What oil do YOU use?

[big2bird]

I know the oil thing has been beat to death, and there are plenty of good articles out there.
This thread is about what YOU use, how much, and where you get it. It might be interesting, and we might learn something about saving a nickel.
I'll start by saying I use Valvoline Racing in the Vette, at about $3.50 a qt, and use Regular Valvoline from the zone in the Silverado and the Caddy..About 1.90 on sale. :noworry:

 

[kwplot34]

Royal Purple XRP in the vette,I get it from RPM oil, it's around $12 bucks a qt. Rotella in my diesel truck,and Cummins blue in my tractors,i have know idea what the price is on the last 2,i buy them in 2 gal containers and don't even pay attention to the price.

 

[mrvette]

I buy what's on sale, and have NEVER found any differences between brands, I tend to use 20-50 here in FLORIDA summers if I can find it, and obviously thinner in winter....

Years ago I went synthetic, but gave up on it, as making no practical sense, cost wise....

:hunter:

 

[MYBAD79]

Usually I buy either Mobil1, Valvoline or Castrol full synthetic when it's on sale - right now Mobil is on sale at the Zone and Advanced Auto: $29.95 for 5 qts incl a Bosch filter.
Last week I bought Valvoline synthetic at Wally Mart for $21 for a 5qt container.

 

[glassbowtie77]

I run Valvoline Maxlife 10w30 in the Vette and in my 95 GTP w/208,000 miles on it. I pay $12.99 for a 5qt container @ Walmart. In my wife's 05 Santa Fe I run Valvoline Full Synthetic 10w30, $19.99 for a 5qt container @ Walmart. I use Napa oil filters in all my cars (made by Wix) $6.99 each. I find that Walmart has the best prices around for oil.

 

[BRUTAL64]

I know the oil thing has been beat to death, and there are plenty of good articles out there.
This thread is about what YOU use, how much, and where you get it. It might be interesting, and we might learn something about saving a nickel.
I'll start by saying I use Valvoline Racing in the Vette, at about $3.50 a qt, and use Regular Valvoline from the zone in the Silverado and the Caddy..About 1.90 on sale. :noworry:

Use the same oil as you. Except I don't go to the ZONE. The one over here is run by a bunch dumb fucks.:gurney:

 

[Cherry]

At present I use Pure Power 10w 30. The filter is custom made, it filters 97%, by pass 3%.

I've been in a bulk oil peocessing plant. Out side the plant was a string of railroad tanker cars with the bulk oil.At the end of the production line SEVEN different labels were being attached to the plastic bottles. Note (SEVEN) production lines. Each production line a squirt of additive was added to each bottle.
So is one oil better than the other? So the only true test is a heat test? At present Union 76 is first place, Now who would think of that?

Oh YES, I'm wrong and live in the past, THAT'S WHY """" I KNOW IT ALL"""!!!

 

[mrvette]

That was a shot Rich, and yes, it did take place decades ago with PICTURE TUBES for TV sets....NEW sets....Phlico on one side Sillivania on the other....

Had a damn Zenith/Rawland TV and OEM tube from early 70's.....lasted until maybe 7 years ago....no lie...

 

[TimAT]

Valvoline Racing 30wt in Ol' Red, Valvoline 10-30 everywhere else, and Amsoil in the diesel.

 

[glen242]

Valvoline VR-1 10W-30. Wix filters. I purchase from NAPA.

 

[SmokinBBC]

RP 10W30 in the BB. About 7.50 a quart.

 

[JPhil]

Rotella 15W-40, CI formula. Bought 6 gallons several years ago, don't remember what the price was. Still have about 1 1/2 left.
K&N filters, mainly because of the lug on the bottom I can get a box wrench onto.
Thinking about Amsoil synthetic though, due to my valve guide smoking "issue".

 

[68L71]

Rotella in my L71

 

[Cherry]

Cheap shot?

Well,you might use one of the different oil's suggested here. That is to lubericate the trash can lid you have been beating for the past 1.5 years. The lid sounds like a thump, the twang is gone, the handle revit's are loose, your drunk and depressed from inhailing the methane from your garbage can.

