Road to being SCCA approved

I finally saw the transmission, didn't buy it yet but saw it. It's a tex racing t101 polished and tumbled, and the input shaft is sloppy, apparently that is better, and it also has a badass shifter on it. I'm pretty sure it has a pump also.

The car has 3 pedals now. Still a ton of other crap to do, and it will take forever to complete at this pace, it may see a track by 2012 :lol:. Oh well it's not up to me, and it's not worthwhile arguing.

The cast iron column mount is nothing worthwhile to make lightweight, it probably weights 10 pounds at most.

100_0491.jpg

100_0490.jpg
 
Yellow73SB said:
Heres all the numbers that were on the card attached to the tranny

AR/55

25/31
35/21
31/24A
27/28

Tumbled + polished
26 spline floater GMT
23 3/4 setback Bearing tail

Looks like it's one off from the recommended road race ratios, I imagine that should be fine

http://www.gforcesouth.com/pdfs/GF4A Ratio Chart.pdf
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thats not the way I read the chart...the 25/31 head set is not a recommended road race set...BTW, did you order the trans with that much shifter setback?
 
No we didn't order it, my cousin ordered it through ganassi racing for his late model but is going to a 2 speed instead.

The difference between the 25/31 and the 20/24 seems minimal ratio wise

Are there other differences?
 
I didn't get any today

But I don't think it's a T101A

It has some other symbol cast in to the cases and milled into the shifter and cover

How can I tell if it has an internal pump?
 
Zoomed in and this is the symbol that is on all the parts

What company is this?

brand.jpg
 
It could be a Richmond super duty or more likely a Rankin, either way I don`t think it`s a T-101/T-101A, they all have two bolts on top that holds the bronze shoe or a bearing on the "A" model (which is also teflon coated), shoe or bearing either reduces deflection of the mainshaft. I asked Leonard Long who I met at a PRI show in Indy years ago (who also manufactured these for Tex racing) the big difference and he said the bronze shoe wears but the bearing causes the cluster shaft to push down in the case which will require re-bushing the case, at that time Tex had a proprietary deal with Long who could only build me a trans if I came up with a case, tail and side door, after striking out with all the names he gave me in search of those three parts he set me up with the Cup team who built mine (my head set is a 26-30 btw)...if yours had a gear pump it would probably be a "bolt on" to the RH side of the trans, mine is a T-101 and has no provision for a pump, the T-101A had a provision and the newer internal shift rail transmissions have a built in gear pump...either way it`s better than a Muncie, Super T-10 or that offshore Autogear POS...I didn`t notice, did you get a triple disc clutch yet? you should!!
 
Yeah we are going to a tripple disc button clutch


Is this transmission still clutchless?
 
Yellow73SB said:
Yeah we are going to a tripple disc button clutch


Is this transmission still clutchless?
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that would depend on if it had synchro`s or not.......I realize your dad got it but why not ask your cousin what the heck it actually is?? I think it`s a Rankin but clutchless or not with all those u-joints back there I still use the clutch...just barely with the 5.5" clutch and reverse drive starter but I do slightly push the clutch pedal when I shift. Look for a button clutch that uses a flexplate not a full size flywheel...cheaper & lighter. and make sure you have a clutch pedal stop the multiplate clutches don`t like being pushed over center which will happen...
 
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Yellow73SB said:
I don't think my cousin really knew all the details on the transmission. His brother in law got it for him.

I'm pretty sure my cousin said it was clutchless though. I only talked to him once or twice about it and it wasn't in depth.

And my dad doesn't really care about any important details so he didn't really look into it much. We still have a sloppy rear posi and we've never got an alignment. Not to mention silicone brake fluid and a hydr aboost.

I honestly kind of lost interest in the car and have kind of given up on it.



As far as the clutch goes, it will be a 153 tooth flexplate and a 7.25 clutch

The assembly would probably be a quartermaster from speedway motors
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If he`s sure it`s a clutchless/ dog ring trans it`s probably a Rankin. considering the reliability of a QMI clutch I would look for a used one, just make sure the discs are thick and the floaters aren`t warped.....as long as they don`t get abused (like slipping it) they last forever. driving it on the trailer is a big no-no also.
 
We got everything, but the clutch assembly is about .3 to tall.

Either the bell housing has to be spaced back with a mid plate or the button flywheel needs to be shorter.

I don't think they make a shorter bellhousing though.

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what does the bellhousing hit?? the flexplate? is there an actual QMI part number on the bellhousing? it might be for a LGC (low ground clearance 104T ??) flywheel...also is it just me or does it look like there is some space between the "stands" of the clutch cover and the button flywheel?
 
Guys, I am settin' here lookin' at them latest pix here, and thinking you can get a lighter 'flywheel' than a flex plate....I hear of the revving advantages of a light fly, but really now.....:bonkers::beer:
 
redvetracr said:
what does the bellhousing hit?? the flexplate? is there an actual QMI part number on the bellhousing? it might be for a LGC (low ground clearance 104T ??) flywheel...also is it just me or does it look like there is some space between the "stands" of the clutch cover and the button flywheel?
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The throwout bearing bottoms out on the clutch before the bellhousing bottoms out. I had it worded back before.

We talked to tilton today about the bellhousing. It's made to for a billet flywheel wheel, which is about a .700 offset. The button flywheel is .700 offset also, plus the added thickness of the flex plate. So the bellhousing needs to be shifted back about .150 which is the thickness of the flex plate.

We have the billet flywheel but it's for a 2pc rear main. They don't make a 1 piece flywheel.

The quarter master button flywheel is .900 thick which is going to be useless now. So we are going to get the tilton one.

I wonder if they could machine one up to get more offset. But I'm not sure if you could get it back enough before interfering with the flexplate.
 
mrvette said:
Guys, I am settin' here lookin' at them latest pix here, and thinking you can get a lighter 'flywheel' than a flex plate....I hear of the revving advantages of a light fly, but really now.....:bonkers::beer:
Click to expand...

They make these that are around 3-4 pounds.The flexplate weights about the same. The button flywheel adds a little more but it's further toward the center which isn't as big of a deal

The clutch came with one but they only fit 1piece rear mains.

http://www.racingclutches.com/product.phtml?p=103&cat_key=53
 
I think I would buy a QMI bellhousing. If I remember correctly those flywheels are pretty pricey. you didn`t ask but I would have advised to stick with one manufacturer, mixing & matching components gets confusing.....or you could keep the bell and buy a Tilton clutch, the V-drive (open sides) is the cheepie anyway.
 
I have a 105T LGC QMI flywheel here it`s more like .575 thick.....and what about what looks like the clutch cover stands not resting on the button??
 
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