Ouch! Driveshaft and Yoke 1310 & 1350 Questions

Ouch! Driveshaft and Yoke 1310 & 1350 Questions

Busted the tranny yoke which in turn took-out the tail shaft housing and gouged the hell out of the carbon fiber drive shaft. So, questions.

M20 transmission, 3.08 rear-end in a 1969. Engine is a built 383.

The yoke “was” a cast 1310 two part carrying 1-1/16 caps x 3-1/4 U-joints.

Going to the various web sites (Mark Williams & Strange) I can get a 1350 two part chrome-moly part carrying 1-3/16 caps x 3-5/8 U-joints.

Is there a good option to upgrade the slip yoke without changing the drive line to the larger U-joints?

What is the probability that the larger U-joints will have interference problems?

If I do go to larger U-joints, and since at this time it is not practical to change-out the input on the rear differential, I will need to use as combo 1310/1350 U-joint. Will this cause vibration problems?

I assume that I can get a larger input to the rear-end since, it is my understanding, the auto transmissions also used the larger U-joints. Comments or confirmation?

As always, thank you all in advance.

George :beer:

The driveshaft either uses 1310s (most common) or 1330s, 1350s and a 3" driveshaft woiuld most likely rub the tunnel. A 1310 to 1350 bastard joint would not cause vibration. However, your failure looks to be the yoke shaft snapped, the u joint isn't going to help you there, a stronger slip yoke will.

The 1310 w/ 1-1/16 caps is the smallest 1310, there's also one with 1-1/8 caps. The same goes for the 1330, which is a 1350 sized body w/ 1310 sized caps, available in both sizes.

was that a factory yoke or a reproduction?

Looks factory, Classic torsional shear failure.