Removable Rear Window Conversion

DC3

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 9, 2008
Messages
332
Location
Lubbock Texas
I want to convert my '73 to a removable rear window. Does anyone know of a definitive list of parts that are necessary for the conversion? I see that some new parts are available but I suspect there are others that may have to be obtained used.

I know I need a new glass and weatherstrip, two latches, two guides, and two guide pins. I'd also like to add the storage tray or fabricate something that will work.

If anyone has a removable rear window and could post pics or pages from the AIM, I would appreciate it.

Thanks,

DC
 
I am also doing this conversion on my 77. So far I only have the window frame. In addition to the parts you have listed you also need the 68-72 interior roof panel trim and the plastic wedge guides which go under the wedge plates. The tray is not available new I believe. Everything else is available new, Paragon seems to have the best prices.
http://willcoxcorvette.com/instructions/68-72_rear_window_pictures.pdf

Thanks for the link. I had forgotten about the window frame. I came across a couple of links today which should help:

http://www.corvettefaq.com/c3/RearWindow.pdf

http://www.europeancorvette.com/html/removable_rear_window.htm

I'm either going to have to come up with a tray or fabricate something. I just don't see being able to lay the window down in the back.

On the first link above, the parts list shows "weatherstrip screws". I couldn't find these on the AIM diagram you provided. Any idea where they go?

This is not a cheap project. I am needing a new rear window due to substantial scratches and I thought I would upgrade to a removable window instead. My price list is already north of $800 and I haven't even gotten to the tray yet. Ouch. Although I really want to do this, it may have to wait on some higher priority projects.

DC
 
I've had a removable window and frame laying in my shop for a year now. I just can't seem to justify the cost, especially since I'll probably break a perfectly good original rear defrost window getting it out. That sealer I got from Eckler's is the stickiest crap I've ever seen. I don't see how I can get the window out without breaking it!
 
I've had a removable window and frame laying in my shop for a year now. I just can't seem to justify the cost, especially since I'll probably break a perfectly good original rear defrost window getting it out. That sealer I got from Eckler's is the stickiest crap I've ever seen. I don't see how I can get the window out without breaking it!

You might consider asking a glass shop to remove it for you. They might have some special tools or tricks and might not charge much if it can be done easily. I agree, removal looks like a PITA to me. I won't have to be as concerned about breakage since my rear window is not in the greatest of shape anyway.

DC
 
have just emailed a mate in west aussie....he fitted a kit to his 77.... said it was easy, he did it himself.
 
I am also doing this conversion on my 77. So far I only have the window frame. In addition to the parts you have listed you also need the 68-72 interior roof panel trim and the plastic wedge guides which go under the wedge plates. The tray is not available new I believe. Everything else is available new, Paragon seems to have the best prices.
http://willcoxcorvette.com/instructions/68-72_rear_window_pictures.pdf

D Black, welcome to the motley crew of the Flying Dutchmen.....

post some pix of the ride, so we can all gawk a bit.....

:beer::beer:
 
well paint me green and call me gumby...bazz the bloke who done his77 rear window is now a member...
 
well paint me green and call me gumby...bazz the bloke who done his77 rear window is now a member...

That's great. Welcome to both of you. Maybe he'll post some pics of his window install or at least some comments. I've pretty much completed the list of parts I am going to need and plan to order soon. So far, everything is available new except the upper latch bezels, and the storage tray. I can probably make some type of storage tray but the latch bezels are going to have to be found used.

DC
 
well paint me green and call me gumby...bazz the bloke who done his77 rear window is now a member...

That's great. Welcome to both of you. Maybe he'll post some pics of his window install or at least some comments. I've pretty much completed the list of parts I am going to need and plan to order soon. So far, everything is available new except the upper latch bezels, and the storage tray. I can probably make some type of storage tray but the latch bezels are going to have to be found used.

DC

Hi Ya DC3
I,m no expert but heres what I did

I got all the bits (used ) from EBay USA , except the latches

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...0398212065&sspagename=STRK:MEWAX:IT&viewitem=


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...0318385562&sspagename=STRK:MEWAX:IT&viewitem=

It cost me around $300 all up for everything , including postage to Oz.
But that was a few years ago now , those storage trays were going for around $60-$80 then .

The hardest part for me was putting the new seal on.
to get the old glass out I just bent an old kitchen knife and used that to scrape out the super sticky sealer while gently pulling the glass back , take your time .Then use lots of wax,n, grease remover to clean it all off

one thing I did do first was take out both seats and all the trim to give a free access to work .this was before i took the side panels off,you can see the areas where the top latches go ,its all still in the molding

018.jpg

these are NEARLY all the bits that are attached to the car, the panel is a 72 ,it has the steel pin mounting(on right side ) which locks in the female section rivetted to the 68-72,s(?) , my 77 didnt have it , the hole is there but no locking bit , i ground these bits off

If you use the bezel on your 77 piece then cutting out the area for the latch would be fine I suppose ,just be aware that I found an outline on my 77 panel that seemed to be a cut line for this , but when compared it wasnt right .

