubricating oils, gasoline, kerosene fluids and most fluorocarbon refrigerants.

Hylomar Universal Blue can be used to seal joint faces or threaded parts. It is effective for sealing metal to metal and plastic to plastic. Typical applications include water & oil pumps, instrument inspection covers, cylinder heads, oil sumps, intake manifolds, timing case covers, gearbox & transmission housings and as a coating for pre-formed gaskets.

Hylomar Universal Blue will never harden which offers benefits in assembly and dissassembly. As Hylomar does not cure it offers an unlimited assembly time. This is particularly useful when assembling large components. When the component needs to be dissassembled Hylomar allows the joint to be opened easily.
http://www.hylomarsealant.com/

Ralphy
 
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This is probably done by now, but Hylomar would be the thing to use. Rolls-Royce used it on the gearboxes on their jets. Made of magnesium- just a thin coat of hylomar on the two machined surfaces, and bolt them together. They also came apart pretty easily next time.
 
Tim, I ended up getting the Hylomar Blue but have not used it yet. Looks like exactly what I was looking for.
 
Working at a aircraft hanger you see things/stuff you'll not find just anywhere. The facility I work at is app .8 miles long. Tim's been here. We probably have just about anything your looking for but searching a building so big? Tim probably knows networking fellow employees is the best.

Yesterdays news, Porsche breaks ground next to ATL airport featuring a test track.

1118porcomplex.jpg


[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SZXzBwXBIpg[/ame]




Ralphy
 
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BBShark- when you apply the Hylomar, don't try and lay down a fat bead like you would with RTV- I use an acid brush- those cheap little throw away kind, clip the bristles down to 1/4. Lay a little bit of goo out, then use the end of the brush to spread it out. All spread out, it kind of looks like little dots of different sizes that are all connected. "Stippling" is what it's called.
 
Just a follow up. I ended up using the Hylomar Blue and it worked perfectly. I even dispensed it through a 1mm tube so I could put down a thin bead.
 
from what I "heard" Hylomar sold their name to Permatex... you can by a Permatex product and the original Hylomar (yellow tube, made in the UK).
I used the blue Hylomar in the yellow tube many times. Important: read the fine print: if used on bolted joints (metal to metal) the bolts must be retightened after 20-30 minutes, otherwise you might find them loose the next day .....
 
from what I "heard" Hylomar sold their name to Permatex... you can by a Permatex product and the original Hylomar (yellow tube, made in the UK).
I used the blue Hylomar in the yellow tube many times. Important: read the fine print: if used on bolted joints (metal to metal) the bolts must be retightened after 20-30 minutes, otherwise you might find them loose the next day .....

That's what I found. The stuff squeezed out of the joint quickly, even though I had a very small bead. A couple of days later, more had squeezed out of the joint.
 

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