Plastic Fantastic 2

You probably know about the bronze gear billet cam, but I mention it since I never knew, luckily it isn't an issue when my car was on jack stands. I've since fixed that.
 
these cams are designed so that you don't need a bronze gear... that said, I haven't looked to see if the billet cam requires a soft gear.

in other news, the new crank is bent so badly that it cannot be straightened....
 
SuperBuickGuy said:
these cams are designed so that you don't need a bronze gear... that said, I haven't looked to see if the billet cam requires a soft gear.

in other news, the new crank is bent so badly that it cannot be straightened....
Click to expand...

Okay, good, technology keeps improving. Engine building is something I'll probably never try, but I respect anyone who has the knowledge and ability (and confidence) to do it.
 
I may be moving 600 miles from where I'm at now this year.... so this needs to be done and racing - though maybe not be me... I have 2 possibilities of people I trust and who are skilled enough to run it... but all of this basically means it must be turn key by Feb. 28.... so I started doing the basics of cleaning tonight
a wash
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a bit of scotch wheel
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cleaner
E4X8nlrh.jpg

the other problem is going to be wheels.... Feb. 28 is too soon.
 
assembling pistons
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spiral locks are not fun
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but this makes it better
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but some tips.... it is a two hand device,
- you need to rock the installer to get the rings to slip past the piston
- you should hold onto the spiral lock so it doesn't turn with the tool
- oil is your friend
and it does work... but the first took 45 minutes, I finished the other 7 in 45 minutes
lMwjA82h.jpg
aIerUyRh.jpg
 
time to ask for opinions:
1) what clutch would you recommend? there is a theory that this could make far more than the 700 I estimated (mostly because Engine Masters tested a motor with exactly the same specs (head, cam, compression, bore/stroke) and made north of 850 hp). Disregard that, what clutch for 700 hp?
2) oil accumulators - worth it? I have questions on these. If there's a 3 quart accumulator - does that mean a 7 quart capacity motor has 10 quarts or the motor is running 3 quarters low in the pan?
 
rtj said:
I'm no help on the clutch question, but if I was looking in the future I'd look here since the are pretty competitive in vintage racing.

http://www.duntovmotors.com/vintage-racing-parts-engine_driveline.php

The clutch they are selling isn't cheap but I always say "why stop now?" :)
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I love the thought - but I've driven full-race manual cars, they work very, very well at 10 10ths (to use their notion), but on the street (especially the no-damper-springs) they hurt.

But who knows, maybe I swap the trans and clutch when I go race.... it's not a bad idea at all....
 
Good Question -- Made me look..

Your question caused me to go back and look at my MasterLube Accumulator instructions. Hmm, I found no clarity there or the website - just a quick scan though. Speedway suggests the air charged piston; "...automatically forces up to 3 quarts of reserve oil to the main galleries." So it sound like it adds 3 quarts to total capacity.

There is a lot of reference to the "benefits of pre-lubrication." They cite the reduction of wear from reduced friction as a result of dry starting. I see the Accusump is at about $320 price point on eBay (as low as about $200). Price jumps with enhancements like automatic pressure solenoids etc. to $600.

They are pretty simple, use a pressure bladder inside the container and when the valve opens - forces the oil in the cylinder into the circuit. When the engine is running the oil returns to the cylinder and reserved. In a manual setup - you have one more thing to remember on shutdown. Checklist anyone?

I am moving to a Dry Sump setup, and redvetracr said he had used a primer on his setup. So, I bought a Peterson Remote Filter Mount/Primer. The primer is driven with a cordless drill and should bring the oil pressure up in a few minutes (also useful for oil changes too). ;) There is nothing to do on shutdown so one less checklist item -- but there is the "priming" mentioned earlier. That could be effected with a switch (Red Guarded?) and a 12v motor to drive the priming boss. Added benefit (or challenge) - the oil filter moves to a remote access position.

The price point is pretty much a "push." Maybe comes down to the additional capacity as the deciding factor - which seems to be available.

Best of luck on the deciding! Sorry if I muddied the waters...

Cheers - Jim
 
Clutch thoughts: For street clutches, I have had good luck with McCloud. Their twin-disk RST should handle 700+ hp and still be streetable. For more hp than that (850), I am using a Tilton 7.25 inch, triple disk carbon-carbon unit - not streetable. Quartermaster makes the triple disk clutch that a lot of the guys competing in the Optima challenge use. I also used an Exidy clutch in my track Focus - worked good, but a lot less horsepower. There is a photo of my Tilton in my 56 Vette build thread (the forum would not let me re-post it here).

Below is a description of the McCloud dual disk clutch:

"GM 1-1/8 x26 with Small Block Chevy and Big Block Chevy flywheel pattern
Fits 11" Pattern Flywheel Only

Intended for the high horsepower street fan, the McLeod RST twin disc clutch kit is an economically priced twin disc clutch kit. Able to handle 800hp, this clutch can handle almost any horse-power you can throw at it and still remain street able. Organic lined clutch discs will provide smooth engagement with a soft pedal effort to make this clutch kit ideal for the street performance enthusiast. This clutch kit is designed to be a high horsepower street clutch kit and is not designed to be used in a competition environment. Kit Includes: Pressure Plate, two organic friction discs, floater plate, adapter ring and pilot tool."

