Shortening the steering column

Don't worry, this will probably be my last steering column thread.
I figure I have the column out now, (I hate this phrase) "I might as well" fix the only major driving position problem with this car.
To be able to depress the clutch all the way, my seat position moves me too close to the steering wheel, and makes my arms too bent for comfort, or any kind of performance driving. (about 3/4" between my wrist and the back of the steering wheel when laying my arm over the top of the steering wheel) So while I'm shortening the steering shaft, now would be the time to shorten the column about 3/4".
It seems like all that needs to be done is to slide the mounting brackets up 3/4", and shorten the shaft that additional amount.

Just looking for opinions or problems that someone sees with doing this.

The bracket is welded on to the tube. There are some pot metal "capsules" (oval shaped zinc things) that are mounted in slots on that bracket. They are meant to slide out of the bracket if your chest hits the steering wheel in an accident.

If you remove this bracket and reweld, keep a wet towel on the capsules. They melt at a very low temperature. Better yet, if you could remove the 3/4 from the tube above the bracket, you wouldn't have to shorten the end of the tube.

I ended up figuring everything out and finished that project. so, here is a little writeup, and some pics.
The only bracket that had to be moved was the one that mounts on the firewall. The other bracket (with the potmetal slides) is still within position to bolt up to the stock location.
The firewall bracket is spot welded to the tube, so I cut them out :



I moved the firewall bracket up the tube 3/4", and welded it back to the tube:


then its basically the same principle putting it back together, the tube just sticks out of the firewall 3/4" further.




I kind of wish I went for a full inch, but I can tell already that it is going to be a much more comfortable driving position.

Now to finally get back on the actual mounting of the rack :waxer:

vette427sbc said:

I kind of wish I went for a full inch, but I can tell already that it is going to be a much more comfortable driving position.

Now to finally get back on the actual mounting of the rack :waxer:

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that little trick may well hurt you in that you need retract that shaft pretty far into the column to get away with just two universal joints, even with tipping the rack up like I did, to get that top joint relaxed enough....post of your experiences there....remember the rack has to clear the oil pan too, obviously....

MY problem is just the opposite, I am too tall at 6'5" and so needed more leg room, so swung the firewall forward about 3" on bottom and reglassed it in, below the steering wheel mount point....lowered the gas and brake pedals too....got my legs off the steering wheel....then since my column/wheel is off a '78 up , the wheel set too far forward.....as for some reason there was a length difference but the price was right....so I eventually pulled the wheel back toward ME by only 3/4 inch, but I used a simpler piece of wood and longer flange bolts and flipped the silver mount tabs around for the vertical bolts...

So I have been able to drive with my typical James Dean slouch....leaning on the console cushion, way down in the rakes/lowered seat, left hand over the top of the steering wheel....1/2 the time not even dripping the wheel, just resting my wrist over it.....the wonders of power steering....:harhar::nuts:

mrvette said:

that little trick may well hurt you in that you need retract that shaft pretty far into the column to get away with just two universal joints, even with tipping the rack up like I did, to get that top joint relaxed enough....post of your experiences there....remember the rack has to clear the oil pan too, obviously....

Click to expand...

I got the rack in the position I want, and NO joint bind :beer:
It moves smooth, probably positioned similar to yours. Had to cut a crescent out of the motor mount, and have the rack tipped up a good amount.
Pictures will follow when its complete, and I'm close :yahoo:

vette427sbc said:

mrvette said:

that little trick may well hurt you in that you need retract that shaft pretty far into the column to get away with just two universal joints, even with tipping the rack up like I did, to get that top joint relaxed enough....post of your experiences there....remember the rack has to clear the oil pan too, obviously....

Click to expand...

I got the rack in the position I want, and NO joint bind :beer:
It moves smooth, probably positioned similar to yours. Had to cut a crescent out of the motor mount, and have the rack tipped up a good amount.
Pictures will follow when its complete, and I'm close :yahoo:

Click to expand...

Well, best as I can recall from 6 years ago, there seemed to be but one narrow window in rack position and column length to get away with just two U joints, the output of the rack can be easily done several different ways I thought about it, and figgered my new tie rod ends were still fine, so no reason what so ever to not use them, pluss that design has been on every damn car built for the last 60 years, the romans used it to steer their war wagons....good enough...eh??

:hissyfit:

Quick question..... not having removed a steering column, how easy would it be to remove the steering lock lever shown on the end? Mine keeps jamming and won't release the ign key!

When i had mine apart, it didnt look like it would be easy to remove the whole key lock assembly, most people cut off the lever, but that wouldnt stop the key from jamming, unless the lever moves by itself.

6-71 said:

Quick question..... not having removed a steering column, how easy would it be to remove the steering lock lever shown on the end? Mine keeps jamming and won't release the ign key!

View attachment 472

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I remember at first I just coat hangered that lever in position to keep the key released....I think it went to the tranny interlock.....

I forget if it was up or down it had to stay...probably up.....

I removed the entire lever/tube when rebuilding my '78+ column in the car for some 15 years now....

Gene,
Your memory is fading. The 1977 through 82 Vette columns don't have a shift tube. The finger inhibitor lever eliminated the need for the lower lever and shift tube.

Jim

JIML82 said:

Gene,
Your memory is fading. The 1977 through 82 Vette columns don't have a shift tube. The finger inhibitor lever eliminated the need for the lower lever and shift tube.

Jim

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:3rd: OH well, what can I say....I know I pulled some lever outta some column on this vette, it was the OEM '72 column then not Tilt/tele on it...and so the large wheel was still a PIA, went late shark wheel...still not good enough...got the '78+ column assy and went to work....Yes, I remember some pesky lever on there to get the key out....needless to say it's missing....

:huh::amazed: gee I wonder where it went....

JIML82 said:

Gene,
Your memory is fading. The 1977 through 82 Vette columns don't have a shift tube. The finger inhibitor lever eliminated the need for the lower lever and shift tube.

Jim

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I also think the 77-82 was a shorter column.

DARROW 74 said:

JIML82 said:

Gene,
Your memory is fading. The 1977 through 82 Vette columns don't have a shift tube. The finger inhibitor lever eliminated the need for the lower lever and shift tube.

Jim

Click to expand...

I also think the 77-82 was a shorter column.

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Yes, it was, and so some years later, in my infamous 01-2 winter overhaul/mod assault, one of the things was to make a 3/4 inch plywood spacer to pull the column back toward ME , just used longer bolts....honestly I would like another inch or two on that, but not willing to remove the column for a week to get it done....effort/toleration equation....:surrender:

I drives good, I had to reverse those aluminum mounting tabs on the vertical bolts, to allow it to mount further back, just made it...barely...good enough....