 

[MYBAD79]

Please keep in mind that this thread is about oil.

 

[BRUTAL64]

Since we are talking oil bypass here also. I have 100% oil filtration. I plug the bypass completely--the first time I did it was in 78. Done, maybe, a dozen engines this way. I take the cannsiter type from 67 back and modify the 68 up blocks to use it. Bore wear and bearing wear is reduced GREATLY.:noworry:

 

[turtlevette]

Since we are talking oil bypass here also. I have 100% oil filtration. I plug the bypass completely--the first time I did it was in 78. Done, maybe, a dozen engines this way. I take the cannsiter type from 67 back and modify the 68 up blocks to use it. Bore wear and bearing wear is reduced GREATLY.:noworry:

someone like me wouldn't be able to do that. After a year and 15k miles that filter has a lot of crap in it. When oil is cold it just ain't going to pass through that filter easily. Better to have "dirty" oil flowing than no oil or not enough oil.

Is the requirement that oil always go through the filter on every pass a necessary one? Remember that the oil in the pan has been filtered thousands of times and the filtering is progressive, so what you really have is a crankcase full of very clean oil. If that oil gets bypassed around the filter for a few seconds or minutes at a time, is there really any harm? I think not.

 

[SmokinBBC]

Since we are talking oil bypass here also. I have 100% oil filtration. I plug the bypass completely--the first time I did it was in 78. Done, maybe, a dozen engines this way. I take the cannsiter type from 67 back and modify the 68 up blocks to use it. Bore wear and bearing wear is reduced GREATLY.:noworry:

someone like me wouldn't be able to do that. After a year and 15k miles that filter has a lot of crap in it. When oil is cold it just ain't going to pass through that filter easily. Better to have "dirty" oil flowing than no oil or not enough oil.

Is the requirement that oil always go through the filter on every pass a necessary one? Remember that the oil in the pan has been filtered thousands of times and the filtering is progressive, so what you really have is a crankcase full of very clean oil. If that oil gets bypassed around the filter for a few seconds or minutes at a time, is there really any harm? I think not.

Why do you wait 15k to change your filter?

 

[turtlevette]

Since we are talking oil bypass here also. I have 100% oil filtration. I plug the bypass completely--the first time I did it was in 78. Done, maybe, a dozen engines this way. I take the cannsiter type from 67 back and modify the 68 up blocks to use it. Bore wear and bearing wear is reduced GREATLY.:noworry:

someone like me wouldn't be able to do that. After a year and 15k miles that filter has a lot of crap in it. When oil is cold it just ain't going to pass through that filter easily. Better to have "dirty" oil flowing than no oil or not enough oil.

Is the requirement that oil always go through the filter on every pass a necessary one? Remember that the oil in the pan has been filtered thousands of times and the filtering is progressive, so what you really have is a crankcase full of very clean oil. If that oil gets bypassed around the filter for a few seconds or minutes at a time, is there really any harm? I think not.

Why do you wait 15k to change your filter?

Once a year whether it needs it or not.

 

[BRUTAL64]

Since we are talking oil bypass here also. I have 100% oil filtration. I plug the bypass completely--the first time I did it was in 78. Done, maybe, a dozen engines this way. I take the cannsiter type from 67 back and modify the 68 up blocks to use it. Bore wear and bearing wear is reduced GREATLY.:noworry:

someone like me wouldn't be able to do that. After a year and 15k miles that filter has a lot of crap in it. When oil is cold it just ain't going to pass through that filter easily. Better to have "dirty" oil flowing than no oil or not enough oil.

Is the requirement that oil always go through the filter on every pass a necessary one? Remember that the oil in the pan has been filtered thousands of times and the filtering is progressive, so what you really have is a crankcase full of very clean oil. If that oil gets bypassed around the filter for a few seconds or minutes at a time, is there really any harm? I think not.

Sorry, it is a fully blocked bypass. No problems ever.