denpo
Carburated Nihilist
[FS]1958 MGA Coupe, fully restored, 60% Steel, 40% Weld.:rofl:
More seriously, nice job.
More seriously, nice job.
1958 MGA Coupe
- Thread starter bobs77vet
- Start date
bobs77vet
Well-known member
you have that backwards.....60% weld 40% steel
Jasco prep and prime on inner fender splash guards
and tapped the shut face panel screws, Neil helped me out with the correct size screw
bobs77vet
Well-known member
moving forward to finishing those damn inner fenders....they are like work!!!
i rinsed off the jasco as per the directions then sanded the pieces again and applied some fiberglass short strand body filler to my weld seams sanded quickly and primed one side of them.
the only thing i dont like about the jasco is that you have to rinse it with water, it just rubs me the wrong way to use water on bare steel., although we do wet sand primer.....
these inner fenders are being brought up to a presentable level so that the final paint is smooth on them i am not worrying about perfection on these.
i rinsed off the jasco as per the directions then sanded the pieces again and applied some fiberglass short strand body filler to my weld seams sanded quickly and primed one side of them.
the only thing i dont like about the jasco is that you have to rinse it with water, it just rubs me the wrong way to use water on bare steel., although we do wet sand primer.....
these inner fenders are being brought up to a presentable level so that the final paint is smooth on them i am not worrying about perfection on these.
bobs77vet
Well-known member
inners fenders are done....they came out pretty nice for panels that you will never see. now to move on to the shut face panels
bobs77vet
Well-known member
well today had to turn the heat on in the garage for the newly painted stuff to dry, primers can take a long time at 60* to dry.
primed the inside of the right rear fender
can you see the red paint buried in that crevice.....I believe that is original paint and the shut face panel was mashed into place and it created that dent.
its the shiny raised part which is out of focus by the snips
and my solution is to relieve the crunched part to make it fit better. iwill weld it back together after some more fitting. you cant be scared to cut stuff to make it fit better in projects like this
primed the inside of the right rear fender
can you see the red paint buried in that crevice.....I believe that is original paint and the shut face panel was mashed into place and it created that dent.
its the shiny raised part which is out of focus by the snips
and my solution is to relieve the crunched part to make it fit better. iwill weld it back together after some more fitting. you cant be scared to cut stuff to make it fit better in projects like this
bobs77vet
Well-known member
so part of the process of filling time is to mock up everything in final form and then take it all apart again. it feels really good to have something actually put back together on the body
so all the bolts get chased with a thread cleaner and all the washers get hit with the grinder
and we have a fully installed fender with spashguards all the bolts in place and tight
nice and tight screw holes
so all the bolts get chased with a thread cleaner and all the washers get hit with the grinder
and we have a fully installed fender with spashguards all the bolts in place and tight
nice and tight screw holes
bobs77vet
Well-known member
several easy tasks.....weld in nut for the fender bolt, attach and weld in rear spalsh guard tab, sand inner fender one more time and prime
some times theres no easy way to get a good clamp, so this gave me an easy quick hold for a few smalls tacks then i could weld the rest from the back
some times theres no easy way to get a good clamp, so this gave me an easy quick hold for a few smalls tacks then i could weld the rest from the back
bobs77vet
Well-known member
continuing on with the labor of love...full dress rehearsal on drivers side rear fender and two splash guards
all bolts in place and operational, i had to weld the other front fender nut into the body panel piece behind the door latch pillars, not hard just work since i had to cut it out of a piece of the old front part of the car.
the splash guards will get the hole drilled when i have the actual rubber piece that attaches to them.
all bolts in place and operational, i had to weld the other front fender nut into the body panel piece behind the door latch pillars, not hard just work since i had to cut it out of a piece of the old front part of the car.
the splash guards will get the hole drilled when i have the actual rubber piece that attaches to them.
bobs77vet
Well-known member
thks red77
easy 90 mins or so found a few more pin holes in fender that needed some mending and then once again sand and wipe down with wax and degreaser and then prime, I had wanted to get the out side of the fender where the patch panel is sanded and primed but its hard to work on both sides of a panel at once so tonight was just devoted to the inner fender and outside by the fender mounting holes
I am excited because I actually see an end to using the green self etching primer in the near future, one more inner fender and then the 2 doors so maybe 2 more cans, maybe 3 just to be safe.
easy 90 mins or so found a few more pin holes in fender that needed some mending and then once again sand and wipe down with wax and degreaser and then prime, I had wanted to get the out side of the fender where the patch panel is sanded and primed but its hard to work on both sides of a panel at once so tonight was just devoted to the inner fender and outside by the fender mounting holes
I am excited because I actually see an end to using the green self etching primer in the near future, one more inner fender and then the 2 doors so maybe 2 more cans, maybe 3 just to be safe.
