rear body mount difference 74 & 82

JeffP1167

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Were the rear mounts or the area where the rear floor (height) different from a 74 to a 82? After converting my 82 with a 74 rear clip I have door gap issues at the rear 1/4 panels and I was curious if this could be the issue.

The door jamb area is flush against the "B" pillar, I know the bird cage to be rust free. I used new 82 body mount cushions, so I;m wondering if the height of the mount is different from 74 to 83 and causing the rear body to be lower then it should be and causing my door gap issue.
 
Interesting, I looked in my 82 assembly manual and it shows 1 for each #4 body mount. I don't recall ever seeing these when the car was taken apart & when it was a T-Top it had the bad passenger door gap as well. Are the body rubber mounts specific to there location? Perhaps this is my only problem the shims are missing and wrong rubber cushions in the rear. the passenger side is the worst side gap wise, the drivers door seems to line up good.

I remember you saying the doors are shaved when assembled, my issue is from the bottom to the top the gap gets progressively wider and it in turn affects how the door main weatherstrip seals in the door jamb.

I recall my wife always complaining about a draft coming from the door even when it was a T-Top so maybe the shims were removed at sometime and thats all I need to cure this problem.
 
I found these on ebay, If these are what they were originally like, I know for a fact there were none ever removed from the passenger side #4 mount or the drivers side.

I basically have about a 1/2 inch gap at the top areas of my door on the passenger side. The drivers side seems fine though, I will try one of these shim kits and see if that helps.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...2ffc123c0&rvr_id=&ua=WVF?&itemid=350332356431
 
I found this picture on the web, my 82 assembly manual says only 1 shim was installed at the #4 mount. Or could there have been more when the car was built?

I know for a fact there are none there right now, the rubber cushions are all that is mounted there.

vemp_0112_22_zchevrolet_corvette_bo.jpg
 
The convertible conversion could be contibuting to this also. The rear body mounts are right behind the deck lift springs and that whole area was probably grafted in from an early car. The early cars used shorter solid body mounts.
 
The convertible conversion could be contibuting to this also. The rear body mounts are right behind the deck lift springs and that whole area was probably grafted in from an early car. The early cars used shorter solid body mounts.

this is how the car was converted, the rear clip was grafted to the 82's floor right at the wheel well area due to damage when I bought the car. So yes where the hinges for the decklid are is 74-75.

I used replacement 82 rubber mounts, I'm also curious if these rubber mounts are different based on mount location and this is also a problem.

Being the car always had this gap issue and draft maybe after it was hit these shims were never installed. I will look at the car later today and see what I really did when I put it back together. I have a very good feeling the shims will be the issue. I might have to glass a little to make the gap perfect though but I think the shims if replaced will take up much of this gap.

Would it be best to mess with the #3 mount shims to help close the gap?

post up pics of your rear door gaps and how wide this gap is supposed to be at the front and rear of the doors.
 
the solid mounts were only used on earlier cars, not the years you got your parts from.

Shim it to close the gap if the gap opens up the higher you go.
 
I found this picture on the web, my 82 assembly manual says only 1 shim was installed at the #4 mount. Or could there have been more when the car was built?

I know for a fact there are none there right now, the rubber cushions are all that is mounted there.

vemp_0112_22_zchevrolet_corvette_bo.jpg


Okay, so I looked at the car. I installed the rubber cushions opposite of how they are in this picture and there are no shims on either side. So installing them right and shimming much of the gap should dissapear right?
 
Shortly after noticing the rear #4 mounts were toast, I got some new ones on this '72 vert...I tried playing with jacks, raising/lowering and all that shit to get the doors to line up better, but nothing moved, except to crack the lower rear end down lo...fixed that, gave up and last year in the paint job attempt, I ground down the doors/body to get equal gaps....

for some reason, that rear section did not want to move, and yes I had all the bolts loose....

BTW, I filled the new steel buckets with resins and sealant...not going anywhere soon....

:amazed:
 
well, I found two 3/8th's inch spacers (not sure if that is there width) but anyways by putting them on now the passenger side door gap is like the drivers door. and uniform all the way. I think I can do what stinger12 did and close the gap 1/8th inch and have nice gaps again. This is one thing that has annoyed me about the conversion for like 7 years. both doors now are at about a hair over an 1/4 inch front and rear. I am not sure what the original gaps were but being it is uniforn now on both doors maybe this is how it should be.

Either way though a little glass can make the gaps real tight.

The passenger door also shuts a lot nicer now as well.
 

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