AC compressor ideas
- Thread starter Richard454
- Start date
JeffP1167
Well-known member
Buy the learjet and go cruising around in that, probably never miss the vette again.
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
I love how none of the sellers of those a/c systems have a price.... probably a "if you have to ask, you can't afford it" issue :suicide:
mrvette
Phantom of the Opera
U noticed that too eh......:banned:
What if you cut out the front crossover on the intake (and crossed it over somewhere else) and put a small Sanden unit up high in the center?
Edit: Nevermind, I just to a look at the overhead picture and can see that the "crossover" is not the intake. Still, maybe there is room in front of it to put a small compressor? OR, put the alternator up there and the compressor in place of it.
Edit: Nevermind, I just to a look at the overhead picture and can see that the "crossover" is not the intake. Still, maybe there is room in front of it to put a small compressor? OR, put the alternator up there and the compressor in place of it.
Last edited:
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
truer words were never spoken :crutches:
What did you decide to do on this?
68/70Vette
Well-known member
To the best I know, it's best to power the electronics off the alternator, not the battery. That being said, I was surprised that Classic Air wants their AC unit to be powered off the battery. Talking to them, it appears the AC unit itself has self contained the logic circuits that control the unit. They are apparently sensitive to power line transients; voltage spikes, alternator noise etc. Picking power off at the battery relies on the battery's capability to damp all this stuff out. (Crudely speaking the battery acts as a giant capacitor. The many feet of cable between the alternator and battery apparently results in RF isolation between the two.)
I'm planning on making an RFI filter and running my Classic Air directly from the alternator. If you run your ac from the battery, the AC current will appear as a charge current to the battery..effectively ruining the ammeter being able to tell you if the battery is charging or discharging.
Apologies if I sound preachy. Looks like you know what you're doing. A beemer V12 powered Corvette. Looks fun and interesting.
Richard454
Well-known member
Don't want to come off as an ass...
I was sorta in the 12Velectronics industry for 20+ years... Yes -the battery does act as a filter-one of the BEST- cleans up the AC ripple not filtered by the alt's diodes AND it dampens the voltage surges...Same reason you have (or should have)a battery back-up surge protector on your computer....
If you look at say a BMW 750IL ($100K new) they -BMW engineers- felt it best to run everything electronic off the battery..And since the battery is mounted in the trunk-even put a jumper terminal up front under the hood to keep the electronics from surges when you have to jump the car...
Think of it as this-
The alternator is your INCOME..The battery is your BANK ACCOUNT and the smaller the cabling -the more fees they charge. You would NOT want you mortgage payment to come directly out of you paycheck!!!
I am converting to a voltmeter- a lot better at telling you what's going on than an ammeter...just ask Gene...
These cars where not remotely designed to have the current draws that is expected for them to handle by adding fans...stereo...etc
Anyway- here's what I got the other day- I actually found it on eBay...I did some research and talked to the guys in Canada. This is used on 18 wheeler cabs -thanks to the no-idle laws...So should be fully capable keeping my small interior cool. At full tilt -6800RPM -it'll draw about 38Amps. Made by Cool-it.
I'm going w/ the Vintage air piece as well-
Here's the motor and controller-cost about $1k shipped-And just mocked up for fitment...
Richard
mrvette
Phantom of the Opera
I hear so much about alt ripple causing problems with electronics, and have had issues in the past with car stereo and whine in the speakers, adding filters and shit.....So I took my old ancient Tek 453 scope to the alt stud, and most I could find was about 700 mv of ripple with full load the a/c and engine fans on high, headlights on high....
I have always been a fan of running any heavy load directly off the alternator, just seems to make more sense than putting more load through the alt charge wire, thereby dropping available charge voltage at the battery, which never sees a really full charge as a result....like dropping say a volt from 14.8 down to 13.8 is ok on the freeway for a few hours, but in town doing say a sales job, worst case scenario, you get not enough charge voltage to give the battery enough boost to start the car 20X/day.....
I realize my statement seem a bit extreme, but I would think something similar would be the performance standards the OEM designers would demand in a QC lab.....:gurney::drink:
Richard454
Well-known member
Hey Gene-
Well you have a good alternator..when things break down the ripple (not the kind you drink out of a paper bag) goes up.... I have seen on way too many occasions a shielded RCA cable run near the alt charge line and create all sorts of noise...
The other issue running a large load right off the alt- say your fan(s)- When they start up- they just about short the alternator to ground- not a good thing to do when car is idling which is most often when the fan(s) kick on- alt is turning slowly and not capable of instantaneously producing the current required- the battery stops that to a large degree... The loss in the charge wire-if correctly sized is so minimal...BUT correctly sized is another story all together...
I was in sales...would start my car a bunch..and show off the stereo while I was stopped-this was like my first wiring job...circa early eighties...
yes..that's four runs of 4gu...
Richard
Well you have a good alternator..when things break down the ripple (not the kind you drink out of a paper bag) goes up.... I have seen on way too many occasions a shielded RCA cable run near the alt charge line and create all sorts of noise...
The other issue running a large load right off the alt- say your fan(s)- When they start up- they just about short the alternator to ground- not a good thing to do when car is idling which is most often when the fan(s) kick on- alt is turning slowly and not capable of instantaneously producing the current required- the battery stops that to a large degree... The loss in the charge wire-if correctly sized is so minimal...BUT correctly sized is another story all together...
I was in sales...would start my car a bunch..and show off the stereo while I was stopped-this was like my first wiring job...circa early eighties...
yes..that's four runs of 4gu...
Richard
