new build pics of 409

One things for sure.

It's so fast, it flew right of the pages here.:skeptic:
 
like I said before, just turn the block upside down, drill and be done.... definitely not the end of the world... and definitely not worth the attitude :smash:
 
It's just amazing how a simple thing can just turn into such an ordeal. Drill a hole,don't drill a hole :eek:
I am going to stick with my machinist recommendations and run a high volume water pump. It's pretty clear that even Fel Pro suggest doing it as well. Or i can take Darrow's advice and move to Alaska and problem solved, thanks for that helpful advice Darrow LOL.
There is more than one way to build a motor correctly,everybody has their advice,do's and donts, a friend said this etc etc. You have to have faith in your machinist/engine builder and go with his advice,you start veering from him and doing what others say because they think it's best, bad things will start happening. Thats been my experience anyway.
And BTW. I am not new to the engine world and this is not first rodeo. Nor do i know everything.

This is my .02 worth
 
And BTW. I am not new to the engine world and this is not first rodeo. Nor do i know everything.

This is my .02 worth

I have seen the results of guys not following the porcedure of the holes in the decks and its not good.

I bet that will never be over looked again!!!!


Good luck with you build
 
I just got off the phone with Brodix to confirm what they had told me. Quote. do not drill the block or the heads, follow the procedure on their web site,punch out the holes in the gasket. And was also told to run a high volume water pump.
here is a link,scroll down to the pic of the head,and it has directions on how to do it.
http://www.brodix.com/gaskets/gaskets.php#Anchor-head

Now. I have been told by 3 engine builders,and Brodix to do this modification.
 
For those forum members who are interested in my build and want the pics back up. As soon as this debate is over with,I will post them back up,and more as i put the engine together.
I will start a new thread,since this one has gotten off track a bit.
 
I just got off the phone with Brodix to confirm what they had told me. Quote. do not drill the block or the heads, follow the procedure on their web site,punch out the holes in the gasket. And was also told to run a high volume water pump.
here is a link,scroll down to the pic of the head,and it has directions on how to do it.
http://www.brodix.com/gaskets/gaskets.php#Anchor-head

Now. I have been told by 3 engine builders,and Brodix to do this modification.


Water-Cir-Holes.jpg


BRODIX® heads do not have steam holes drilled in them; however, the head gasket can be modified to eliminate the need for steam holes.

This example shows six holes in the deck of a BRODIX small block head. Lay a head gasket on the deck, noting where the gasket covers the holes in the deck: punch 3/8" holes in the head gasket. This procedure can be done to both head gaskets to improve water circulation.

Maybe I am looking at this wrong but drilling a 3/8 hole where #2 is will not work without having the hole drilled in the deck.

Your talking about steam holes we are talking about two different things here.

Look over this link
http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/90678_small_block_400_cooling_tricks/index.html



How many of you take the time to neatly open a new package of anything? Now how many of you actually take the time to glance or (dare we say) read the directions that came with your new package of anything. Yeah, we didn't think so, but that's OK because we're generally guilty of the same thing. So imagine our surprise when we did take the time to look at the Fel-Pro gasket installation tips for our small-block.

According to Fel-Pro, most head-gasket failures occur between the two center cylinders. This is because the small-block Chevy locates two exhaust ports adjacent to each other between the two center cylinders. This concentrates a tremendous amount of heat in this one location, which can cause the head gasket to fail.

In order to redirect additional coolant between these two center cylinders, Fel-Pro added a large 7/16-inch hole just below and between them. In addition, the center coolant hole above the center cylinders was enlarged to 7/16 inch. To ensure that additional coolant flows through these holes, Fel-Pro also restricted water flow through the lower holes between the center and outer cylinders. Combine these changes with a high-performance water pump, such as the excellent piece from Edelbrock, and you have a much more efficient cooling system.

These modifications to the head-gasket cooling system are only found on the performance line of Fel-Pro head gaskets. The stock replacement head gaskets feature the normal coolant hole passages. If you are considering more compression, a supercharger, nitrous, or a turbo, these high-performance gaskets with the redirected coolant passages are probably an excellent choice.



