Wiring Lockout to brake switch

How do I test to see if this switch will work? It the switch with the pink and red wire. Getting ready to wire the lock out. I have a cruise control brake switch already in place. Will it work to turn the lockout off? I think I want it normally open and then closed when brake applied?

What kind of lockout? Reverse lockout on a trans? Or to turn off a converter lockup?

reverse lockout most likely, wire it in series to clutch and brake so you have to depress them both to go in R.

Torque convertor lock up. Locks up in OD then tap the brake and shuts off until it reaches OD again.
I installed a B&M Quicksilver.
I also need to wire the neutral start switch and back up lights.

donnie_19 said:

Torque convertor lock up. Locks up in OD then tap the brake and shuts off until it reaches OD again.
I installed a B&M Quicksilver.
I also need to wire the neutral start switch and back up lights.

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What EVER you do, do NOT replace your brake light switch, they make a replacement that is supposed to cut the 12+ to the trans, but it's a POS, and gave me much troubles, it would get warm and open up, the switch had a internal failure, so to do a relay that get energized with the brake lights, that opens a normally closed contact, that will remove the 12+ from the trans lockup.....I used a magnetic switch like from burglar alarm contact for my reverse lights, trigger a small relay yet again....

these 12 volt relays are easy as hell in junkyards, pull from modern car control boxes under the hoods....for the camper, I pulled a whole damn fuse/relay control box, rewired it into the camper and marked the relays as to function....:crutches:

I think I can use my current brake switch. It has another set of contacts that cut the cruise control when brake pedal is pushed. Tested with my meter and it is normally closed. When I push the pedal the contact is open so that will drop the 12v. Just need to feed 12v. Its in the middle of the picture with the pink and red wire.
On another issue, I think I found out why the dome lights stay on all the time. There is an orange wire coming out of the dimmer circuit that was disconnected. Could this cause the courtesy lights so stay on all the time?

donnie_19 said:

I think I can use my current brake switch. It has another set of contacts that cut the cruise control when brake pedal is pushed. Tested with my meter and it is normally closed. When I push the pedal the contact is open so that will drop the 12v. Just need to feed 12v. Its in the middle of the picture with the pink and red wire.
On another issue, I think I found out why the dome lights stay on all the time. There is an orange wire coming out of the dimmer circuit that was disconnected. Could this cause the courtesy lights so stay on all the time?

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Can't help you on the lights man......but I have little red lights over the dash/console that I know what they mean, one for reverse on the position plate, that tells me the lights are ON, another couple on the dash, one of them tells me the brake lights are ON, another tells me when the trans is in lockup.....

much of this is due to aftermarket parts failures that drove me krazy ....

I dunno what else to say but EFFING CHINA!!!!!!!:shocking::gurney: