Steering column disassembly

[427Swede]

I´m in the process of a complete body off restoration and right now I have the steering column completely disassembled, well, almost that is...
So I´m in need of some assistance.
I can not remove the Gearshift Lever Housing from the Shift Tube. Are these parts assembled using press fit or are they just stuck together after 40+ years?? I do not dare using any force before someone can give me a hint to how they are fit together. The rest of the column is in parts, no problems except for this. I have looked at Jim Sheas papers but I cant find any guidance on this.

Help on the subject is much appreciated:thumbs::thumbs:

Best Regards: Daniel

 

[Twin_Turbo]

Are you sure you have the correct manual??? No gear shift levers on these columns. Do you mean the housing on the front where the indicator stalk and tilt (if you ahve that) lever sticks out???

 

[427Swede]

Are you sure you have the correct manual??? No gear shift levers on these columns. Do you mean the housing on the front where the indicator stalk and tilt (if you ahve that) lever sticks out???

Well, I´ve solved the problem. Put the steering tube in the industrial washer and after that the stuck parts came loose.
It is not at tilt column. The part I am referring to is the hub that is connected to the tube at which the lever activated by a wire from the manual gearbox is acting.
At the bottom of this hub a plastic bearing is assembled. There is also a wave spring acting between the hub and bearing.

I suppose dirt and dried grease made it difficult to separate the parts.

Anyway, problem soved!

 

[JIML82]

FYI The tilt and T&T columns have a press fit between the shift tube and the bowl. Standard (non-adjustable) columns had a slip fit between the shift tube and the bowl. You were able to just eliminate 40 years of crud to get the two to seperate.

Tilt and T&T columns are a lot harder to disassemble. Here is one method.


BTW Regardless of the type of steering column, the shift tube is quite fragile. It consists of two thin wall, hollow tubes that are held together with injected plastic. They are designed to telescope over themselves in a severe frontal collision. If you break the plastic injection holding the two together, you really have a problem.
Jim

 

[427Swede]

Thank´s for the info:thumbs:

I am aware of the injected plastic holding the tubes and steering shafts together and I´m handling them very carefully.

All parts are now painted and I will start reassembly this weekend.
The lower bearing is in really bad condition and has to be changed. I have heard that if you are using a rack and pinion steering, (which I will be doing) this bearing will not last long. Does anyone have further info on this?

Best regards: Daniel

 

[JIML82]

I know that the 1969 lower bearings are better and more durable than the original Saginaw bearing design that was used in 1967 on the first generation energy absorbing steering columns.

I really haven't heard or read any information that indicates that the rack and pinion installations with three universal joints has caused lower bearing failures. But I could be wrong since I don't monitor R&P steering that closely.

Jim

 

[mrvette]

R & P is fine on the lower bearing, mine been in there almost ten years of DD use, but you maybe have to loosen the two lower flange bolts on the firewall to slightly relocate the column, maybe readjust your shifter lockout too.....

but I did my rack with only two universals, and so it was my install, not a kit....

:smash::thumbs:

 

[427Swede]

Thank´s for the info!
My steering column is now finished and it came together nicely. I have not ordered a new lower bearing yet, looking at possibly installing a needle bearing instead. This will of course mean some modifications but nothing too complicated.
I tried to add a photo but, it didn´t turn out well I think...

Best regards, Daniel

 

[BBShark]

Nice job on the column. Looks brand new.