Corvette 62 clutch.JPG

Focus Clutch.JPG

Focus clutch 2.JPG
 
phantomjock said:
Your question caused me to go back and look at my MasterLube Accumulator instructions. Hmm, I found no clarity there or the website - just a quick scan though. Speedway suggests the air charged piston; "...automatically forces up to 3 quarts of reserve oil to the main galleries." So it sound like it adds 3 quarts to total capacity.

There is a lot of reference to the "benefits of pre-lubrication." They cite the reduction of wear from reduced friction as a result of dry starting. I see the Accusump is at about $320 price point on eBay (as low as about $200). Price jumps with enhancements like automatic pressure solenoids etc. to $600.

They are pretty simple, use a pressure bladder inside the container and when the valve opens - forces the oil in the cylinder into the circuit. When the engine is running the oil returns to the cylinder and reserved. In a manual setup - you have one more thing to remember on shutdown. Checklist anyone?

I am moving to a Dry Sump setup, and redvetracr said he had used a primer on his setup. So, I bought a Peterson Remote Filter Mount/Primer. The primer is driven with a cordless drill and should bring the oil pressure up in a few minutes (also useful for oil changes too). ;) There is nothing to do on shutdown so one less checklist item -- but there is the "priming" mentioned earlier. That could be effected with a switch (Red Guarded?) and a 12v motor to drive the priming boss. Added benefit (or challenge) - the oil filter moves to a remote access position.

The price point is pretty much a "push." Maybe comes down to the additional capacity as the deciding factor - which seems to be available.

Best of luck on the deciding! Sorry if I muddied the waters...

Cheers - Jim
Click to expand...

I'd certainly buy the automatic system - and put a warning light on the dash when it deploys. My concern is that puts 3 extra quarts of oil in the pan - I don't know of a pan where that wouldn't put oil in the path of the crank.... I guess choose your poison, spun bearing or broken crank if the system fails... still - I love the idea of dry sump but my 'just a quick calculation' was nearly $5000 for all the bits....
 
mfain said:
Clutch thoughts: For street clutches, I have had good luck with McCloud. Their twin-disk RST should handle 700+ hp and still be streetable. For more hp than that (850), I am using a Tilton 7.25 inch, triple disk carbon-carbon unit - not streetable. Quartermaster makes the triple disk clutch that a lot of the guys competing in the Optima challenge use. I also used an Exidy clutch in my track Focus - worked good, but a lot less horsepower. There is a photo of my Tilton in my 56 Vette build thread (the forum would not let me re-post it here).

Below is a description of the McCloud dual disk clutch:

"GM 1-1/8 x26 with Small Block Chevy and Big Block Chevy flywheel pattern
Fits 11" Pattern Flywheel Only

Intended for the high horsepower street fan, the McLeod RST twin disc clutch kit is an economically priced twin disc clutch kit. Able to handle 800hp, this clutch can handle almost any horse-power you can throw at it and still remain street able. Organic lined clutch discs will provide smooth engagement with a soft pedal effort to make this clutch kit ideal for the street performance enthusiast. This clutch kit is designed to be a high horsepower street clutch kit and is not designed to be used in a competition environment. Kit Includes: Pressure Plate, two organic friction discs, floater plate, adapter ring and pilot tool."

View attachment 2450

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View attachment 2452
Click to expand...

thank you, this is very helpful
 
More parts arrived
pcYmAo2h.jpg
correction, more backstock.... that is not 5" long

however, the right bearings and the windage tray arrived
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mfain said:
Clutch thoughts: For street clutches, I have had good luck with McCloud. Their twin-disk RST should handle 700+ hp and still be streetable. For more hp than that (850), I am using a Tilton 7.25 inch, triple disk carbon-carbon unit - not streetable. Quartermaster makes the triple disk clutch that a lot of the guys competing in the Optima challenge use. I also used an Exidy clutch in my track Focus - worked good, but a lot less horsepower. There is a photo of my Tilton in my 56 Vette build thread (the forum would not let me re-post it here).

Below is a description of the McCloud dual disk clutch:

"GM 1-1/8 x26 with Small Block Chevy and Big Block Chevy flywheel pattern
Fits 11" Pattern Flywheel Only

Intended for the high horsepower street fan, the McLeod RST twin disc clutch kit is an economically priced twin disc clutch kit. Able to handle 800hp, this clutch can handle almost any horse-power you can throw at it and still remain street able. Organic lined clutch discs will provide smooth engagement with a soft pedal effort to make this clutch kit ideal for the street performance enthusiast. This clutch kit is designed to be a high horsepower street clutch kit and is not designed to be used in a competition environment. Kit Includes: Pressure Plate, two organic friction discs, floater plate, adapter ring and pilot tool."

View attachment 2450

View attachment 2451

View attachment 2452
Click to expand...

You've convinced me to have 2 set ups.... double disk clutch, straight-cut gear M22 or ST10 (or 5 speed) it wouldn't take me 4 hours to swap - best of all with the dakota dash (and electronic speedo)... even the speedo would work.... I'm not convinced (though I do like them) that the Super T-10 will survive the punishment of the motor - especially since I turned it up to 11 with 12:1 compression... the other benefit is I can drop the Camaro center section with 3 bolts and unbolt the half shafts to put a more positive engaging diff-lock...
 
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