Plastic Fantastic 2

Red77 said:
Are you able to roll a little bead towards the end of the tubes to help with hose and clamp retention or do you think it'll hold well enough without it? I always worry that a good pressure surge will blow it off. We have several liquid cooled transformers at work that have copper tubing on the coolant passages and they often are just straight wall tubes with no bead and air bubble/pressure surges will blow them off and that can and has been catastrophic for the equipment. I'd hate to see that happen on your big block!
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if you run your TIG torch around the lip, it makes a nice rolled edge too.... I haven't done it yet because I want to be sure I don't have to weld a bend in place.....
 
TIGged bead or rolled, I love the ingenuity shared on this forum!
 
This is more for my reference - but I'll share so others might get the thrill of fiberglass work.... I use West systems, but the 407/404 filler to build up gaps is new to me.edited I've been using Vette stuff, but I'm not thrilled with its strength..... this should be better
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hn5bFmh2vx4[/ame]
 
Thanks for posting. I have to do this pretty soon on my car.

Seems like there might be a better way to fill the gap with the door closed and a silicone spacer to make the gap (rather than grinding/close door/grind.....).
 
BBShark said:
Thanks for posting. I have to do this pretty soon on my car.

Seems like there might be a better way to fill the gap with the door closed and a silicone spacer to make the gap (rather than grinding/close door/grind.....).
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that's a great idea, if I get there before you - I'll let you know how it works...
 
Some of the guys on the other forum seem to really like Vette Panel Adhesive for closing up minor gaps. I have no experience with either, so thanks for posting this. I've got lots of gaps to work on to get it right.
 
Red77 said:
Some of the guys on the other forum seem to really like Vette Panel Adhesive for closing up minor gaps. I have no experience with either, so thanks for posting this. I've got lots of gaps to work on to get it right.
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I'm using VPA - I'm not convinced it's the best, it's also why I used 8115 to bond the flares on.... VPA doesn't seem any stronger then bondo - so for corners and edges, I'm afraid it won't stand the test of time.
 
SuperBuickGuy said:
BBShark said:
Thanks for posting. I have to do this pretty soon on my car.

Seems like there might be a better way to fill the gap with the door closed and a silicone spacer to make the gap (rather than grinding/close door/grind.....).
Click to expand...

that's a great idea, if I get there before you - I'll let you know how it works...
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Pretty sure you will get there first. You have made more progress this year than I have made in the last 10!
 
back.... time to power up the FItech
success
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it all works, now just needs a fuel inlet and the radiator permanently installed.... 'just'
 
so how to make something that is as simple as cutting apart take 5x longer... use the lathe, of course
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part of the way to finishing the fuel fill
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time to put a lip on it
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remove some brackets
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soon some holders here
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dry run on the filler
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weld some tube together
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so that I can fill the tank
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soon vroom vroom
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In a great mood because of Powermaster's crap electronics, I figured I'd work on the Corvette.... guess what, electronic issues.... ugh
first problem, though, was mechanical.edited Fuel goes in on the driver's side (the other FI tech on my '40 is marked)... 100% chance of getting it wrong was right again
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then wiring, bypassed the clutch switch - system works between it and the starter
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then bypassed the fender switch
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however there is more to find.... I'm really close to jumping from the starter wire on the column to the starter....edited

​​​​​​​ah well, it does sound glorious
 
After sleeping on the issue - I'm going to put a push button starter and wire the system into a switch panel (so I can turn the fuel pump off, etc).
 
SuperBuickGuy said:
After sleeping on the issue - I'm going to put a push button starter and wire the system into a switch panel (so I can turn the fuel pump off, etc).
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minor UX suggestion, instead of a push button, do a kind of "turn knob" ignition system by leaving the key in there,or possibly fabbing up a more stylized key

the cadillac CTS did this
https://youtu.be/DxTQMu9m9Ts?t=103

also some of the aftermarket keyless start systems do this, like the advance keys one
https://advancedkeys.com/Prod_AK105S.html


It's a little more visceral and unique than just a button
 
Check out jegs or summit, they sell a bunch of switch panels for cars. Fused, etc., etc. some basically can replace the fuse box.
 
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