new heater shut off valve is not working

Belgian1979vette

Belgian1979vette

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 4, 2008
Messages
1,707
Location
Koersel/Belgium
Ok, my old valve had some rustholes in the tube, it was still usuable as long as I put the tube far enough on the inlet tube, but it was really time to replace.
Since I had to put in a longer tube to clear the airboxes, this was the time to do it.

Worst case scenario : the damn thing doesn't work at all. I have vacuum going to it, but no heat...Did i just get zipped again ?

Who sells a good valve ?
 
Shit, I battled this so long ago, I can't remember the valve I wound up putting in FINALLY, all I can do is describe it, Black plastic with 4 water ports and ONE vacuum port, so what happens is the heater core is totally isolated from the water flow, as the valve flips and totally bypasses the entire circuit....unlike the two water hose, which attempts to cut off the flow on one end and leaving the other hose open to some water circulation

are you sure that your temp control flaps under the dash are indeed working???

I gave up on all that old BS and installed a junkyard servo motor that positions the air flow flap in the ducts, to the desired position, I cheated with a custom control panel and junkyard parts....putting in a DPDT switch to to put the temp flap motor on open/closed with a center off normal position on the switch (spring mechanical) and on the flapper motor itself was a Potentiometer, that I cut the resistance out of, so to light a LED of RED for HOT, or BLUE for cold at the extremes.....hope this makes sense....

anything else means the heat flapper is in some compromise position.....

which is fine for ME, being in Florida....:cool::friends:
 
I got a plastic (actually some form of high-temp fiber-filled polymer) replacement at a chain parts store. It works fine, and it's probably 10 years old now. Looks nothing like the original sheet metal piece of junk, but it works.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest posts

Back
Top