Long Overdue Progress! Rebuild Doors & Latch Mods 10/02/24

Yesterday I partially re-installed the window in the door. 1968 is a 1 year only setup so the sequence is different but I think its in. The most difficult thing was trying to bolt the window channel to the window while its inside the door. Next is the regulator.
 
Both windows are in and working well. After cleaning all the lithium grease off the windows (from greasing the tracks), I noticed some pretty severe scratches on the inside of the glass. I took a look at some of the YT videos on polishing the scratches but there were no videos on polishing the inside concave surface, only the outside.

Anyone here ever done that?
 
Still working on the electric unlatching. Turning my attention to door panels. I am thinking I could use C6 panels to at least complete the center of the panel (including the handles. And fabricate/use the C3 panel perimeter, then "morphing" the two together.

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BBShark said:
I took a look at some of the YT videos on polishing the scratches but there were no videos on polishing the inside concave surface, only the outside.

Anyone here ever done that?
Click to expand...
Looks like guys use a foam pad with some kind of polishing compound. Seems to me for a concave side just use a smaller diameter pad.

Good idea on repurposing c6 door panels. Be interesting to see how that turns out.
 
I found a 3" pad that I think will work.

The C6 panels are similar size to the C3 door. And made in two pieces (black part on top is attached). That will work well so I can get to the latch without taking the entire panel off.

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C3 Panel Stripped:
1730926236914.png
 
BBShark said:
Both windows are in and working well. After cleaning all the lithium grease off the windows (from greasing the tracks), I noticed some pretty severe scratches on the inside of the glass. I took a look at some of the YT videos on polishing the scratches but there were no videos on polishing the inside concave surface, only the outside.

Anyone here ever done that?
Click to expand...
I have polished lots of glass , you want to use the firmest pad, my firm ones are "yellow" and I use the Griots fine glass polish, its not a fast process and use meduim speed 3 on a 5 speed dial and just keep repeating the process. it doesnt remove the scratch put polishes the inside of the scratch so you dont really see it as much. on out side windshiled glass that is really badly road oil and wiper blade contaminated i use a commerical degreaser, then glass cleaner then several applications of the polish then a final glass cleaning. you know you are done when you spray the glass cleaner on and you cant see the wiper tell tale radius.

I dont think the maker of the polish matters much but you want the heavy of the solutions if you have a choice.


interesting door soloution! i like it
 
I cut the center away on the C3 panel and test fitted it to the door panel. Found a couple problems.

The panel is made out of paper pulp like an old fashioned egg carton only thicker. The fit with the door is awful and it needs lots of work to make it work. Also, the original panel and door have these goofy retainers that don't work well at all. I think I might be better off fabricating a perimeter for the panel.

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I would like to use the pins like the C6 panels use.

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The downside of this is that they are not very durable but a lifetime supply of them is maybe $10.
 

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The top of the C3 door panel has a formed metal strip that is embedded in the foam a pulp board backing. The top of the door panel looks like the only thing I might be able to re-use.

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bobs77vet said:
I have polished lots of glass , you want to use the firmest pad, my firm ones are "yellow" and I use the Griots fine glass polish, its not a fast process and use meduim speed 3 on a 5 speed dial and just keep repeating the process. it doesnt remove the scratch put polishes the inside of the scratch so you dont really see it as much. on out side windshiled glass that is really badly road oil and wiper blade contaminated i use a commerical degreaser, then glass cleaner then several applications of the polish then a final glass cleaning. you know you are done when you spray the glass cleaner on and you cant see the wiper tell tale radius.

I dont think the maker of the polish matters much but you want the heavy of the solutions if you have a choice.


interesting door soloution! i like it
Click to expand...

Door glass scratches. I got all the materials that (I thought) needed. It was a complete waste of time and a giant mess. No joy with removing scratches from the glass.

The cerium oxide I ordered was really diluted with water. It is supposed to be mixed to peanut butter consistency. Also, you cant remove scratches without sanding. Waiting for my sanding disks and cerium oxide powder to show up.

The door panels are not a priority at this point but I think I have a plan.
 
BBShark said:
Door glass scratches. I got all the materials that (I thought) needed. It was a complete waste of time and a giant mess. No joy with removing scratches from the glass.

The cerium oxide I ordered was really diluted with water. It is supposed to be mixed to peanut butter consistency. Also, you cant remove scratches without sanding. Waiting for my sanding disks and cerium oxide powder to show up.

The door panels are not a priority at this point but I think I have a plan.
Click to expand...
it will be interesting to see if you can remove the scratch with your products , or if you are just polishing the inside of the scratch. i never had any luck removing the scratch just in the polishing of the inside of the scratch to make it less noticeable.
 
I have the stuff to do this on hand, I might start the sanding today. The only concern I have right now is a warning from people who have done this is: Don't do this if the scratches are within 2 inches of the edge. Mine are all the way to the edge and are worse there than anywhere. The thinking is that one side of the laminated glass will get hotter than the other side and delaminate. So I am going to take my time. I have one year only convertible glass and if I have to replace it, that will suck a lot.

Getting these doors working has been way more work than I thought it would be. Anxious to get this behind me. After polishing the windows I need to install the hardtop, put in new seals and adjust the glass.

Here is a picture of the scratches (made a lot more visible because they are filled with polishing compound):
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First sanding with 240 grit and 3" sander. I got most of the scratches out, maybe 90-95%. Took an hour but I went slow. Picture is not great. Looks like taking a picture of a ghost.

240 grit
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Went to 400 grit next and that worked so well, I couldn't get a picture of it. I went all the way up to 2000 and ready for polish. First I have to do the other side.
 
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I did the drivers side this week. It was in much worse shape with pretty deep marks at the edge of the window. I started with 120 grit and that got most of it out.

Yesterday I polished both sides. The drivers side at the top (where I had deep scratches), is polished now but I sanded enough that there are 2 areas that have optical distortions. But they are clear, so I'm going to call that good enough.

On to installing the latch actuators.
 
BBShark said:
I did the drivers side this week. It was in much worse shape with pretty deep marks at the edge of the window. I started with 120 grit and that got most of it out.

Yesterday I polished both sides. The drivers side at the top (where I had deep scratches), is polished now but I sanded enough that there are 2 areas that have optical distortions. But they are clear, so I'm going to call that good enough.

On to installing the latch actuators.
Click to expand...

outstanding!!!
 
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