valve spring retainers

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clutchdust

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So is there really any good reason to replace undamaged steel valve spring retainers? I mean, we're talking steel. We don't generally have a problem reusing quite a bit of internal parts as long as they're undamaged.
I have to replace the springs on these AFR heads I bought but I'm seriously struggling to justify why I should replace the retainers. Convince me.
 
Springs, retainers and locks must all match and be designed to work with reach other. Mis-matching those parts can lead to valve train failure.

Recently, on a different Forum, a guy wanted to run 7 degree locks on 10 degree retainers. I advised him not to. Trying to save a few $$ could cost him the engine.

It's also important for the retainers to fit properly on the springs. The camshaft catalogs show diagrams on fitment.

Bottom line: If your retainers were designed for the springs you're going to run, then re-use them. If not, don't. I always compare what could be gained against what could be lost.

Jake
 
OK, Jake, now come on, I find it hard to believe any one is that dumb, but that's 'cause I'm not that dumb. 7* locks with 10* retainers??? Should have let him do it.
I have no problems matching the new springs to the retainers I have but otherwise, I see no reason to replace these retainers.
 
I'd say if they're not all beat up, no nicks or stress risers, no reason to not reuse them, provided they fit the springs. Don't forget, you'll also need to put shims under the springs so they don't eat the heads.
 
I always leave that shit to my head shop, almost as specialized as doing a bottom end, WTF, they have to do the machine work anyway, may as well have them do it all, that way we know it's Kosher....

:smash::smash::surrender::thumbs:
 
If you are going from single to dual springs it is likely they are different. Like you said they do not realyl wear out. As long as they fit the spring (and use the locks you were using) you should be fine. If you are going to a bigger cam check retainer to seal clearance too. Sometimes the recommended retainer is shorter inside to give you more room.
 
If you are re-using springs take them to a machine shop and have them tested. If they do not match the required valve seat pressure, have coil bind with the lift your are using or just do not match you are asking for trouble. Don't take anyone's word on what you are suppose to have.

A buddy had a reputable shop install his new cam with used springs, retainers and locks and the motor ran out of steam at 4800 RPM's. There were all kinds of excuses, so he went to a machine shop to have the springs tested and they were all junk that did not produce sufficient seat pressure. This is a reputable shop that works on race cars as a speciality. Two retainers were from another set and did not match his keeper angle. They were about to pull through the retainer. I am no engine guru, but learn from other people's experience and would not use anything untested. A call to your cam manufacturer will get you the specs you need to produce a balanced system that works. Test parts first and build once.
 
clutchdust said:
OK, Jake, now come on, I find it hard to believe any one is that dumb, but that's 'cause I'm not that dumb. 7* locks with 10* retainers??? Should have let him do it.
I have no problems matching the new springs to the retainers I have but otherwise, I see no reason to replace these retainers.
Click to expand...

Did you read what "RED" posted? If you visit the some 8 or more different Forums as I do, you'd be surprised at the things guys do.

There are fitment issues between the spring and retainer that must be right and if they're not, failure looms.

Sorry I didn't give you the answer you wanted (e.g. ". . . I see no reason to replace these retainers."), but you did ask, right?

One last time: Use only the retainers that are specifically recommended for the springs you're using. Skip the "just as good as" or "should work" reassurances.

Jake
 
JAKE said:
Did you read what "RED" posted? If you visit the some 8 or more different Forums as I do, you'd be surprised at the things guys do.
.....

Sorry I didn't give you the answer you wanted (e.g. ". . . I see no reason to replace these retainers."), but you did ask, right?
.....

Jake
Click to expand...

Yep, I read it. Still not sure your point though. If the new springs I ultimately use call for the exact same retainers I currently have, why should I replace used steel retainers. I suppose that would have been a little more specific information. So tell me, why can I not simply match the new springs to the retainers I have now? I'm not sure how much different they can really be. The springs I need are probably only just a little higher in rate than the ones originally on these heads. They were rated for a max of .550" lift with a flat tappet lifter. I'll be running pretty close to that but with roller lifters, plus I'm not entirely sure how much different the weight (mass) on the rollers is but I'm fairly sure it's greater than flat tappets. That and I have no idea how many and how hard the miles on the original springs are.
 
FWIW: using the springs that match the cam, or at least match the pressures (seat, open, and lift) to the manufacturer's specs makes the whole show last. And the retainers need to seat properly on the springs, obviously.

If your retainers seat on the springs, are not dinged up, I can see no reason to use them.
 
I measured the retainers yesterday and just want some help making sure I'm doing this right. I have one of those cheap Harbor Freight mic sets but I think they're accurate enough for this. What I get is 1.4-17/25", which as I calculate it comes up to 1.468". Now I can't imagine even AFR is having specially made springs and retainers for their stuff so I assume that it's either 1.460 or 1.464 spring.
Am I doing this right?
 
Choose springs specifically designed for the cam you're running, then choose retainers specifically designed for those springs. Doing otherwise is like rolling the dice.

The tone of your posts indicates you're determined to use the retainers you have and you seem to be looking for justification to use them. I can't emphatically say that you'll have a valve train failure, but I can't emphatically say that you won't. Correct fitment is the key, but, as always, it's your decision.

Compare what you may gain Vs what you may lose. My view is "Why chance it?"

Jake
 
Hey Clutchy,

I'm out by the Santa Fe with a full machine shop if you want to bring your stuff by on the weekend. We can measure things up precisely, springs pressures and all.

I've new to Chevies but been building race engines for twenty years...

(Even the one in the car right now with the hole in the block...Doh!):crap:
 
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