LS Swap in 78 Vette

A Arms back on the frame and Vintage is leveled and temporary in the passenger compartment.
Ran into a small problem the jeep box retro. The universal I ordered from Borgeson was two small to fit my steering column shaft. U joint is about .020 to small. Returning to Summit. May try another universal or just go back to a rag joint.

When doing my rack install ten years ago, I just pulled a ton of Ujoints out of a local junkyard, so as to mix/match and restake the bearings....works like a charm....

I spoke with Borgeson on Friday and they told me they only had 1 size for this application and it measured .990 so it should slide on my .980 shaft as long as splines are straight. The one I got from Summit measured .970 but didn't want to get into a discussion that maybe their broach was worn out when that part was made.
Don't know if its possible to even find a combination since its a 1-48 spline by 18mm DD u joint.
When I go to the local junk yards today if its not in the computer they don't think it ever existed. I don't even know of a junk yard in this area where you can go in the yard and remove parts by yourself, let alone find one that has 35 year old usable parts.

Got the second Borgeson U joint today and same thing to small for my steering column shaft. Going to get after it tomorrow with some smaller wire brushes and files.
 
Got the second Borgeson U joint today and same thing to small for my steering column shaft. Going to get after it tomorrow with some smaller wire brushes and files.
Took me some massaging too. with a tiny pointy files, was more about scraping out the gunk than removing metal.
 
Got the second Borgeson U joint today and same thing to small for my steering column shaft. Going to get after it tomorrow with some smaller wire brushes and files.
Took me some massaging too. with a tiny pointy files, was more about scraping out the gunk than removing metal.
I bought a couple wire brush attachments for my dremel and will give the ends of the splines a good clean up today. The second option would be to use a smooth bore for the 1" size. There is a flat on the steering shaft that the set screw clamps down on. Could drill and tap for an additional set screw or pin it.
 

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The new U Joint would not fit after extensive cleaning the splines with dremel wire brush, so on with plan B. Bore the Borgeson to 1" and add another set screw. Then grind another flat on steering column shaft.
The B&M Shifter is mounted and everything on top looks good. Notched the tunnel area and dropped the shifter 1 3/4 to make it clear the console plate. Need to make a couple more brackets to stiffen the side movement and cut a notch for the shifter cable. Once I verify the rest of clearance will make the permanent brackets and seal the bottom tunnel area.
Removed the last 2 body mounts with sawzall and ready to jack up the body next.
 

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Trans cooler?

Need to add a new trans oil cooler for my 2004R. Lots to chose from. At this point should I bypass the radiator and go straight to the oil cooler? What size should I get? Since I am going with dual electric fans I will have one on that side moving air through the radiator, ac condenser and oil cooler.
 
I've always kept the internal radiator trans cooler, they generally come with a fitting to T into one of the lines. I've only ever found they're really needed for towing. Most aftermarket coolers reccoment mounting in front of the radiator. But with the vette, you're going to have the additional depth of the Vintage AC condenser. If you mount it in front of that check for hood clearance where the front of the hood tilts under the front cowl area.
 
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I've always kept the internal radiator trans cooler, they generally come with a fitting to T into one of the lines. I've only ever found they're really needed for towing. Most aftermarket coolers reccoment mounting in front of the radiator. But with the vette, you're going to have the additional depth of the Vintage AC condenser. If you mount it in front of that check for hood clearance where the front of the hood tilts under the front cowl area.

I had a cooler on my old set up but going with a new condenser with the VA. The transmission manufacturer recommends an additional cooler for the 2004R.
 
Made more progress today. Got most of the body raised enough to get the body mounts in place. Need to get 3 1/2 in bolts for body mounts 2 & 3. Not enough thread.
Reworked the B&M shifter mount and think I have enough clearance now. Need some guidance on wiring the neutral switch and back up lights. Making an enclosure for the underside out of sheet metal.
 
Fuel Delivery ?

Going to start working on the fuel system since I have the body raised on the passenger side to replace the body mounts. I bought the Dorman tubing kit with 3/8 and 5 1/6 line. I am using the LS 6 manifold which doesn't have a return line. I have the Walbro Pump GSL 392 that came with my Holley EFI. Is this pump adequate? It is rated at 60 PSI. What does 255 LPH mean? Should I use the Combo Fuel Filter regulator to return the fuel to tank? These regulate the fuel pressure to 58 PSI.[ame]http://www.amazon.com/Wix-33737-Complete-In-Line-Filter/dp/B000C9UJUU/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1359642072&sr=1-1&keywords=fuel+filter+regulator+corvette[/ame] Should I use part of the old steel fuel line that runs along the frame rail or replace with new?
 

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lph = liters per hour

yes use the combo filter/regulator. Check out my 82 LS1 swap thread I used it and there's a note about plumbing that thing. There's some bad info on the web about whatit's the inlet and the return. I would run a new 3/8 line and flare it for AN hardware

I used an aeromotive stealth in tank pump, it has a 90psi dead head pressure rating. Yours is on the ragged edge.
 
Lots of people are using the 255lph walbro pumps. The pressure maintains 60psi up to 255lph. 255lph will support a lot of hp.
 
oh wait, you have this now? IMO it's rated too low

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/vpn-gsl392

The stock 82-84 crossfire cars had low rated fuel pumps from the factory, new barely capable of delivering what was needed. These cars have been plagued and as such ridiculed and put away as crap because of that. A LOT of the issues concerning those cars are fuel pump related and idiots working on them

A system pressure of nearly 60psi needs a better pump than 60pse DEAD HEAD!!! Now flowing, dead head pressure
 
I'm running the Walbro on both my swaps. They operate at over 60 psi. The flow rate drops off to 255lph (65 gal/hr) at 60psi.
Check out the graph here:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/WALBRO-255L...Parts_Accessories&hash=item53da1dabe4&vxp=mtr
I think you have to be well over 500hp or running a boosted application (where you need more psi) to need more than the walbro 255. You might check to see if your injectors could even deliver over 255lph at 100% duty cycle.
 
I'm running the Walbro on both my swaps. They operate at over 60 psi. The flow rate drops off to 255lph (65 gal/hr) at 60psi.
Check out the graph here:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/WALBRO-255L...Parts_Accessories&hash=item53da1dabe4&vxp=mtr
I think you have to be well over 500hp or running a boosted application (where you need more psi) to need more than the walbro 255. You might check to see if your injectors could even deliver over 255lph at 100% duty cycle.

Ended up getting the Holley 12-920 In-Line Electric Fuel Pump and the Wix 33737 Complete In-Line Fuel Filter. Talked with Holley about this as I am using the Holley HP.
Will I goofed up again. The pump that came with the kit was Walbro GSL-392 which is the same thing as 12-920 so Going to return the one I bought.
Also going to mount the Holley ECU in the engine bay. I have a lot of room now that the old AC unit is out of the way.
 
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Removed the spare tire carrier today and started to drain the gas so I can drop the tank and work on fuel delivery. Also worked on the shifter side guards. Going to test fit the trans just to be sure but should have about 1/2 to 3/4" clearance. Prototyped a top console plate and also planning on insulating the tunnel area to help with heat reduction.
 

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Spare tire carrier removed and ready to tackle the fuel lines. Should I drop the fuel tank to route new fuel lines? I started siphoning the gas out yesterday.
 
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