SBC Qjet intake choke riser....

[mrvette]

Krazy problem, on a Edel aluminum intake with Qjet on it, on the motor home....

the issue is, I think my blocking of the heat riser/Xover passage way maybe limiting the speed of choke stove relaxing the spring....

so to save pulling the manifold, and removing the filler, what are the chances of just drilling a passage from the mounting surface under the choke stove down to the exhaust..?? and NOT have any debris fall into the #4 and 6 cylinders??

do it with engine running??

:crap::amazed:

 

[SmokinBBC]

You take off the heat riser valve? I removed mine but did not block the crossover.....spring takes a long time to open the choke. It was the heat riser directing heat to crossover and then heating the choke spring. I don't think your idea will work.



Put on an electric choke or take the filler out of the crossover.

 

[mrvette]

You take off the heat riser valve? I removed mine but did not block the crossover.....spring takes a long time to open the choke. It was the heat riser directing heat to crossover and then heating the choke spring. I don't think your idea will work.



Put on an electric choke or take the filler out of the crossover.

Well, yes, I would prefer a electric choke and get over it, but prices are in the 50 buck region, and then I not sure they will work on this carb....too many decades, and not enough vehicles....

so the cheep backup idea...drill down through the aluminum and the filler toward the exhaust to make a hot gas heat passage to the base of the temp coil...and have done with it...

:clap:

 

[SmokinBBC]

How/where you going to drill? Unless I'm missing something, won't you have exhaust exiting into your engine compartment?

50 bucks is what I paid for my elec choke at carbs unlimited.....works perfectly.

 

[mrvette]

How/where you going to drill? Unless I'm missing something, won't you have exhaust exiting into your engine compartment?

50 bucks is what I paid for my elec choke at carbs unlimited.....works perfectly.

The concept was to drill maybe 1/4" hole down throug the aluminum top of the riser, through the filler,and into the open air of the exhaust passage way....allowing hot gases to hit bottom of the choke stove, and seal it to the mani with RTV or what ever did the job....

more concerned with damaging the engine than anything else...

:clap::suicide:

 

[DeeVeeEight]

How/where you going to drill? Unless I'm missing something, won't you have exhaust exiting into your engine compartment?

50 bucks is what I paid for my elec choke at carbs unlimited.....works perfectly.

The concept was to drill maybe 1/4" hole down throug the aluminum top of the riser, through the filler,and into the open air of the exhaust passage way....allowing hot gases to hit bottom of the choke stove, and seal it to the mani with RTV or what ever did the job....

more concerned with damaging the engine than anything else...

:clap::suicide:

That sounds kind of dicey to me Gene. Think of the risk versus the $50. Do you want to have to pull & or replace the manifold if you have a mishap? Is it worth saving the $50 for that kind of risk?
I am currently facing a similar situation with my Buick, it has the hot air pipe in the manifold but my carb. isn't set up for an integral hot air choke, it needs a divorced spring type choke.

 

[daveL82]

Unless you're going to tap the drilled hole with an NOT tapered tap I wouldnt drill the hole and try to seal with rtv. Does the carb have the heating element in a cap mounted to the side of the carb? If so the electric element from an 80 better should work. Last one I bought from the parts store was less than $30

 

[mrvette]

Unless you're going to tap the drilled hole with an NOT tapered tap I wouldnt drill the hole and try to seal with rtv. Does the carb have the heating element in a cap mounted to the side of the carb? If so the electric element from an 80 better should work. Last one I bought from the parts store was less than $30

NO, the carb is now set for a divorced choke stove, which works fine upon startup, just that I don't think it's gettig hot enough fast enough to relax the choke all the way...:suicide:

 

[big2bird]

It's warm where you live. Lock the choke off. Put a dam cable to the dash.

 

[mrvette]

It's warm where you live. Lock the choke off. Put a dam cable to the dash.

Olde Skool, but kinda tough to teach granny/wife how to handle that...the thing is rigged enough as is....

and you maybe should guess that by now, she can keep up with most of it, but there are limits....

:crutches::goodnight:

 

[DeeVeeEight]

Gene,

This is just the item for you. I bought one for my Buick's Quadrajet as it has the old hot air pipe choke and I can't find original parts for it, so I am doing the conversion. $66.00 shipped to your door. It has a thermistor that bolts to the intake manifold to sense engine temps.

http://www.allcarbs.com/detail.php?pid=584&mfgn=7&ctgn=16&stt=0&gb=2

 

[SmokinBBC]

Gene,

This is just the item for you. I bought one for my Buick's Quadrajet as it has the old hot air pipe choke and I can't find original parts for it, so I am doing the conversion. $66.00 shipped to your door. It has a thermistor that bolts to the intake manifold to sense engine temps.

http://www.allcarbs.com/detail.php?pid=584&mfgn=7&ctgn=16&stt=0&gb=2

Same style I'm using...just different mounting bracket. Works like a charm.

 

[larrywalk]

Gene,

This is just the item for you. I bought one for my Buick's Quadrajet as it has the old hot air pipe choke and I can't find original parts for it, so I am doing the conversion. $66.00 shipped to your door. It has a thermistor that bolts to the intake manifold to sense engine temps.

http://www.allcarbs.com/detail.php?pid=584&mfgn=7&ctgn=16&stt=0&gb=2

First, this item only works on 1975 and later Q-jets. I am using one very similar on my '78 Vette - I like it!