Rag joint replacement

JPhil

Huh?
Joined
Mar 26, 2008
Messages
1,360
Location
Loveland, Colorado, USA
Quality rag joints for the steering column to box connection are near impossible to find. People have used universal joints but these too have their problems. Has anybody looked into using some kind of CV type joint, like a double carden? It wouldn't alleviate misalignment problems but I would think it would be better than a simple universal joint.

Thoughts? Ideas? Experience?
 
I don't see what the problem with a good quality U-joint would be. The Flaming River joints that I'm currently using on my rack conversion seem to be some really nice quality pieces .... I would think that maybe you have to shorten the steering shaft if you want to use a U-joint with the stock box and stock steering shaft....
 
OK, so I will use a u-joint, from Flaming River. I just called them, he needs to know the distance between the column shaft and the box shaft and their dimensions. He also seemed to think, just off the top of his head, that I may need to shorten the column, probably by cutting it, and use two u-joints with a shaft between them.
That sounds like it's a bit more involved than I'd like to get into right now. All I plan on doing is pull the box, send it to Gary Ramadi for a rebuild, and reinstall it with a new coupling--my rag joint is torn.
Mine is a '73 SBC coupe with power steering & brakes, collapsable (I assume) tilt/telescoping column.
I know others have done this u-joint conversion. Is there anything special I should know before I dive into it? Any info that may help it go easier? Do I really need to cut the column and use double u-joints?
 
OK, so I will use a u-joint, from Flaming River. I just called them, he needs to know the distance between the column shaft and the box shaft and their dimensions. He also seemed to think, just off the top of his head, that I may need to shorten the column, probably by cutting it, and use two u-joints with a shaft between them.
That sounds like it's a bit more involved than I'd like to get into right now. All I plan on doing is pull the box, send it to Gary Ramadi for a rebuild, and reinstall it with a new coupling--my rag joint is torn.
Mine is a '73 SBC coupe with power steering & brakes, collapsable (I assume) tilt/telescoping column.
I know others have done this u-joint conversion. Is there anything special I should know before I dive into it? Any info that may help it go easier? Do I really need to cut the column and use double u-joints?

You won't have to cut the column to shorten it, the shaft at the end of the column is collapsable, just hit it gently with a hammer.
Should be all you need to make the U-joint work.
 
You need the spline count on the box and the steering shaft, I don't remember if the two are the same.... collapsing the steering shaft should give you plenty room to install the U-joint and yes, one is enough.... I'll hit my steering column tonight, if all goes well I'll be able to tell how much it moves ....
 
How's the quality? That rag joint I see at AutoZone in their "help section" for $8 doesn't really give me a warm and fuzzy..... I've never took one out of the packaging so my opinion is only based on the other junk in their "help section".....
I guess it's worth giving it a try, if it's garbage you only lost $8 and if it works it works....
 
Thanks for the specs & part number.

From what I've heard from trustworthy people, the replacement rag joints available today are junk, or poor quality at best. This is the kind of job I only want to do once and I really don't want an $8 Taiwan coupling in my steering gear.

I will have to get a little farther into it, but just eyeballing it my column shaft and box shaft look to be a tiny bit offset from each other. That was why I inquired about a double u-joint.

Jeez, why didn't I think of doing this when I had the engine out for 5 months?
 
How's the quality? That rag joint I see at AutoZone in their "help section" for $8 doesn't really give me a warm and fuzzy..... I've never took one out of the packaging so my opinion is only based on the other junk in their "help section".....
I guess it's worth giving it a try, if it's garbage you only lost $8 and if it works it works....

Used them before, they have thicker ones to choose from.
The long headed bolts are the safety feature anyway, just as they work now with the old failed one. I even use the original bolts etc.

http://www.finddormanhelp.com/Search?q=steering coupler disc
 

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