022.jpg

across the bottom of the 77 window sill, well the square hole for the pins are still there, next to it is the screw hole for the 77 bezel, this is just before i fibreglassed the hole over (and put some reinforcement across the area underneath ),the seal is in and then time to test fit so as to drill the smaller holes for the plastic/ stainless guides and reinforcement.

77vette013.jpg

now this bit , i found purely by luck , its a reinforcement for the top latch , my 69 has metal behind the fibreglass to strengthen , i was going to make something up similar when I checked out my old wreck I had (74) which had a retro window done. the four drilled holes were put in by the P O which had caused the glass to crack up ,I just put it in as is and let the two mounting bolts hold it. Unfortunately it has no markings of any kind on it

77vette020.jpg

77vette021.jpg

i used a 72 storage tray as the plastic ones dont warp like the earlier ones do , the 69 has a reinforcing steel panel on the back for the hinge mount and uses four bolts to hold it , if you want to put that on a 77 you have to remove the fuel tank and shroud for access.
I just glued the plate to the back wall with contact glue ,its held there fine for about a year now , also get some foam to stop the window from rattling in the tray.

77vette034.jpg

is it worth it ? well I can really hear the rear exhaust now, i dont get any exhaust fumes back inside , I found it a bit fiddly to get that seal on but yeah its worth it

this link helped me , if you need more specifics , just let me know

http://www.europeancorvette.com/html/removable_rear_window.htm

Bazz
 
i did this on my 77 and it was not too difficult....xylene works very well for removing the old window seal and adhesive. the only problem i had was getting the blind fasteners for the top latches to be the right dimensions to slip into metal tabs and not be protruding into where the latch catch is. i did a combination of elongating holes on the latch and grinding the fastener down. it is a fun project i like the sensory enhancement of the rear window being removed and it looks really cool. that corvette faqs article is what i used as the shopping list



00000121.jpg
 
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I did this to my73 two years ago. As mentioned the hard part was installing the new seal. I cut the old window out with a razor knife. Two thing I learned from this is I didn't know there were bezels for the upper latches or anchor plates I used j nuts.
 
I did this to my73 two years ago. As mentioned the hard part was installing the new seal. I cut the old window out with a razor knife. Two thing I learned from this is I didn't know there were bezels for the upper latches or anchor plates I used j nuts.

yeah me too, that was the blind fastener i used and had to grind it down, i think i remember you doing yours on the CF at the same time i did mine, bob
 
I've received most of the parts I need and will begin this project soon.

What is the best way to mount the new window glass into the new frame? The glass is 1/8" and the channel in the frame is 3/16". I thought about using silicone but wasn't sure how easy it would be to replace the glass later on. Would some type of solvent allow for easy removal once the silicone has cured?

How did the factory do it? I thought maybe some type of tape around the glass or a channel liner and then the glass was just press fit into the channel. But that seems prone to leaking.

Thanks for all the help.

DC
 
Finished up the window conversion today. Turned out pretty good. Didn't really like the fit of the after-market upper trim pieces with the cut out for the latches but then the originals didn't fit all that much better.

Lotta hours involved, especially after I came down with a severe case of "while I'm at it". Found some latch bezels which should arrive next week and I have a couple of leads on storage trays (missed out on the ones that were recently on ebay).

Bazz and all - thanks for the help. :beer:

DC
 
I've received most of the parts I need and will begin this project soon.

What is the best way to mount the new window glass into the new frame? The glass is 1/8" and the channel in the frame is 3/16". I thought about using silicone but wasn't sure how easy it would be to replace the glass later on. Would some type of solvent allow for easy removal once the silicone has cured?

How did the factory do it? I thought maybe some type of tape around the glass or a channel liner and then the glass was just press fit into the channel. But that seems prone to leaking.



Thanks for all the help.

DC

I pulled out a badly scratched glass from one of mine and am going to just use perspex or similar to replace it (when I get around to it !, i,ve also been told we cant get that thickness glass down here ) . Your right about the channel liner , to me it looks like some sort of a rubber tape pressed in with the glass,very hard to scrape out ,no way it wouldve leaked. Maybe the age of it made it harder . I havent looked at a type of sealer yet for mine ,what did you end up using ?




Finished up the window conversion today. Turned out pretty good. Didn't really like the fit of the after-market upper trim pieces with the cut out for the latches but then the originals didn't fit all that much better.

Lotta hours involved, especially after I came down with a severe case of "while I'm at it". Found some latch bezels which should arrive next week and I have a couple of leads on storage trays (missed out on the ones that were recently on ebay).

Bazz and all - thanks for the help. :beer:

DC

Glad it worked out for you DC3 :beer:, gotta agree with the "while im at its", another rear spring and new door hinge pins ,plus some f/glass crack repairs
 
I havent looked at a type of sealer yet for mine ,what did you end up using ?

I ended up using clear silicone. I found out that most solvents will loosen the silicone including gasoline, lacquer thinner, mineral spirits, etc so it should not be too difficult to replace the glass if I ever need to. If you use silicone, I would recommend you let any squeeze out cure for a couple of days to make it easier to remove. I only let mine cure overnight and the thicker spots were still a little sticky underneath and I had to use some solvent to get the frame clean. The thin spots just peeled right off so next time I will let it cure longer.

DC
 

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