Read more: http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/t...k_400_cooling_tricks/index.html#ixzz1vug7VcLK
 
For those forum members who are interested in my build and want the pics back up. As soon as this debate is over with,I will post them back up,and more as i put the engine together.
I will start a new thread,since this one has gotten off track a bit.

Don't worry about a new thread, I'll clean this one up ... good to see the pissing match seems to be over .... :drink: :drink:
 
ok, now that we're done sanitizing :D

is there any negative effect if you drill the holes ???

The instructions say to only make one change at a time, now if you don't monitor the temperature in this exact location how would you know ???
 
ok, now that we're done sanitizing :D

is there any negative effect if you drill the holes ???

The instructions say to only make one change at a time, now if you don't monitor the temperature in this exact location how would you know ???

Fel Pro says make one change at a time. How you monitor it? I have no idea.
Now talking with a tech at Brodix for a 2nd time, they say do not drill the extra hole in the deck,just drill out the holes in the gasket and run a high volume pump,and everything will be fine. Now how did they come up with this? dont know, but it's their head i am running so i am going to follow their direction.

I have searched web on this cooling issue, and there are a bunch of different approaches to it, Heck one guy had extra coolant lines running from the back of the intake to the water pump,said his NASCAR engine builder buddy told him to do this
 
Carl on that #2 hole. when i get a chance i will lay the gasket on the head and take a pic and post so we can take a look at it.
 
Heck one guy had extra coolant lines running from the back of the intake to the water pump,said his NASCAR engine builder buddy told him to do this

I've seen that on a lot of race car pics. Hell, I think Howard's car was that way.
 
Heck one guy had extra coolant lines running from the back of the intake to the water pump,said his NASCAR engine builder buddy told him to do this

I've seen that on a lot of race car pics. Hell, I think Howard's car was that way.

Im sure it works, might be a bit over kill for my needs. my intake has the holes in it to do this,and i even have the T/stat housing to hook the lines up to, have not decided yet if i will use it. Went to the local race shop today and purchased the same aluminum water pump the modified and late model cars run. If it can keep them cool,should work good for me. was not that expensive either,surprising.
 
Carl on that #2 hole. when i get a chance i will lay the gasket on the head and take a pic and post so we can take a look at it.

Thanks hopefully you can make some head way and get you engine together with out any problems.
 
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Heck one guy had extra coolant lines running from the back of the intake to the water pump,said his NASCAR engine builder buddy told him to do this

I've seen that on a lot of race car pics. Hell, I think Howard's car was that way.

Im sure it works, might be a bit over kill for my needs. my intake has the holes in it to do this,and i even have the T/stat housing to hook the lines up to, have not decided yet if i will use it.

No brainer. Do it.
 
Heck one guy had extra coolant lines running from the back of the intake to the water pump,said his NASCAR engine builder buddy told him to do this

I've seen that on a lot of race car pics. Hell, I think Howard's car was that way.

Im sure it works, might be a bit over kill for my needs. my intake has the holes in it to do this,and i even have the T/stat housing to hook the lines up to, have not decided yet if i will use it. Went to the local race shop today and purchased the same aluminum water pump the modified and late model cars run. If it can keep them cool,should work good for me. was not that expensive either,surprising.


Kevin, can you share where you went? Tim told me about a neat place in KCK that had the stuff I needed last year. Just curious about other shops in the area that might be reasonably convenient to stop in at too.
 
Heck one guy had extra coolant lines running from the back of the intake to the water pump,said his NASCAR engine builder buddy told him to do this

I've seen that on a lot of race car pics. Hell, I think Howard's car was that way.

Im sure it works, might be a bit over kill for my needs. my intake has the holes in it to do this,and i even have the T/stat housing to hook the lines up to, have not decided yet if i will use it.

No brainer. Do it.

Those lines look like crap and tip off tech inspectors that you have something special. I doubt he plans to be at wide open throttle for 30 minutes straight.
 
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