Motor home cooling/heating....

mrvette

mrvette

Phantom of the Opera
Joined
Mar 24, 2008
Messages
15,194
Location
NE Florida
Some of you maybe know I working on a old motor home, and so when I have a land line 110v available, how many BTU output does it take to cool a 20' Class C M/H..?? with 14' of aluminum behind the driver???

figger 14x8x8 on the size..plus overhead and bucket seats...

need size/figger on a heat HVAC unit....

right now, I thinking of taking a very old room a/c unit and just temp install it in a unfinished/uninsulated shell of a MH and see what happens in the afternoon 105f sun....

but some intelligent information would be appreciated.....I did a search and found nothing but advertising....

:amazed::quote::surrender:
 
SmokinBBC said:
Marine units might give you an idea.

http://www.wrightmarine.net/4952.html
Click to expand...

good site, but not so sure as to the comparison....on the one hand the water under the hull is much cooler, on the other hand, there is NO insulation, overhead or on the sides....

and a boat has more open air breathing spaces...don't seal so good....

but it gives me something to go on anyway....I know that 6500 btu capacity window unit I have will cool a 300' room addtion, plus the MBR and bath...but that a house with concrete floor and tight windows and insulated walls....

the house a/c packed it in while we on vacation some time ago...so I found out the hard way....

makes me wonder about just buying another room a/c.....
 
window units don't seem to work good when plugged into a extension cord. Not really sure why or maybe my extension cords just suck is all.
 
Here's what the state has required since the early 90's. They even sent me a free program years ago in DOS.
You can pull your hair out with this worksheet known as Manual J calcs.
http://www.acca.org/speedsheet/

Or almost all good a/c contractors have it in software form, the equip manufacturers even have their own version.

If you look thru the worksheet, you will see that insulation, window shading, heat reflectivity, orientation to the sun, etc etc all make drastic differences.

But my guess is a 5000 btu with half ass insulation and shading etc, will be more than enough. The new 110v units work like a residential unit, the fans even turns off and they are super quiet.

Good luck
 
I have this 28' converted motor home in Florida with a 12000 btu Sharp in the very back, its capable of freezing you out until 90s come around. I think 6500 would do just fine if you let it run and keep the blinds pulled.
007.jpg
 
Thanks guys....anyone know anything about a SOLEUS 9000 btu mini split??

run a 3/8 suck line, and a 1/4 liq line flare to boot, and stick the inside unit on the wall....about 3'x1'x7" and then it's a heat pump to boot...on the wall is 30 lbs....

outside unit is about 32x13x22 or so.....it would fit nice under the frame, outside, behind the driver's seat....80 lbs....

ebay outta NY somewhere....their site says 400 plus 100 shipping....

ebay lists same unit at currently 300 with same 100 ship.....

but does anyone know jack about split units in general, much less for M/H use??

looks like a nice way to rubber isolate that thing, and it gets ground air to the outside unit, either way, and with a blast plate, the road grime stays off....

:clobbered:
 
DWncchs said:
You don't want to use a roof unit ?
Click to expand...

NO, too much windage, noise, expense, leaks, mounting, service issues, wiring, then the plastic tops get broken too damn easy....

I tossed the one on there off just after buying the thing, just about the first thing to go....

Looking at that split system...found a dealer here in Jax and maybe I can go look at the concept of that split system, see the outside unit, and go from there....rubber mounted under the frame...hopefully, complete with scatter sheilds and lines to the blower unit up high....heat and cooling....

:nuts:
 
I've been where you are in rebuilding old motor homes , make sure you keep in mind the amount of time and money going in will produce a satisfactory return. Its easy to get caught up in the project.
 
DWncchs said:
I've been where you are in rebuilding old motor homes , make sure you keep in mind the amount of time and money going in will produce a satisfactory return. Its easy to get caught up in the project.
Click to expand...

:trumpet: Tell me about it, found that out quickly....if the engine was not in such NEW condition, I doubt I would have done anything with it....just scrap it for the metal/parts....
but this is a junkyard project, wheels were 16.5" and two split rims in back our of 4, and in front too, hard to find anyone here to mess with them, must be 50 tire dealers within a mile of my house too....

so I have Ford rear brakes, with larger swept area and same wheel cylinder part number on the rear, front disc, and I adapted it all over to the GM axle....8000 GVW on the door jamb....scrapped all the inside stuff including a antique water tank, galvanized huge thing must have been 60 gallons, larger than the 40 plastic we going in with....keeping a eye on weight...got a deal at Home Despot on 1/4" Luan ply for the interior...turns out they honor ACE hardward coupons...so a couple Mint Mags and 20 bux off 100 or more, so that's 20%....two purchases and we have insulation and ply enough to redo the entire interior....17 sheets worth....:trumpet:

the one part that has really gotten expensive is that 700 tranny, got close to a grand in parts for that thing, and not done yet....last winter's project when the temps were 30f.....:rolleyes:

:mobeer::mobeer:
 
The minisplits work really well for areas that don't need ductwork.
If you are planning on mounting horizontal underneath, be aware that the compressor doesn't like that, you will slug it.
 
010752 said:
The minisplits work really well for areas that don't need ductwork.
If you are planning on mounting horizontal underneath, be aware that the compressor doesn't like that, you will slug it.
Click to expand...

Unsure what you mean by that, but not a issue now, can't justify spending 4-500 bux for a split, plus that under mount trick for the comp/cond/fans...then the plumbing...not worth it....we have a 21.5W x 19H hatch door in the side now, and so today found a 230 bux....250 with tax 12000 btu unit at Sam's Club....dimensions will fit fine, even with a track to push it in/out of the door....it's a natural fit...easy install.... and a couple space heaters for 20 bux, thank you China...will heat the joint fine...IF needed, and they have NO weight to them, much less bulk...

:beer::beer:
 
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