Plastic Fantastic 2

oh what a glorious night

only one way I know that this can happen....
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which brings me to that other, more centrally located cap...
if you say "why is the split on the bearing not at the cap? well,edited
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fudge
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if there's a bright side... pick the one that actually spun
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did you guess?
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/
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you said the one on the right, correct?

wrong..... it's the one on the left... I'm going to replace the crank and call it a day.... is it right? oh hell no, however, there was some machining issues with this motor so I'm not in love with it..... and it'll give me a chance to clean up the wiring and replace the bellhousing with a blow-proof one....


oh, and if the night wasn't just peachy, I noticed this as well
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motor is ready to pull
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​onto more despair
Get the Buick motor off the stand... dammit
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Eventually I'll realize that spinning a bearing kept me from serious injury... which is what would have happened if I'd kept driving this
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I won't say I didn't realize it and wasn't chancing it
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what bugs me the most in all of this was I pushed through knowing it wasn't right... the surface on the block... it was leaking on the inside


heads are off
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no fixing this

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for those who pull motors from Corvettes... this is how

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so decision time. I'm 70% sure the cam is wiped out too, I will send the lifters to be rebuilt and get another cam... or maybe I should say screw it and put hydraulic inside... probably not, I think solid lifters work well for this car.... but decisions.
The other decision is pistons.... I'll buy new rods for certain (better rods) - when I put this together, I realized it didn't have ARP rod bolts... so I'll fix both problems in one shot by even getting a better rod.
The motor has 100 miles on it, so I probably won't do anything with the heads other than clean them up. Surface the block for the Cometic gaskets... I have to balance the new assembly anyway, so the $500 question (and really, it is a $500 question) is do I replace the pistons with a bit more of popup and get the compression ratio to where I wanted it initially? If so, I can use a thicker gasket and not worry so much about the sealing (using a Felpro instead).

The oil leak... pretty sure it was at the distributor...
 
That's a shame - a lot of work. But the car is together and this is just cleaning up a detail or two. You will be happier with a fresh motor and no oil leaks!

Pappy
 
mfain said:
That's a shame - a lot of work. But the car is together and this is just cleaning up a detail or two. You will be happier with a fresh motor and no oil leaks!

Pappy
Click to expand...

I appreciate that... wish I could have your level of knowledge without the pain....
spent a good share of the evening looking at a Land Rover defender... but did get a bit further
I'll call comp cams tomorrow.... I don't think roller cams should wear into the cam - it's their springs.... we will see
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The lifters spin okay, and have no play (these are bushed not roller bearing) but some are a bit dull....
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ready to pull the pistons and crank.... the new crank arrives next week, hopefully I can order the rods and pistons (if I need them)... starting to think I'll just leave it alone and reuse the pistons....
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​​​​​​​
 
Got off the phone with Comp Cams... they're at a loss too as to why there are tracks worn into the cam... it's been 3 years since I bought it, so no warranty, but I don't want to replay this again - and this is the 2nd time the length of the build has bit me.
 
block now free.... seems like I just saw this before...
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the thing is... I could make all this work...edited
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now for the 'fun' part.... to be honest, I'm not in love with the heads, either....edited
 
block now free.... seems like I just saw this before...
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DEJA POO? :banghead:

Well, at least you have the experience to analyze the cause from all the bits and form a plan, and repair. I'd be more like - WTF????

Best of Luck and keep the detail flowing. I'm getting smarter. Thanks.

Cheers - Jim
 
so the decision... better rods (eagle H beam), higher compression pistons (11.0)....Comp cams took pity on me and is sending a discounted-price billet version of what I have now....edited
 
wow were they fast.... supposed to be here in the 16th....edited
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measured it up, all within spec - it's a forged, steel 427 crank
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this is junk.... I'm so tired of getting stuff that just isn't right - and this one springs to the top of 'not right'
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look closely at the pads.... notice there is a step on the hub side?
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also notice the wear?edited
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the 'SFI' (marked right on it) flywheel isn't flat, nor does the inner cut out jive with the disk rotor.edited The measurements... the disk has a 6 5/8 distance between the pads.... that's nearly 7"
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$614 gone..... once I figure out who, I'll publish.
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good news is my wipers arrived and they look like they just might clear
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that sucks .....i had a clutch plate once that the center hole was not concentric and it would jam itself in to the pressure plate.....that really screwed with trying to diagnosing it...

it would spin freely when i would test it but as soon as it got more then 230* of rotation it would be jammed
 
yikes i just caught up.......i picked the one on the right too????

holy cow that sucks....i would still be crying and drinking
 
Pretty sure this flywheel is Summit's in-house brand (left) right is a Centerforce
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big surprise it couldn't deal with any heat
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pretty/sparkly
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Nice stuff. I just had an off-the-wall thought. I was reading an article by Essex on brake rotors. They said if you apply ducted air to the inside face of a brake rotor, with no forced air for the outside surface, then the rotor will develop cracks and will probably "cone" due to uneven heat distribution.. I had a Hayes flywheel "cone" and I was running a Lakewood scatter shield with no front dust cover, so air was hitting the forward side of the flywheel. Now I wonder if the unequal cooling caused a problem that caused the flywheel to bow out in the middle. Were you running a dust cover?
 
I see you say centerforce flywheel, are you using a centerforce clutch? I have an expensive centerforce clutch sitting in a box with under 1000 miles. It would slip no matter what I tried with adjustments. Put in an $700 ram clutch and no more problems.
 
rtj said:
I see you say centerforce flywheel, are you using a centerforce clutch? I have an expensive centerforce clutch sitting in a box with under 1000 miles. It would slip no matter what I tried with adjustments. Put in an $700 ram clutch and no more problems.
Click to expand...

the clutch is Hayes, but given the flywheel - I don't think they got a fair shake. It would slip pretty much at any enthusiastic throttle. The other 'bit' is the pressure plate doesn't have the heat spots (but you can't buy just a disk - even if I could, I won't chance it)
 
mfain said:
Nice stuff. I just had an off-the-wall thought. I was reading an article by Essex on brake rotors. They said if you apply ducted air to the inside face of a brake rotor, with no forced air for the outside surface, then the rotor will develop cracks and will probably "cone" due to uneven heat distribution.. I had a Hayes flywheel "cone" and I was running a Lakewood scatter shield with no front dust cover, so air was hitting the forward side of the flywheel. Now I wonder if the unequal cooling caused a problem that caused the flywheel to bow out in the middle. Were you running a dust cover?
Click to expand...

I don't know, one of the upgrades is a blow-proof Lakewood bellhousing.
 
well, most of the parts are here - so hopefully I can get it to the machinist so I can wait another month
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my shear is unhappy
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why important? well, there's these
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that are part of this
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which are to cover this hole
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lovely... I get to do it by hand
 
Found a machine shop today - I'm hoping this works out.... but at this moment, I think February may come and my parts won't be done
in other news.edited metal work
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need to get a better saw blade tomorrow
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