valve cover "pretty-fication"

clutchdust

Millionaire Playboy
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I got some tall valve covers a couple months ago for when I finally get ready to slap on the AFR heads. I'm going to need the tall covers when I finally get that set of Comp full roller rockers. I was then, as I have been my entire freakin' life, been on a budget, so I bought these used roundy-round covers. Now most of you know how they normally come, one plain and one with two breathers in it. That didn't work for me so I used my favorite tool, my Dremel, and made a second hole in each. I then transplanted one of the tubes. The remaining hole in each will be filled with a push in breather. Although I am thinking really hard about cutting my breather tubes in half and mounting the second set in the newly created holes for a grand total of four, count them 4, breathers! (hey, if two are good, for must be better, right?)
So anyway, that leaves me with these generic looking valve covers, like this:
834c19a26cedaeb.jpg
So I think to myself, "self, there has to be something we can do to make these things look nicer. What if we (I use the plural when I talk to myself) polish them and have a machine shop mill some flames into them?" Well, that obviously would look nice, but I refer back to the whole "being-on-a-budget" part of things. Then I remember I still have two Sting Ray badges left over from that '75 I parted out. I kept them because I was thinking really hard about actually putting them on the '81. But I knew even if I did, it would only be temporary since I intend to remove all badging for the final product and have everything air-brushed on.
So then I think, "hey, I'll be those badges would look super cool just on the valve covers".
Here's a mock-up:
834c19a26d53df0.jpg
I like it. I think I will like it even more once I polish the covers. Now my only concern is actually mounting them on the valve covers. I could drill the holes, that's easy enough. My concern then is trusting the cheesy push nuts on the back of the posts, considering a failure means that thing would fall through the engine.
My other option would be to cut the posts off and just glue them on.
So I'm enlisting your opinions. How would you attach these badges if you were doing it?
And feel free to let me know what you think of the idea anyway.
Thanks!
 
IMO, it looks just fine, but I would powdercoat the covers black, or maybe the Stingray sign.....needs contrast to see it....

I would powdercoat black the signs, .....and at any rate, secure them with RTV clear or black, the GOOD stuff, GE is the usual maker but the Permatex stuff is good too.....cut the studs off for sure...

I use RTV for all sorts of totally waterproof, and high temp gluing, it's not the strongest glue in the world, but that sign not coming off easy, it's what I put the old '65 red/wh/blue Fuel Injection sign on the back of my car with...

:drink:
 
Powdercoat or crinle black, drill the holes for a tight fit and use black urethane to glue them on. Urethane sticks better than silicone.
Will look killer
 
Powdercoat or crinle black, drill the holes for a tight fit and use black urethane to glue them on. Urethane sticks better than silicone.
Will look killer

Danny, the urethane I familiar with/use is Gorilla glue, and it expands like crazy and bubbles as it cures....getting all over a finished surface....

I stick by my RTV opinion....

:thumbs:
 
The stuff I use is black structural urethane, looks like bathroon caulk. It does not bubble at all, dries like caulk, never gets hard but dries stiffer than silicone and sticks better than silicone. Pretty good stuff
 
The stuff I use is black structural urethane, looks like bathroon caulk. It does not bubble at all, dries like caulk, never gets hard but dries stiffer than silicone and sticks better than silicone. Pretty good stuff

INteresting...is it a supply house special or Lowes/Despot carry it?? in caulking tubes, I presume....does it come in white for household use??

:beer:
 
Powdercoat or crinle black, drill the holes for a tight fit and use black urethane to glue them on. Urethane sticks better than silicone.
Will look killer

Crinkle Black ???? Danny your showing your age , I used to love crinkle black , durable stuff !
 
Powdercoat or crinle black, drill the holes for a tight fit and use black urethane to glue them on. Urethane sticks better than silicone.
Will look killer

Crinkle Black ???? Danny your showing your age , I used to love crinkle black , durable stuff !

On my valve covers for several years now....guess I"m olde too....

:pprrtt::crap:
 
The stuff I use is black structural urethane, looks like bathroon caulk. It does not bubble at all, dries like caulk, never gets hard but dries stiffer than silicone and sticks better than silicone. Pretty good stuff

Got a name brand? I have some PC-7. I'm thinking about using it but for some reason I have this aversion to actually cutting the posts off these covers. Doesn't make sense but I just get the heebie jeebies every time I think about permanently altering something.
 
Powdercoat or crinle black, drill the holes for a tight fit and use black urethane to glue them on. Urethane sticks better than silicone.
Will look killer

Danny, the urethane I familiar with/use is Gorilla glue, and it expands like crazy and bubbles as it cures....getting all over a finished surface....

I stick by my RTV opinion....

:thumbs:

Gorilla glue is the worst dam crap ever marketed ! Toss it in the garbage can, it was designed for wood working and isnt worth a s$*% even in that application.
 
Gorilla glue is the worst dam crap ever marketed ! Toss it in the garbage can, it was designed for wood working and isnt worth a s$*% even in that application.

That was the original Gorilla glue, now they package and sell all kinds, urethane, epoxies etc.
 
Gorilla glue is the worst dam crap ever marketed ! Toss it in the garbage can, it was designed for wood working and isnt worth a s$*% even in that application.

That was the original Gorilla glue, now they package and sell all kinds, urethane, epoxies etc.

Well, yeh, I use it for wood, mostly....seems ok....except for the foaming when curing....

When doing the kitchen cabinets I used good old yellow Elmer's glue though...be here till hell freezes over....

:hissyfit:
 
I 'd feel more secure if my script was being held with something permanent. JB Weld has served me well over the years when bonding metal. I prefer the slow stuff, not the five minute product. After sanding the script bottom for a good bond, put a small amount of JB along the script length and tape in place. Wait 24 hours and it ain't going anywhere. Be sure the VC surface has been cleaned well before bonding the script. If you buff the VC before bonding the script, it may have a waxy coating that must be removed. Professional buffing abrasive sticks are held together with a waxy material. It can act as a release agent and produce a poor bond. You don't want the script to fall off along the highway.
 
My concern then is trusting the cheesy push nuts on the back of the posts, considering a failure means that thing would fall through the engine.
You could slide tiny o-rings up the posts to hold them on.
I've also seen small rubber inserts installed and then you push the posts into the inserts sorta like a PCV valve grommet only tighter.
 
My concern then is trusting the cheesy push nuts on the back of the posts, considering a failure means that thing would fall through the engine.
You could slide tiny o-rings up the posts to hold them on.
I've also seen small rubber inserts installed and then you push the posts into the inserts sorta like a PCV valve grommet only tighter.

I would not dream of using anything like a O ring inside a valve cover, and then to boot the stakes/pegs will not line up with the valve train...bet on that....

use a surface mount technique...it's fine....RTV will be there till the cows come home....use RTV black sensor safe if you really paranoid...

too boot, you REALLY want more holes in your VALVE covers?? or more concerned over some chrome??

:thumbs::surrender::stirpot:
 

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