I messed some more with my carb and dizzy....

mrvette said:
big_G said:
If your ignition was working properly before, you won't notice a change in performance.
Click to expand...

UNless you have a rich idle carb setup...smooths out greatly then.....

otherwise, NO....

:D
Click to expand...

There ya go. NASCAR runs them for THIS reasone, and this reason ONLY. They also run TWO on an A-B setup, because the POS fails with regularity in 500 miles.
They help keep the plugs from loading up with the super rich idle.
 
big2bird said:
mrvette said:
big_G said:
If your ignition was working properly before, you won't notice a change in performance.
Click to expand...

UNless you have a rich idle carb setup...smooths out greatly then.....

otherwise, NO....

:D
Click to expand...

There ya go. NASCAR runs them for THIS reasone, and this reason ONLY. They also run TWO on an A-B setup, because the POS fails with regularity in 500 miles.
They help keep the plugs from loading up with the super rich idle.
Click to expand...


Serious?? jeez.....:gurney::evil:
 
010752 said:
There is a hei factory module with an extra wire than can be switched to retard the spark about 10° just for starting. Was originally designed for emission control.

Will have to look up the part #.
Click to expand...

You can stay with the reliable hei module.
This is the Hei 5 pin module.
Can replace the oem 4 pin.
Has the extra R term than when grounded with a switch will retard the spark 10°, good for hard starting advanced timing.
Extra term was originally for a knock sensor.

Standard Products LX330, can cross to AC Delco or others.

Less than 25 bucks wholesale or around 60 bucks retail.

StandardLX330.jpg
 
That's it. It should be a good price, not much call for them these days. Good price to test.

Here is the AC Delco equivalent D1941.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/D194...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

The oem Delco are supposed to have the proper dwell properties and apparantly the aftermarket performance modules don't adjust dwell thru the rpm range as GM did and give just the proper dwell for higher rpm. Don't know if Standard is a direct GM copy or not, never had problems with their parts.

Perhaps someone knows the difference, I don't.
 
010752 said:
That's it. It should be a good price, not much call for them these days. Good price to test.

Here is the AC Delco equivalent D1941.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/D194...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

The oem Delco are supposed to have the proper dwell properties and apparantly the aftermarket performance modules don't adjust dwell thru the rpm range as GM did and give just the proper dwell for higher rpm. Don't know if Standard is a direct GM copy or not, never had problems with their parts.

Perhaps someone knows the difference, I don't.
Click to expand...

I may have some of them at home, but I'm outa town. Less than $20 is cheap though. Check at Rock Auto.
 
Karsten, did you try messing with the pump shot volume? Did you try a smaller set of squirters to make the pump shot duration longer? How much manifold vacuum do you have? If it's low, you need a set of softer step up springs so your metering rods actually pull down to the economy step, yours may be not pulling down giving a rich cruise/low rpm because it's running on the enrichment step all the time. If your car idles and cruises lets say around 11-9" Hg of vacuum you will need a 9" or thereabouts spring so you can cruyise lean and have the enrichment when you need it. You may very well have either a gap in your fuel delivery or it's running pig rich down low causing a stumble as the engine recovers from the rich condition.
 
I installed the stiffest springs in the kit per Edelbrock's manual (page8). Right now it's running almost perfect, spark plugs are light brown (tan) indicating it's running slightly lean.
I'll try #7 on the chart in the manual: 1 step richer in cruise and power mode: easy change, it's just a rod...

Pump shot... I moved the rod up to the upper hole and it runs ok, moved the rod to the center hole and the stuttering gets worse.
I drilled another hole where the "X" is and moved the rod to that new hole... that did not make a noticeable change.... I am expecting some improvement from the next rod change....

the photo below is the old 600cfm carb, was easier to use that one for the photo...

214a5153c343bb0.jpg
 
Try some smaller nozzles to time the pump shot longer, no sense in upping the shot if the fuel is consumed too quickly, you need it to last to cover the dead spot between dile and off idle transition to main booster metering, that's the dead spot you are trying to cover. Slow on the throttle and the transition circuit handles it, nail it and it's a pump shot deal.
 
I installed different metering rods (2 stages richer in power and cruise mode, #11 on the chart) - of course I did that before reading your reply here....LOL.... anyways, I only got to take it out for 2 minutes before it started to pour.... but I think the dead spot is gone... I'll have to do some more testing tomorrow if it doesn't rain...

If I need smaller nozzles, where do I get these and why are they not part of the $60 calibration kit ?? All I got for $60 is a few jets, springs and rods.... they sure know how to make money.... :cussing:

Here's the chart and the rod info: Im at #11 now and it seems to run better.

214a54b26937da4.jpg
.
214a54b269ad056.jpg
.
 
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FWIW- that Mallory Hy-Fire box is also sold with Summit's brand name on it for about $50 less than the Mallory box- same stuff, different wrapper. And it works just fine on Ol' Red. No really noticeable improvement other than it did clean up the idle a little. My main reason was the rev limiter.

And I have to wonder about the advance/hard start thng. I'm running close to 18* initial and Red will pop off right now when it's hot. Original GM starter that was installed in December of 1968 when it was built. And that's never been apart.
 
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Hi Tim, I'll mess some more with the timing and try a little more advance. I'll need to get one of those timing tapes - that should make the job a little easier. I am trying not to make too many changes at once. the carb seems to be finally setup correctly, I have the new advance can and the heavy springs on the weights....
With 18* initial (with or without vacuum connected?) - what's your total advance ??
 
MYBAD79 said:
Hi Tim, I'll mess some more with the timing and try a little more advance. I'll need to get one of those timing tapes - that should make the job a little easier. I am trying not to make too many changes at once. the carb seems to be finally setup correctly, I have the new advance can and the heavy springs on the weights....
With 18* initial (with or without vacuum connected?) - what's your total advance ??
Click to expand...

Should be 36* mech, 52* total with vacuum. 34* with fast burning heads.
 
I don't have any vacuum advance. Total is right at 41*. remember that I'm running 12.5:1 compression, lots of cam, aluminum heads, and 110 octane gas too. I've played around with timing a bit and the BB seems to really like the 39-41* so there it is.
 
TimAT said:
I don't have any vacuum advance. Total is right at 41*. remember that I'm running 12.5:1 compression, lots of cam, aluminum heads, and 110 octane gas too. I've played around with timing a bit and the BB seems to really like the 39-41* so there it is.
Click to expand...

Toys of old, when Knights were bold, and Liquor was quicker.....

:crylol::1st::evil:
 
mrvette said:
TimAT said:
I don't have any vacuum advance. Total is right at 41*. remember that I'm running 12.5:1 compression, lots of cam, aluminum heads, and 110 octane gas too. I've played around with timing a bit and the BB seems to really like the 39-41* so there it is.
Click to expand...

Toys of old, when Knights were bold, and Liquor was quicker.....

:crylol::1st::evil:
Click to expand...

They were BRUTAL also. Tim's Big Red runs hard and attracts a crowd where ever he goes--at least here in Kalifornia. :smash::thumbs:
 
BRUTAL64 said:
mrvette said:
TimAT said:
I don't have any vacuum advance. Total is right at 41*. remember that I'm running 12.5:1 compression, lots of cam, aluminum heads, and 110 octane gas too. I've played around with timing a bit and the BB seems to really like the 39-41* so there it is.
Click to expand...

Toys of old, when Knights were bold, and Liquor was quicker.....

:crylol::1st::evil:
Click to expand...

They were BRUTAL also. Tim's Big Red runs hard and attracts a crowd where ever he goes--at least here in Kalifornia. :smash::thumbs:
Click to expand...

What that song?? 'Where have all the hotrods gone?...Long time passing'....something like that.....

not that the new ones aren't better, but they ALL could be better YET, both in MPG and overall engine performance....

but my suggestions would not be PC, so will never fly....

:eek::cussing:
 
If I could afford a correct fuel injection system I'd probably give that a shot too. No problem with the new tech stuff, but it is fun to fool around with the way we did things 30 years ago too.

Heck, if I run across an old Crower/Hilborn mechanical injection, that brand new hood is going to be hanging on the wall next to the old hood. I'll find an old junker hood to cut a hole in.
 
I have seen pix of Stu's finest with electronic injectors off the side where the old pissers went....

I had a mega buck laying around, it would be on my car NOW....

:yahoo::devil:
 
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