rear suspension experts wanted!

[Aaron1]

i put my t arms in and cannot get the same thickness in shims back in as what was taken out.
the original DI was .510, new .510
orig DO was.280 new its .290, however if i put all .510 of the DI in i can get all but .055 in the DO position.
the orig PI was .500 new its .510
PO was.300, new .290 however i can only get .230 in if i put all of PI in.
my "new" means what shims i have to work with that gets me closes to original shim thickness.

PO=passenger outside
PI=pass inside
DI=drivers inside
DO=drivers outside

any advise?

thanks!

aaron1

 

[big2bird]

The new bushing is probably thicker. The idea of the shims is to align the T/A's, and fill the voids. As long as there is no extra space, don't worry about all of them going back in. Take it in to alignment as soon as your done. They will rearrange the shim packs anyhow. Bring extras. Not too many guys have these laying around anymore.

 

[MYBAD79]

I agree, the new bushing is not the same thickness as the old one. Very likely the old bushing compressed over time....

Shims: use the stainless shims and make sure they have a slot and not a hole. The ones with the hole ("correct" style) require you to remove the bolt for every shim change - the alignment guys are going to charge you an arm and a leg....

 

[Aaron1]

yes, i replaced both t arms with new bushings. i have the ss shims with slot. i supose that there could be many different thickness in shim kits, are there certain sizes that i should have?
thanks for everyones help.
aaron1

 

[TimAT]

The shims are used to adjust the toe in/out. You can do the rough adjustment with a measuring tape and get close. Your alignment shop can do the final

 

[68/70Vette]

Can any alighnment shop do this work? I'd think that you need soemeone experienced with C3 alighnments.

On my cars, I paint the interior "pockets," where the shims and mounting bolt go, light grey . Makes it a little easier to look in there with a flashlight.