Radiator leak

[vette427sbc]

I have a leak at the filler neck of my radiator. Any suggestions on how I should go about fixing this? Torch and solder (I only have a MAP gas torch. No oxy/acetylene)? Epoxy? JB weld ?

 

[greg75vette]

You might be able to drive the car to a rad shop and have the braze it right on the car. It's worth a shot, but I'm not positive they can do that.

 

[010752]

Mapp is plenty for the neck. Brass, I assume.
Use the older less tinny solder, Has much lower temp.

 

[vette427sbc]

You might be able to drive the car to a rad shop and have the braze it right on the car. It's worth a shot, but I'm not positive they can do that.

The only place around here that did that kind of stuff went out of business. I called another shop and they told me I had to have the rad out of the car. :suicide: Not trying to do that now

Mapp is plenty for the neck. Brass, I assume.
Use the older less tinny solder, Has much lower temp.

I tried the mapp today- I couldnt get the solder to flow right. It just wouldnt stick, and the brass wouldnt stay hot enough for more than a few seconds. I went with some JB weld We'll see how it holds up. If it doesnt, Ill just grind it off and try to find some old school guy whos not afraid to braze it in the car.

 

[big2bird]

I called another shop and they told me I had to have the rad out of the car. :suicide: Not trying to do that now

That is the way it has been done for 100 years.:wink:

 

[damoroso]

I'd bite the bullet, pull it, get it done right and have it boiled out at the same time. Then you're starting clean and know exactly what you've got....

 

[68/70Vette]

I use pure ethylene glycol in my C3's. Pure ethylene glycol boils at a really high temp; 473 degrees F. Since it's boiling temp is so high, the cooling system nevers pressurizes. I drove my DD 97 Tbird for almost a year with a crack in the cooling system, with no pressure the leak was very slow and manageable.

Pure ethylene glycol as a coolant is not new. All the WWII liquid cooled engines used pure ethylene glycol. Also army tanks that used the V12 liquid cooled aircraft engines used pure ethylene glycol.

My 68 with a ZZ4 runs about 180 degrees F.

With no water in the cooling system, aluminum radiator corrosion will not be a problem. Also, no rust inside the engine block. My 68 still has the original factory heater core. As for specific relevancy with this thread, I believe that if you use pure ethylene glycol, you wont be bothered by corroding rust filled radiators.

 

[010752]

Don't know what went wrong but propane with the right tip is worth 3400° F and Mapp even more 3600°F

For even 50/50 solder, it needs less than 800°F

Best is to sweat off the neck from the tank. heat and wipe off all excess solder, clean with ss brush and then muriatic acid to shiney bare metal, reinsert neck, heat both sides and let the solder flow. Use an acid based flux.
Protect the rest from heat with wet towels.

 

[enkeivette]

If you are crying about having to pull a radiator, you shouldn't own a 40 year old car. Buy yourself a nice reliable Yaris. :hissyfit:

Sure it's not the cap?

 

[saudivette]

No offence but if you're not real handy with a torch and solder, take it out of the car and get it done by the shop.

There's very little temperature difference in successfully applying solder to your joint and melting all the solder on the whole damn radiator! You fix your leak but introduce 20 more :waxer:

It's definitely a knack, is all I'm saying :idea:

 

[mrvette]

No offence but if you're not real handy with a torch and solder, take it out of the car and get it done by the shop.

There's very little temperature difference in successfully applying solder to your joint and melting all the solder on the whole damn radiator! You fix your leak but introduce 20 more :waxer:

It's definitely a knack, is all I'm saying :idea:

YUP, and don't ask how I know that....:shocking:prrtt:

 

[saudivette]

No offence but if you're not real handy with a torch and solder, take it out of the car and get it done by the shop.

There's very little temperature difference in successfully applying solder to your joint and melting all the solder on the whole damn radiator! You fix your leak but introduce 20 more :waxer:

It's definitely a knack, is all I'm saying :idea:

YUP, and don't ask how I know that....:shocking:prrtt:

Me neither :amazed: