LS Swap in 78 Vette

The response I got from the VA tech.

Go through the calibrations procedure on page 11 of the link below and see if anything changes. If the system did work for several years then quit, I would guess it would be something in the ECU. You may want to remove the ECU and do a visual inspection – look inside the ECU case and look for any corrosion to the board. If it all looks good, I would recommend sending the ECU to us to test.



http://www.vintageair.com/INSTRUCTIONS/68-76 Corvette/903177 REV A 12.09.09.pdf
 
In the updated version, they instruct you to calibrate regardless. Also, if you accidentally ground the calibration wire, it can screw up the settings.
 
Garys 68 said:
DC3,
I had problems with the air doors, temp, and fan on my VA AC.
There's a calibration procedure that they started including in their manual recently. I had to do it on mine this spring and everything worked after that. It involves grounding an unlabeled wire and moving the controls.
Click to expand...

When I first installed the system, I had the same problem as Donnie with regard to air only out of the floor vents. I tried the calibration procedure several times but it never worked. I ended up sending the ECU back to VA. They tested it and said there were no problems with it. So, I double checked all connections and when I re-installed the ECU, this time the calibration procedure went off without a hitch and the mode control started working properly. Because it was hot outside at the time, I never thought to check the temp control. I'm betting on another loose/bad connection. Apparently the VA connections are bit finicky but once you get them right they stay right.

DC
 
Dakota Digital

Got a good start on the Dakota Digital install today. Not a drop in by any means but not to bad. Had to cut the speedo and tach holes to make the new pods fit. The gauges have the stand offs about 1/4 to long but don't think that will matter. Need to complete the shifter linkage for the gear indicator.
 

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donnie_19 said:
Got a good start on the Dakota Digital install today.
Click to expand...

Gauges are looking good.

I see in a couple of the pics that the duct tape on the AC duct is already coming loose. I went to Home Depot or Lowes, can't remember, and picked up some metal foil tape when I installed my VA. That stuff is fantastic and won't come loose like regular duct tape which apparently and ironically can't be used on ducts successfully.

DC
 
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DC3 said:
donnie_19 said:
Got a good start on the Dakota Digital install today.
Click to expand...

Guages are looking good.

I see in a couple of the pics that the duct tape on the AC duct is already coming loose. I went to Home Depot or Lowes, can't remember, and picked up some metal foil tape when I installed my VA. That stuff is fantastic and won't come loose like regular duct tape which apparently and ironically can't be used on ducts successfully.

DC
Click to expand...

Sounds good going to get some today before I put the dash back in.
 
You will like digital, was going to put them in my 82 before I decided to cut the car up.

Here were mine, 2001 technologies is who made mine

Yours look a helluva lot harder to hook up then mine, mine used original sending units and inline VSS sensor and simple tapping into original dash cluster wires.

DSCF0870.jpg

DSCF0915.jpg

DSCF0922.jpg
 
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Not so simple as had to tap into some of the wiring for some parts. Install new coolant and oil sensors. Then jump a couple wires to get the alt to charge. Thanks to Bullshark for getting me straightened out.
Got all the gauges working except setting the Speedo and Odometer. Has a hook up for engine warning that needs a signal from the Holley ECU.
Hope to straighten out the VA tomorrow and put the Fiero Seats in.
I have a C3 that the clock works.
 

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Bad battery?

Seems like I now have a battery drain or bad battery. Only getting 10 volts from gauge. 11.5 at Alt. Had it on trickle charge all night and it would have normally charged in 6-7 hours.
Had 13.5 volts last night.
 
Left the trickle charge on all night and this morning had 11 volts on the gauge. Gauge shows 13 volts when running. Got all the dakota digital gauges set and the Fiero seats installed. Going to rework the old Fiero seat slides so they sit lower.
 
Garys 68 said:
So it needed the 3rd wire hooked up as well as the resistor?
Click to expand...

I only hooked the resistor between B and C according to 2001 truck alt.
Double checked last night to make sure no other bulbs were lit with key off. I do have a few items with some draw, amps for stereo, digital clock.
 
Battery Drain

Don't think its a drain. Load tested battery and it didn't drop below 12.5 volts. Also charged complete with trickle chargers so thinking its the gauge. Shows 13.5 when running and same at Alt when I check with meter.
Not going to worry about it for now and will keep it on the charger if not driving for several days.
Next mod is going to be electric headlight actuators. The current vacuum doesn't seem to pull enough to open. If I give them some assist they pop open. The LS is pretty sensitive to vacuum leaks so out with all the hoses. Will start looking for 93-97 ford probe actuators. This will be my first ford parts on this restro.
 
Blew a fuse to the fuel pump yesterday. Have to figure out why and small amount of gas was leaking by the filter regulator. Had to get towed home. On the good side did get the steering fixed by installing a new borgeson drag link.
 
Pulled the fuel pump and sending unit. Routed a new heavier gauge wire up to relay for pump. The original wire I ran looked to be smashed in one spot so must have not had it routed very well. Double checked all my connection and reinstalled. Going to run a amp test on the fuel pump
 
Headlights and Auto to 6 speed conversion

Currently have around 700 miles on the build. Been stranded a few times but the fixes are quick once I get towed. Last time the battery cable on starter loosened up and it wouldnt start. My to do list is getting shorter.
Bullshark and I spent several hours trying to get the headlights to work. We double checked all components, hoses, and used an electric vacuum pump. With a vacuum gauge system needs around 14 inches of mercury to function properly. My engine only produces 11 so lights only come part way and stall. Engine/cam set up just doesn't make enough vacuum. Going to install electric actuators to solve the problem.
Seriously thinking of installing 6 speed this winter. My 2004R works ok but just not the fun factor I would like. Engine runs around 1800 rpm at 70 mph. How challenging is will this install be? Pricing for these components is all over the place.
 
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