new build pics of 409

big2bird said:
I've seen that on a lot of race car pics. Hell, I think Howard's car was that way.
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ask and ye shall receive (if I did this right) my water lines run from the center lower head bolts to the water pump and from the front to the rear of the intake, remember I have 18* heads

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134fc11212d6e41.jpg
 
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Actually most if not all 18 deg heads come with a boss or a pad there to drill for the outlet. It's not that big a deal, simple NPT fitting. Next to impossible to screw up.
 
[/QUOTE] It takes balls to put a drill to $4000 heads.[/QUOTE]

Marck is correct the heads came drilled & tapped, I did the MacKay waterpump.
 
Twin_Turbo said:
Actually most if not all 18 deg heads come with a boss or a pad there to drill for the outlet. It's not that big a deal, simple NPT fitting. Next to impossible to screw up.
Click to expand...

I'm going to disagree with that. You can easily pop (crack) aluminum overtightening a tapered fitting. Teflon tape is discouraged as it lubricates too well and thus provides too much pressure on the hole per a given torque.

Howard said (if i did this right) so i assumed he did the drilling.

These mods are circle track/dirt tricks and have more risk than reward (in my opinion) for a street engine for the reasons i stated early on. I wouldn't drill any holes in anything.

I know you like doing this kind of thing because it gives the "race car" look you want.
 
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redvetracr said:
big2bird said:
I've seen that on a lot of race car pics. Hell, I think Howard's car was that way.
Click to expand...

ask and ye shall receive (if I did this right) my water lines run from the center lower head bolts to the water pump and from the front to the rear of the intake, remember I have 18* heads

134fc112129ff6f.jpg


134fc11212d6e41.jpg
Click to expand...

Dang Howard thanks for posting those pic's, because there is something i did not think of. Why should i run lines to a raised T/Stat housing,when i can run the same set up you have, water line from the back of the intake to the front of the intake. Any reason why i cannot do this???
My intake has the holes in it already. I am not comfortable with drilling my Brodix heads.
 
kwplot34 said:
Dang Howard thanks for posting those pic's, because there is something i did not think of. Why should i run lines to a raised T/Stat housing,when i can run the same set up you have, water line from the back of the intake to the front of the intake. Any reason why i cannot do this???
My intake has the holes in it already. I am not comfortable with drilling my Brodix heads.
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I don`t have any pics because I recently sold the motor BUT my old 23* head motor had water lines from the top of the t-stat housing to the top of the head at the center, the intake was machined in the very center on both sides and some holes were drilled on the intake manifold side of the heads....those were Brodix heads also and that motor (well the top end) was from the very early 80`s
 
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turtlevette said:
Twin_Turbo said:
Actually most if not all 18 deg heads come with a boss or a pad there to drill for the outlet. It's not that big a deal, simple NPT fitting. Next to impossible to screw up.
Click to expand...

I'm going to disagree with that. You can easily pop (crack) aluminum overtightening a tapered fitting. Teflon tape is discouraged as it lubricates too well and thus provides too much pressure on the hole per a given torque.

Howard said (if i did this right) so i assumed he did the drilling.

These mods are circle track/dirt tricks and have more risk than reward (in my opinion) for a street engine for the reasons i stated early on. I wouldn't drill any holes in anything.

I know you like doing this kind of thing because it gives the "race car" look you want.
Click to expand...


Who said anything about tightening an NPT fitting? You were taking about drilling a head and NPT must be about the easiest thread to tap. Teflon tape, you are not joe the plumber are you??? Seriously...

I do not have a single engine with center drilled coolant passages or steam lines connecting the front and the rear. Where do you come up with this bullshit?
 
OK. I am lost now. Howard has a pic of engine with coolant lines running from the back of the intake to the front of the intake, I have these holes in my intake,should i do this? OR should i use the raised T/Stat housing i have,and run the lines from the back of the intake to the T/Stat housing. Will any of these help me with keeping the engine cool??
 
kwplot34 said:
OK. I am lost now. Howard has a pic of engine with coolant lines running from the back of the intake to the front of the intake, I have these holes in my intake,should i do this? OR should i use the raised T/Stat housing i have,and run the lines from the back of the intake to the T/Stat housing. Will any of these help me with keeping the engine cool??
Click to expand...

Those lines equalize the temps front to rear, rear always tends to run a little hotter because cold coolant comes in front. For a street car, waste o time IMO
 
Twin_Turbo said:
kwplot34 said:
OK. I am lost now. Howard has a pic of engine with coolant lines running from the back of the intake to the front of the intake, I have these holes in my intake,should i do this? OR should i use the raised T/Stat housing i have,and run the lines from the back of the intake to the T/Stat housing. Will any of these help me with keeping the engine cool??
Click to expand...

Those lines equalize the temps front to rear, rear always tends to run a little hotter because cold coolant comes in front. For a street car, waste o time IMO
Click to expand...

Thank you for the clarification:D
 
[/quote]

Yup, they use this kind of water pump, it's an Adams unit

24fc15e51e84b7.jpg[/QUOTE]


does that Adams pump take -8 or -10 lines?
 
-10 or -12 .. will have to check

The normal opening to the bliock is plugged by screw in plugs with o rings, all the water enters the block on the side, none where the pump bolts to the block. There is no internal bypass either, that's what the blue one on the top is for, just like on a BBC
 
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