MYBAD79
Moderator
Awesome progress and congrats on now being a 2x grandpa !!!!!!!
bobs77vet
Well-known member
thks
sand the red primer off , hit the open lap area with a wire brush and then 36 grit and use short strand fiberglass to fill the gap and prime the fender this is just to move it to the next phase, if its not raining tomorrow it will get a quick sanding and black primer.
sand the red primer off , hit the open lap area with a wire brush and then 36 grit and use short strand fiberglass to fill the gap and prime the fender this is just to move it to the next phase, if its not raining tomorrow it will get a quick sanding and black primer.
bobs77vet
Well-known member
two more weld repairs, a tear in the fender lip and a rust spot on the inner splash guard mounting tab
this has to go the spot that is bubbling if you ignore bubbling spots you are just fooling your self
added some body filler to low spots and prime it
this has to go the spot that is bubbling if you ignore bubbling spots you are just fooling your self
added some body filler to low spots and prime it
bobs77vet
Well-known member
nice day outside so lets use the temps to our advantage
one green primed fender to Black primed
and I eye balled some more rust spots I didn't like
so I cut the out side piece all the way off and wire brushed the inner panel and use self etching weld through primer
make a piece to fill the void
tack in place
grind away
no more rust holes and ready to move to the next phase
no more things to do on inner fender so move to black primer, well after the primer dries for a day or two I will put seam sealer on all the weld seams. I also will make the inner sill cap ends and pop rivet them in place so they can be removed if necessary for inspection at a later date
one green primed fender to Black primed
and I eye balled some more rust spots I didn't like
so I cut the out side piece all the way off and wire brushed the inner panel and use self etching weld through primer
make a piece to fill the void
tack in place
grind away
no more rust holes and ready to move to the next phase
no more things to do on inner fender so move to black primer, well after the primer dries for a day or two I will put seam sealer on all the weld seams. I also will make the inner sill cap ends and pop rivet them in place so they can be removed if necessary for inspection at a later date
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
looking good
bobs77vet
Well-known member
thks
and we move to the last fender....i am running out of warm weather to do this outside, i still have to prime the inside of the fender and then can move the fender to the "black primer" phase.
and we move to the last fender....i am running out of warm weather to do this outside, i still have to prime the inside of the fender and then can move the fender to the "black primer" phase.
bobs77vet
Well-known member
the front mirrors are over the front wheels , but I have one too many holes and will have to weld one of them up and weld up a radio antenna hole
the copper backing plate
the radio antenna hole
front mirror hole and the one I filled in
all pin holes welded up and inner fender sanded
time to take a break for lunch and let the primer dry
back from lunch....
add a little body filler to where the repair was made from the radio antenna lead
primed since there was some shiny metal showing
primed in black meaning nothing left to do
wiped down fender with a wax and degreaser and move to the black primer stage
the copper backing plate
the radio antenna hole
front mirror hole and the one I filled in
all pin holes welded up and inner fender sanded
time to take a break for lunch and let the primer dry
back from lunch....
add a little body filler to where the repair was made from the radio antenna lead
primed since there was some shiny metal showing
primed in black meaning nothing left to do
wiped down fender with a wax and degreaser and move to the black primer stage
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bobs77vet
Well-known member
lets add another fender nut that is missing and build up a low spot
hold in place to plug weld
see the low spot in the curve
so lets add some 16 ga to build it up
all contact points have to be metal to metal, no filler in compression areas, but filler can be next to them
hold in place to plug weld
see the low spot in the curve
so lets add some 16 ga to build it up
all contact points have to be metal to metal, no filler in compression areas, but filler can be next to them
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bobs77vet
Well-known member
well somehow 2 weeks ago I hurt my back doing pretty much nothing????? so its been slow for me since then but today I went back at it , kind of light but any way...the task is to fully model the pass side front fender and inner splash guard
give a quick sand to the body filler and prime it
who would have thought that the inner fender splash guard holes would not be universal to all MGA's? since my inner fenders are off of a newer model the caged nuts are in slightly different locations......this is why you test fit everything before final painting
give a quick sand to the body filler and prime it
who would have thought that the inner fender splash guard holes would not be universal to all MGA's? since my inner fenders are off of a newer model the caged nuts are in slightly different locations......this is why you test fit everything before final painting
bobs77vet
Well-known member
todays chore is to mount the drivers side fender and inner fender and use all bolts and fully "model" the fit
chase all the holes and bolts
it may be a combination of adjusting all the holes not just the bottom ones....I will look at that again tomorrow
chase all the holes and bolts
it may be a combination of adjusting all the holes not just the bottom ones....I will look at that again tomorrow
