Suspension Rebuild

E

EPF

Member
Joined
May 11, 2009
Messages
9
Location
Kernersville NC
I am trying to finish up my suspension rebuild and running into problems. I changed all the bushings front and back, new ball joints, tie rod ends, 460# springs (They are in right), and white KYB shocks. 1st off, the poly a-arm bushings squeek like hell. Very bad idea, and I will most likely have to take the loss and start all over with rubber. What a dumb ass! (Shaking my head) I should have known better. 2nd, the freaking thing looks like a Jeep! It is way to high! The front measures 29.25 at the bottom of the fender opening and the back is over 30. I must have done something wrong? Other than the front springs not being seated right, what could it be? Will the new shocks make it sit to high? I am ready to cut the coil springs but I wanted to make sure I would be able to lower the back first. I installed 8" bolts and this only dropped the back about 1". But... with the longer bolts, the end of the spring is very close to the tire. About 1/4", 3/8" max. Is this safe? Sure looks like I will cut the tire on the first bump I hit.
Anyway, to sift through the BS:
1) Why is my car so high after suspension rebuild?
2) Should the rear spring be so close to the tire (P255/60/15) with the 8" bolts?
Thanks in advance,
Eric
 
Did you grease the poly bushings? A cheap fix is to pull them apart and cut some small grooves on the inside, fill them up with grease and they won't squeak for a long time.

With longer bolts the spring will be closer to the tire, I've trimmed down springs before to gain some clearance, especially the composite springs with the metal end plates, they stick out past the actual spring. Easily ground down.

What kind of rear spring? A TRW?

If the front springs are seated properly, the suspension is settles and the a arm bushings are not preloaded in the drooped position with torqued down end bolts, it may be time to cut the spring. What about the sway bar? Did you loosen it up, settle the suspension and then tighten it down?
 
Twin_Turbo said:
Did you grease the poly bushings? A cheap fix is to pull them apart and cut some small grooves on the inside, fill them up with grease and they won't squeak for a long time.

With longer bolts the spring will be closer to the tire, I've trimmed down springs before to gain some clearance, especially the composite springs with the metal end plates, they stick out past the actual spring. Easily ground down.

What kind of rear spring? A TRW?

If the front springs are seated properly, the suspension is settles and the a arm bushings are not preloaded in the drooped position with torqued down end bolts, it may be time to cut the spring. What about the sway bar? Did you loosen it up, settle the suspension and then tighten it down?
Click to expand...

Hey TT, Thanks for the reply.
I have a stock spring. 10 leaves I think? I guess I could move the hole and cut it off? Will that hurt anything?

A arms preloaded? Uh oh? That sounds possible? Does that mean don't tighten the bolts while the car is off the ground? I think I did none of that propperly?

So, Should I get it back in the air, loosen everything, put it on the ground and then tighten back up?

How about the rear? Do I follow the same for the trailing arm, and strut rods also?
 
pre loading the bushings is usually a problem with rubber because they are vulcanized to the shell and the rubber actually deforms when the arm moves (it twists), you can feel that if you remove the spring and "feel" the arm when moving it up and down. Now, with poly bushings it shouldn't be a problem but there;s no way in knowing for sure what you did and how you did it, if for instance you used those serrated edged washers and all.

I wouldn't drill a new hole in the spring, just use it as is and check how close it really ets, this is more a problem with balloon like tires, like mounting a 275 or 295 on an 8" wide rim, although I mist admit, I cut through a 255 with a spring bolt when doing some hard cornering. The sidewall moved enough for it to hit but this was with 10" long bolts and a severely lowered car. It was also with a composite spring (82) and the end plates on those appear to be made specifically for cutting into sidewalls :)

BTW, welcome to VM :hi:
 
MYBAD79 said:
Welcome to VM.... here's a thread with a few pics of my 4x4 '79 with these 460 coils....

http://www.vettemod.com/forum/showthread.php?t=344

I have poly bushings also, they do not squeek if you use the grease that you can f.e. get at the Zone (Energy Suspension).

I cut the coils but then ended up buying the 550 coils anyways.... much better :thumbs:
Click to expand...

Mine looks just like your's did! Exactly! Just like you said, All that work and money, and things are much worse than before. Guess I'll be pulling them out and cutting them. I'll start with one coil.
Thanks for the help.
 
Twin_Turbo said:
pre loading the bushings is usually a problem with rubber because they are vulcanized to the shell and the rubber actually deforms when the arm moves (it twists), you can feel that if you remove the spring and "feel" the arm when moving it up and down. Now, with poly bushings it shouldn't be a problem but there;s no way in knowing for sure what you did and how you did it, if for instance you used those serrated edged washers and all.

I wouldn't drill a new hole in the spring, just use it as is and check how close it really ets, this is more a problem with balloon like tires, like mounting a 275 or 295 on an 8" wide rim, although I mist admit, I cut through a 255 with a spring bolt when doing some hard cornering. The sidewall moved enough for it to hit but this was with 10" long bolts and a severely lowered car. It was also with a composite spring (82) and the end plates on those appear to be made specifically for cutting into sidewalls :)



BTW, welcome to VM :hi:
Click to expand...

Thanks man.
The a-arms moved relatively easily after I tightened them up. I don't think they are holding the front end up. What you said makes sense about rubber, but with the poly, they should move freely, Right? Anyway, I'm at a loss. I guess my next move is to get out the cutting wheel. I wanted to cut them right off the bat but got scared.
Thanks for the help.
 
Seems like those aftermarket rear springs have an arch to them that is way off. I have a 7-leaf, but even with the long bolts, the cars just sits at normal height. Well at least it is normal...right ?
 
Belgian1979vette said:
Seems like those aftermarket rear springs have an arch to them that is way off. I have a 7-leaf, but even with the long bolts, the cars just sits at normal height. Well at least it is normal...right ?
Click to expand...

I have a aftermarket 7-leaf and it settled quiet a bit - it was "normal" with 9" bolts and then settled down so now the nuts are all the way 'up'....
 
Hey guys,
An update on my jeep. It settled a little after I drove it around for a while, but still wicked high in the front with the new springs. It may have been the correct (Factory) hight as some had mentioned, but I didn't like it. I pulled the coils back out and cut 1 full coil, and, Sweet! Just what I wanted. The front sits a little less than 27" and the rear is about .5" higher w/8" bolts. I am very happy with it. Just wish I had paid a little better attention to what I was doing when I installed the new seals on the brake pistons! I'd be done by now! So I have one more caliper re-rebuild and then I can get it to the shop for an alignement, and I'm done, I think? I have pics but apperently they are to big to load? I can't figure it out?
By the way, when using poly and new sleeves (Non-serraded), tighten the bolts whenever you like. It doesn't matter.

Thanks again for all the help!
Eric
 
EPF said:
Hey guys,
An update on my jeep. It settled a little after I drove it around for a while, but still wicked high in the front with the new springs. It may have been the correct (Factory) hight as some had mentioned, but I didn't like it. I pulled the coils back out and cut 1 full coil, and, Sweet! Just what I wanted. The front sits a little less than 27" and the rear is about .5" higher w/8" bolts. I am very happy with it. Just wish I had paid a little better attention to what I was doing when I installed the new seals on the brake pistons! I'd be done by now! So I have one more caliper re-rebuild and then I can get it to the shop for an alignement, and I'm done, I think? I have pics but apperently they are to big to load? I can't figure it out?
By the way, when using poly and new sleeves (Non-serraded), tighten the bolts whenever you like. It doesn't matter.

Thanks again for all the help!
Eric
Click to expand...

My son is trying to jack his Jeep UP, for mountain climbing....but he is obvously not here in Florida....

as for my vette, the thing measures dead same as the frame measures on the spec books....stock ride height from the frame to pavement....even though the tires LOOK high....dunno what to think....

:toothbrush:
 
Did you powder coat those saw blades? They look great! I am thinking about doing this on my 92's zr1 wheels. What do you think?
 
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