LS Swap in 78 Vette

Hopefully have the last piece of the puzzle. Got my inline radiator tee-cap. This needs to be the highest point in the cooling system. Will try and post a video after start up this afternoon.
On a good note got the Fiero seats mostly covered and need to make the brackets for mounting.
 

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Engine sounds good.

Had a defective IAC and it was wired wrong on the harness. Got that straightened out and ran the engine for about 10 minutes a couple of times. Got the fans and engine cooling system all working. Need to get the Holley EFI to go into closed loop to self learn. Engine sounds good.
 
Holley kind of steered me in the right direction. Had the cam sensor wired backwards. Drove around for a couple of miles tonight. Had the PCV hooked up and it was sucking oil like crazy and smoking. Removed the lines from the Throttle Body and all seems to be better. Getting new plugs in the morning. Going to modify the PCV system to accommodate the bigger cam http://ls1tech.com/forums/11059703-post70.html
 
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Power Steering Fluid leaking

The power steering pump pulley fell off the PS pump yesterday but didn't damage anything else. The pulley and bushing separated. Getting new bushing made and maybe tig weld bushing or loctite to keep bushing and pulley from separating in the future. Going to double check the belt alignment. The pump turned easily by hand. Since the end of PS shaft is threaded I might install a bolt and washer as insurance.
I had a very slight leak at the jeep box on the pressure side. It wasn't to bad so instead of fix, I was so anxious to drive I didn't fix it. I now have time so removed the fitting yesterday and there is an o ring on the fitting. It appears OK but wondered if it might be to small. The fluid is clear but I have about 4 fittings so how do I figure out which on leaks? It doesn't appear to be at the elbow but either the fitting that goes in the box or one of the AN fittings? Should I teflon tape the fittings?
 

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The fittings on the box and pump should be metric O ring, no teflon tape needed. Where are you using AN fittings?
 
Cant see well in the pic. So you've got metric O ring to AN fitting adapter?
Check to make sure the AN junction is clean of debris and tight.
No teflon tape needed on either.
 
Here is a better pic. Appears to be leaking from either the bottom fitting or blue fitting.
 

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Just to double check, your steering box is metric o ring and not SAE inverted flair, correct?
 
Finally got to drive again last night for a few miles. Still smoking a little but need to get all the oil burned out of the intake. Got the engine good and warmed up. Have the PCV system venting to atmosphere until I get a catch can figured out. Need to bleed the brakes and figure out my vacuum for the headlights and check the transmission pressures and adjust the TV cable. Ready to start putting a few miles on.
 
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A few steps forwards and then back.

Good news no damage to any other parts but upon further inspection it appears the PS pump is not turning freely as it should. Bought it used so go figure. Picking up a rebuilt tomorrow and will reassemble. The Holley LS Swap Alt/PS bracket is touching the upper A arm on the driver side. Will have to remove today and grind some relief.
Got the Vintage Air ready for freon, ground problem. Need to bleed the brakes and figure out where another vacuum leak. Headlights don't work. Also need to check pressure on transmission and get the TV cable adjusted. Making progress and when serpentine belt is in place it starts right up.
 

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Making some headway towards road worthiness. Got the brakes bled and went for a short test ride, transmission cooler line came off and made a big mess. Don't have to worry about the new front end parts rusting. Cleaned up the mess, tightned all hose clamps and topped off the tranny with fluid and drove about 100 miles. Went to get it aligned and found out the rear is way out of alignment and had to order shims. While at the alignment shop the dumbass tech broke my hood release lever. Took me a couple of hours but with the use of Bullsharks lift and my small carpenter square I got the hood open.
Need to get my pressure guage hooked up and get the TV cable adjusted.
 
Tach not working

Did I damage my tach board? My tach is now pegged and didn't move when I hooked it up per the instructions from Holley I followed.
" A28 (P1A connector) blue/white wire - EST/Spout Output operates a tachometer.
It's already "wired in" to the 10-wire ignition connector - cavity H.
It outputs a 12V square wave, same as the Tach Out on an MSD box. No adapter required.
Some factory OEM tachometers may need a "tach signal amplifier" to function properly."
 
Another step backwards and rant, all hell breaks loose.

Drove the vette to the engine builder on Friday eve. Asked him about the valve train noise and he thought the push rods were to short and that was the cause. Told me it was ok to drive but need to shim the rockers until the noise went away. No big deal I am thinking. Drove home and then the next morning going to get alignment after all the front end work and all hell breaks loose about 1/2 mile from home. Big bang from engine so I shut down and coast to stop. Borrow trailer from neighbor and load vette and take to engine builder. Pulled valve covers and find a broken valve spring and the valve jammed up through the head. He immediately blames the machine shop for installing the wrong springs. I am going to machine shop first thing in the morning to figure out what happened. I need to replace a head and get the correct springs and push rods. The ends of the bent push rod didn't appear to be flat or scarred like it failed first. Looks like spring broke then valve fell out of valve guide.
Pulled the head this afternoon. Found a little ding on the top of the piston a small nick in the cylinder wall.
Now the rant. I didn't pick the components but thought I had a reliable engine builder that knew what he was doing. Told him what I wanted the engine to do so he picked the cam and pistons and sent me to the machine shop that bored the block and reworked the heads. The communication was supposed to be the engine builder talking with the machines shop, at that point I was only the delivery driver.
I think the machine shop should have known what springs were required as he had the cam spec sheet. The engine assembler should have known or measured for correct push rod length. I get to pick up the pieces and pay for their mistakes.
 
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Sucks

Too bad it isn't possible to make one of them responsible for the mistake. You paid them for a job well done, not a job half baked...

I'd probably avoid one if not both parties from here on out. If whoever was the one at fault and they were worth half their weight in salt they would have stepped up and fixed their problem, no charge.
 
As I figured the Machine shop is blaming the engine assembler for specifying the springs.
 
What was the problem with the springs?
If the builder specified the springs and machine shop installed them, it should be on the builders dime.
 
Yes, it's the builders fault not the machine shop. Sounds like there was insufficient retainer to guide clearance or the springs got into coil bind. The machine shop probably didn't know what cam went in there. I don't see why you should have to pick up the tab for the builders mistake.
 
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