Power Steering Parts

pcf_mark

pcf_mark

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 22, 2008
Messages
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I am going to be servicing a 70 Corvette with all original power steering parts. Upon examination the pump and hoses are leaking pretty bad. The ram may also be leaking. Looking at this as a once and done top down fix who makes the best stuff? All my Corvette experience has been with manual steering. The system is working properly.

The car is in very solid shape and has been stored indoors it's whole life. Should I attempt to rebuild the pump, ram and valve or go new/rebuilt? I have heard some very bad news on the rebuilt parts.
 
Get a NEW valve, the rebuilt ones leak, the rebuild kit is not worth it either. I've had them leaking after a rebuild because the center spacer plate is bent or has a groove and it's not included. I would buy it from van steel, always had good luck with them. Friendly and they went out of their way to get me the stuff I needed. You can also contact Mike Dyer, tracdogg. He can set you up too.
 
You should look into the grand am rack and pinion conversion. I haven't done it, but I want to. From the looks of things it might be in the same price range too.
 
Twin_Turbo said:
Steeroids? IMO Only 1 word for it, junk!
Click to expand...

I think they screwed up the design pretty bad, BUT, as most of us know, I did my own rack before they came out with any kits, went on the road winter 02 and been there since....without any troubles, knock on wood....

i'ts fairly simple to do, BUT needs welding talent from someone, not rocket science, my setup bolts in place, mainly because I don't weld, second reason is I wanted to prove the system out before anything considered permanent....

:hi:
 
This is a friend's car so I am staying with the original system. Does the ram need to be rebuilt/replaced or the control valve the major culprit? The pump is toast - it is leaking from the front seal and the seal around the body. I don't want any problems later...
 
Check out Lonestar Caliper.

lonestar.jpg
 
pcf_mark said:
This is a friend's car so I am staying with the original system. Does the ram need to be rebuilt/replaced or the control valve the major culprit? The pump is toast - it is leaking from the front seal and the seal around the body. I don't want any problems later...
Click to expand...

I put a rebuilt cylinder on a vet before and it leaked. I rebuilt another one for my current ride.......it leaks. Main cause of leak seams to be pitted chrome shafts. I might try a new one next time.
 
agent20x said:
Twin_Turbo said:
Steeroids? IMO Only 1 word for it, junk!
Click to expand...

I wasnt talking about steeroids. I was refering to the grand am rack and pinion conversion that a lot of people have done at apparently a low cost and great results.
Click to expand...


That's what steeroids is, they took the old post w/ drawings by Idar Andersson who used a saab rack (same as grand am rack) and built/designed the bracket.
Steeroids re-engineered it all to be more flimsy and put a huge 1500+ $ price tag on maybe a couple hundred worth in parts(racks are remanuf!)
 
Back to me! Who has a good rebuilt or new pump, control valve and cylinder?
 
I am starting to work on this car and after driving it feels like the power steering has a lot of play. When sitting in the garage with the car off the connection to the wheels feels very solid and direct. With the car running it gets mushy and seems to have a lot more play.

Bad control valve?
 
I thought the valve was good because it did not appear to be leaking. When tightening everything back up after re-sealing the pump and putting on new hoses I had to tighten the nut from the control valve to the putman arm. When I pull on this I can see the stud in the valve move a fair amount before the valve moves. I assume this is my play?
 
pcf_mark said:
I thought the valve was good because it did not appear to be leaking. When tightening everything back up after re-sealing the pump and putting on new hoses I had to tighten the nut from the control valve to the putman arm. When I pull on this I can see the stud in the valve move a fair amount before the valve moves. I assume this is my play?
Click to expand...

Yes, like anything else mechanical, they can wear out, or maybe can be snugged up a bit, but I forget how....

I can't help but feel the valve being there is a slop in the steering directly at the wheels...like a worn tie rod end....

but when the valve is incorporated into the INPUT shaft wether recirc ball/Jeep or a rack, the input slop is reduced by the steering ratio...typical 12-1 ....

I have no way to actually PROVE my position in the above, but it makes sense and seems to be proven to myself pretty good on my own car....

:tomato:
 
I hope this is my last power steering related question. Once I put the new control valve on what is the best way to fill the system to avoid air entrapment?

Do it with the wheels off the ground, engine off and move the wheels back and forth to force the air out and top off as necessary? Seems like the pump would break the air into a million little bubbles.

I KNOW I have air in my personal car and it is getting better but I would like to avoid it on this car if possible.
 
You are exactly correct! You want to get as much air out of the system BEFORE you start the engine. Otherwise, it takes a lot more time to get the air out after it has been whipped to a froth as it passes through a pump that is rotating with the engine on.

Jack up the front wheels. Rotate the steering wheel full lock to full lock a couple dozen times. This operation will actually pump fluid throughout the system with the engine off. Large air bubbles can be seen rising up through the fluid in the pump reservoir. Refill the reservoir as required during the process. Refill one last time, let the car down and start the engine. Rotate the steering wheel full lock to full lock a few more times. Don't hold at full lock for more than just a few seconds.

Check for leaks. Refill as necessary to the COLD mark on the capstick. Go for a short 10 mile drive. You should be good to go.

If there is still a minor amount of noise. Let the car sit overnight; check the fluid level and then go for another short drive. You should be good to go.

Jim
 
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