SRountree
Well-known member
I painted my wifes truck with a rino liner metalic paint. I didn't expect much out of it but I am amazed on the outcome. I saved myself from buying a new truck... lol
Rino liner paint
- Thread starter SRountree
- Start date
SRountree
Well-known member
SRountree
Well-known member
Finished product
Added new lights and boom, like new... only a tough paint to damage. The finish is a satin with metalic that really sparkles in the sun. It's a pewter and black combo.
Added new lights and boom, like new... only a tough paint to damage. The finish is a satin with metalic that really sparkles in the sun. It's a pewter and black combo.
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SRountree
Well-known member
Yes it takes a special gun I purchased for $80. TCP global sells the kit, paint, hardner, and the gun comes with it but if your painting the exterior of a vehicle, buy the higher grade gun for the best results.
My son wanted his Nissan Juke painted so we did that first. He wanted a pretty rough feel so we played around with the air pressure, distance from the car/paint gun, and spray pattern. I did a lot of research on YouTube too...
We ended up at 85 psi, 24-30" from the car, and a small circle spray pattern. I also used about 10% reducer in the paint. It turned out pretty cool. He's getting a lot of comments already.
My truck, I used 15% reducer, 14-18" from the vehicle, sprayed vertical and horizontal and circles to make it blend smooth and kept the same air pressure. I had more waste because of the two tone scheme.
It dries quickly. 3-4 hours to the touch, or taping for another color.... I believe 7 days to fully cure.
Almost forgot, they have an adhesive promoter to help with tight places. That helped with the jambs and emblems. I wanted the embossed look.
We used 80 grit sandpaper to scuff the body, primer etch for the bare metal places, etc... it's a pretty easy process.
My son wanted his Nissan Juke painted so we did that first. He wanted a pretty rough feel so we played around with the air pressure, distance from the car/paint gun, and spray pattern. I did a lot of research on YouTube too...
We ended up at 85 psi, 24-30" from the car, and a small circle spray pattern. I also used about 10% reducer in the paint. It turned out pretty cool. He's getting a lot of comments already.
My truck, I used 15% reducer, 14-18" from the vehicle, sprayed vertical and horizontal and circles to make it blend smooth and kept the same air pressure. I had more waste because of the two tone scheme.
It dries quickly. 3-4 hours to the touch, or taping for another color.... I believe 7 days to fully cure.
Almost forgot, they have an adhesive promoter to help with tight places. That helped with the jambs and emblems. I wanted the embossed look.
We used 80 grit sandpaper to scuff the body, primer etch for the bare metal places, etc... it's a pretty easy process.
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Is this the same stuff you use to coat a truck bed?
SRountree
Well-known member
Yes it is... they have all kinds of colors... it's awesome... here is the link. For 8 quarts, it's only $289.96 which was enough to do my entire truck... jambs and all. I even hit the original bed liner to make it all match and fresh.
https://tcpglobal.com/pages/custom-coat-bed-liner
https://tcpglobal.com/pages/custom-coat-bed-liner
SRountree
Well-known member
I can get some closer pictures if you guys want. You cant see the metalic in the ones I posted.
Overall, it a fine rough yet smooth feel with a satin finish. I could probably wax it pretty easy.
This link talks about how it held up after a year... pretty impressive. Use a spray wax to help make cleaning easy and also simple green to get rid of the bird bombs.
Check out this link.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=share&v=vaHYzAFxZQU
Overall, it a fine rough yet smooth feel with a satin finish. I could probably wax it pretty easy.
This link talks about how it held up after a year... pretty impressive. Use a spray wax to help make cleaning easy and also simple green to get rid of the bird bombs.
Check out this link.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=share&v=vaHYzAFxZQU
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
hmmmm, I need to reshoot my FJ40.... that's not a bad option at all. :thumbs:
SRountree
Well-known member
I have a Kolbalt 80 gal 5Hp.
You've got me beat. I've got the 60gal with slightly less power. I'll just have to experiment with the duty cycle. I was thinking I might shoot the fenderwells on my Vette with Rhino liner once I finish up the body work. Not too heavy, just enough to keep big rocks from creating spider cracks.
SRountree
Well-known member
you can use a lower pressure but just experiment before you spray the vehicle... I believe the reducer is key for a finer texture.
I am planning on spraying the floor boards, wheel walls, and behind the entire dash area on my vette. It helps with sound proofing too...
I am planning on spraying the floor boards, wheel walls, and behind the entire dash area on my vette. It helps with sound proofing too...
Probably a lot more cost effective than Dynamat too, I like your thinking. I may end up doing this sooner rather than later because I currently have the interior gutted and I'm about to start wiring. Better to knock this out before I start putting the harness in the car and rebuild the dash.
SRountree
Well-known member
Speaking of car wiring... I have a new complete wire harness and each wire is labelled where it goes. Is it that easy?
I plan on installing it this winter.
I plan on installing it this winter.
I am a horrible one to ask that. Factory replacement harness, sure easy enough to follow the routing in the manual and plug and play. I've got a Painless harness that I need to swap all the connectors for bulbs, switches, etc onto, so it is a little more involved. I will be following a lot of the stock routing intent while trying to make it easier to service going forward. If you want to know the truth about a stalled out project, I got the harness for Christmas in 1995 or 1996. I now have kids older than I was then! I'm trying to get back on track now...
Probably won't be too bad. Just a lot a fishing wires through holes and interior disassembly. I going to do this this winter also. It's been so long since I took the wiring out, I don't have a clue. And, I'm switching to a later harness and adding air out of an 81. Also fuel injection. I'm way over my head with this, so I'll be asking a lot of questions!
SRountree
Well-known member
Yea, my painless wire system is about 10 years old... I have to make a high pressure power steering hose to complete my R/P system, them I will tackle the wire harness. Hopefully it will still run. Lol
I need to buy the pig tails and clips too. Maybe we need to start a thread for wiring.
I need to buy the pig tails and clips too. Maybe we need to start a thread for wiring.
I think my harnesses and fuel injection are at least 10 years old. Looks like winter is wiring season!
My immediate need is to fire the engine. I will definitely have some questions about how that is wired.
My immediate need is to fire the engine. I will definitely have some questions about how that is wired.
bobs77vet
Well-known member
there are really good wiring diagrams out there that show the color of the wires, how they are routed in the engine bay and what the connectors look like and what each wire goes to. i found then really helpful.
i think they are from dr rebuild and well worth the price especially if this is something new.
i think they are from dr rebuild and well worth the price especially if this is something new.
