Lars, or anyone with a good idea

seeleylaker

New member
Joined
Jun 20, 2008
Messages
4
Location
Seeley Lake, MT
'79 L82, 4 speed, stock, 25K original miles

Had a problem with misfiring when the secondaries opened. Adjusted secondary metering rods with help from Lars paper. Problem not solved, but way better. Engine also ran rough at low speed when hot and seemed to be loaded up.

Pulled the carb today and rechecked the secondary rods. Set the float level in accordance with Lars paper. Checked the measurements on the power piston.

What I found:
-The lead-in tip on both main metering rods was slightly bent (like it was so far out of the jet bore it was hitting the jet on the way down)
-The adjustment was bottomed out and the measurement was still off almost 3/16
-Visual inspection of the tower showed the arms weren't bent anywhere close to the same angle
-Bent the arms straight, remeasured, not much change
-Read Lars paper closely and set the top of the power piston about .020 above the plastic collar
-Made what I thought was a logical decision and then bent the arms to produce the correct measurement on both rods. Looking down at the rods in the jets looked much better at this point

The problem:
-Motor started right up but is making what I think are little backfires out both sides. Not big ones, but fairly fast and "crackling"
-Can't get motor to idle less than 1200 rpm (screw not touching the stop)
-This carb has no idle adjustment screws (their position in the casting is filled with a very factory looking metal plug)
-The car is in my shop so it is hard to see smoke because of the lighting. It smells bad and shining a flashlight across the pipes shows what looks like black smoke from both pipes

Any and all ideas appreciated-would like to put the car in a local parade this weekend. Am afraid to at this point.

Jim
 
Lars is much moe knowledgable about these than I EVER will be, but I can tell you the idle adjustments are there. You have a later carb where the idle screws were potted with lead after factory adjutment. They can be removed, but I don't have apicture since I am on the road. The Doug Roe book shows the correct procedure for removal.
 
Thanks! I didn't know that. It sounds like a drill it out operation. These things run so hot, I'm suprised the lead hasn't melted and run out. I'm also thinking I may be able to screw down the power piston and make things better.

Jim

I just pulled the access plug for the power piston adjustment and turned it down 2 turns (1/2 turn at a time) and things are a lot better. Idle is 800 and smooth-zero backfire. Road test next, but probably good enough for the parade.
 
Last edited:
Good news

The secondary spring was previously wound up 3/4 turn. The road test was very good, indeed. It may still need just a little tweaking, but basically it ran great. Everything was fine until it blew a power steering hose while lining up for a parade on the 4th. I cut the belt to the pump and drove it anyway. It was worth it.
 

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