Waterproof Chassis?

denpo

Carburated Nihilist
Joined
Jul 14, 2010
Messages
2,522
Location
Montreal, QC
My former frame has a bad case of rusting. There is worst but this scary for anything more that boulevard cruising.
Dismantling it was a learning on how water can ruin a chassis.

My first decision was to put asphalt filler in the gap between the rear gusset and the frame. I think i'm gonna had a draining hole on the outside of the gusset too.

Here's my question.
Could it be possible to make the chassis waterproof once for good. Like putting rubber "cork" at all holes, having some kind of giant flexible dustcover at the trailing arm junction, filling the inside of the frame with some kind of lightweight waterproof foam. I don't know, I throwing random ideas.
Sure holes must have a purpose, like maybe draining any water, still it may also be a cheap way to preserve the frame.
You tell me.
 
My former frame has a bad case of rusting. There is worst but this scary for anything more that boulevard cruising.
Dismantling it was a learning on how water can ruin a chassis.

My first decision was to put asphalt filler in the gap between the rear gusset and the frame. I think i'm gonna had a draining hole on the outside of the gusset too.

Here's my question.
Could it be possible to make the chassis waterproof once for good. Like putting rubber "cork" at all holes, having some kind of giant flexible dustcover at the trailing arm junction, filling the inside of the frame with some kind of lightweight waterproof foam. I don't know, I throwing random ideas.
Sure holes must have a purpose, like maybe draining any water, still it may also be a cheap way to preserve the frame.
You tell me.

I dont think you can completely seal a frame, water will find it's way into it and do the damages.

Asphalt products could be good but my sons car whole under car was covered, it caked and water found its way under it and guess what?

the only part rusted was under the asphalt since water was trapped between the body and the black stuff.

I dont know, probably paint it with rust encapsulator or something like that would be better.

http://www.eastwood.com/rust-encapsulator.html

http://www.offroaders.com/reviewbox/showproduct.php?product=298
 
Last edited:
Best thing to do is make damn sure there are plenty of drain holes to let water out.....none are blocked with crap/dirt....

try to not drive in the rain too much....

:cry::hissyfit::goodnight:

I'd be nervous about foam fillers....water WILL WIN.....you maybe able to find a way to spray some paint maybe even POR15 into the interior....but how in hell to tell you did any good?? can't see inside....
 
Best protection is to have the frame hot galvanized, protects it inside and out.
Boats trailers down here are in and out of salt water and have no rust after 20 years.
It's not that pricey, at least around here.
 
Best protection is to have the frame hot galvanized, protects it inside and out.
Boats trailers down here are in and out of salt water and have no rust after 20 years.
It's not that pricey, at least around here.
out of curiosity, how not that pricey?
 
South Florida is more upcharge then cheep old Jacksonville...but I know a typical boat trailer here, of similar size as a shark chassis sells for only 2 grand or so...complete....

so figger the rest of the shit, the plating is almost nothing....

but you up in the frozen socialist north....so fish around....

surely 2/3 the price you pay is for some .gov/green weenie fees to do with their imagination.....


:hissyfit::hissyfit::crap::yahoo:

that was a SHOT...notice???

:oh:
 
Best protection is to have the frame hot galvanized, protects it inside and out.
Boats trailers down here are in and out of salt water and have no rust after 20 years.
It's not that pricey, at least around here.
out of curiosity, how not that pricey?

Anywhere from $200.00 to 500.00 and that was around 2 years ago.
Some have min charge of 4 or 500 bucks to keep out Joe Public.
You should get cleaning, blasting, acid dipping and hot zinc for less than a buck a pound.
Clean metal will be cheaper. A gift, if you have priced epoxy paint and primer and not even considered it will be rust free for 30 years and longer.

Here is a place in PA, but has plants all over.
V&S Galvanizing

If you call any place, don't act like pain in the ass joe homeowner asking a zillion dumbass questions, or they will just tell you to hit the road.
Just tell them what you have in size, and weight, ask for a price for hot galv, and a timeline.

Here is a primer on rust prevention of other methods.
http://www.a-sp.org/database/custom/cprotection/CorrosionProtection.pdf
 
Best protection is to have the frame hot galvanized, protects it inside and out.
Boats trailers down here are in and out of salt water and have no rust after 20 years.
It's not that pricey, at least around here.
out of curiosity, how not that pricey?

Anywhere from $200.00 to 500.00 and that was around 2 years ago.
Some have min charge of 4 or 500 bucks to keep out Joe Public.
You should get cleaning, blasting, acid dipping and hot zinc for less than a buck a pound.
Clean metal will be cheaper. A gift, if you have priced epoxy paint and primer and not even considered it will be rust free for 30 years and longer.

Here is a place in PA, but has plants all over.
V&S Galvanizing

If you call any place, don't act like pain in the ass joe homeowner asking a zillion dumbass questions, or they will just tell you to hit the road.
Just tell them what you have in size, and weight, ask for a price for hot galv, and a timeline.

Here is a primer on rust prevention of other methods.
http://www.a-sp.org/database/custom/cprotection/CorrosionProtection.pdf
Excellent reading, thanks you.
You're right, I expected much more.
 
If you are serious, have the frame dipped, then neutralized.

Buy a 1 gallon garden sprayer
10100.gif
and fabricate a wand of sufficient length to be able to reach all the interior areas of the frame .
Load the prayer with SPI epoxy and spray the interior of the frame, rolling the frame over at least 360 degrees to let the epoxy run into all the areas.
Now load a spray gun with a large tip such as a 1.8 or larger and spray the exterior of the frame.

I would not try this procedure with any epoxy other than SPI epoxy.

If you do decide to do this, call Barry @ SPI and get the proper neutralization procedure.
 
If you are serious, have the frame dipped, then neutralized.

Buy a 1 gallon garden sprayer
10100.gif
and fabricate a wand of sufficient length to be able to reach all the interior areas of the frame .
Load the prayer with SPI epoxy and spray the interior of the frame, rolling the frame over at least 360 degrees to let the epoxy run into all the areas.
Now load a spray gun with a large tip such as a 1.8 or larger and spray the exterior of the frame.

I would not try this procedure with any epoxy other than SPI epoxy.

If you do decide to do this, call Barry @ SPI and get the proper neutralization procedure.

Hummm I like that, could this be done with POR15, spray it inside a couples of times.
 
If you are serious, have the frame dipped, then neutralized.

Buy a 1 gallon garden sprayer
10100.gif
and fabricate a wand of sufficient length to be able to reach all the interior areas of the frame .
Load the prayer with SPI epoxy and spray the interior of the frame, rolling the frame over at least 360 degrees to let the epoxy run into all the areas.
Now load a spray gun with a large tip such as a 1.8 or larger and spray the exterior of the frame.

I would not try this procedure with any epoxy other than SPI epoxy.

If you do decide to do this, call Barry @ SPI and get the proper neutralization procedure.

Hummm I like that, could this be done with POR15, spray it inside a couples of times.

Why use POR 15 when there are better products?
 

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