I've seen the thick pad before on the floorboard of a few different vehicles. Maybe some kind of sound deadener? I always wondered what would happen to the floorboard beneath, now I know. This is really coming along well and the rust isn't too terrible compared to what Blazers and Broncos of this vintage usually end up with if actually used in the weather and off road. Nice work!
Bloverlanding in a Blazer
- Thread starter SuperBuickGuy
- Start date
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
my plan is spray-in sound deadener with heat protection. On top, in the back, will be bedliner under a removable carpet... probably spray the liner on the front half as well (all this is like the FJ40's protection)
finish up shifter... I'm not sure how they planned on getting the nut on this - so I welded it on... problem solved
sway bars... the aftermarket does have options - but all of them are $500 or more. This is $200
and takes a chance
steering is hard left - clears
close, for certain, but not will never hit
plenty of room on the passenger side as well
comes with stands that you can use or simply bolt it in place of the old system
what is this sway bar that works for a cross-steer swapped K5 Blazer? a Classic Performance Parts (CCP) sway bar for a 2wd lowered Chevrolet truck... the only thing missing is how to attach it to the axle
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
first, the most important task... get these mud flaps OFF my Blazer - granted, fender flares are coming but still... time for them to go
then finally finish the t-case with the correct motor mount (from a Corvette)
only thing I had to do was add more holes to the frame to mount the cross member
I hate drilling holes over my head but I got the full monte of it today... it was only 99 degrees in the shop
however, this works even better
I did have the clearance the bracket so the steering arm didn't hit it
but clear it does. I'll buy some bar clamps to prevent the sway bar from walking
anyway, thanks for watching
then finally finish the t-case with the correct motor mount (from a Corvette)
only thing I had to do was add more holes to the frame to mount the cross member
I hate drilling holes over my head but I got the full monte of it today... it was only 99 degrees in the shop
however, this works even better
I did have the clearance the bracket so the steering arm didn't hit it
but clear it does. I'll buy some bar clamps to prevent the sway bar from walking
anyway, thanks for watching
Looks great! Lot's of moving parts in there but it looks like you're on the right path. Some split collars on the sway bar like you're suggesting ought to kill the side to side movement and as long as the panhard bar keeps the axle from moving side to side, you should still clear with articulation. Have you tried exercising the suspension up and down any to see if you end up with any contact? Having a lift in the shop makes that a lot easier!
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
forklift makes it even easier
maybe I'll do show and tell with that tomorrow....
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
onward
mouse problem, soon to be solved
they not happy (wild kitties)
time to make the links
wong ones
flex comes soon, but they seem to fit fine
paint comes later
they're still not sure about Luigi
but he will sway them
mouse problem, soon to be solved
they not happy (wild kitties)
time to make the links
wong ones
flex comes soon, but they seem to fit fine
paint comes later
they're still not sure about Luigi
but he will sway them
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
piece epoxied in place
I can't believe it, but I have to since I can see it... all my slathering actually sealed the hole
time to finish the welds
ready for wrap
then put the studs in place on the offset
turbo back in place
close but it is going to require a bit of hammer work
key here is I can finally bleed the injectors then make some noise.... there were open oil lines to the turbo....
I can't believe it, but I have to since I can see it... all my slathering actually sealed the hole
time to finish the welds
ready for wrap
then put the studs in place on the offset
turbo back in place
close but it is going to require a bit of hammer work
key here is I can finally bleed the injectors then make some noise.... there were open oil lines to the turbo....
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
got the injectors bled
then fought a bit with the glow plug controller... it was missing a ground (which is really a paradox on this thing)
of course, then I learned something... you remember how they used to embed a nut in the battery terminal... apparently some bean counter thought that was dumb
used the other battery and carried on (but tomorrow, I'm going to Costco with both and replacing them)
Then I got it fired and this happened
fast oil change
literally blew the line off... thankfully I noticed very quickly
fairly quick fix, I did what I did with the other line and adapted up
then fought a bit with the glow plug controller... it was missing a ground (which is really a paradox on this thing)
of course, then I learned something... you remember how they used to embed a nut in the battery terminal... apparently some bean counter thought that was dumb
used the other battery and carried on (but tomorrow, I'm going to Costco with both and replacing them)
Then I got it fired and this happened
fast oil change
literally blew the line off... thankfully I noticed very quickly
fairly quick fix, I did what I did with the other line and adapted up
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
Would it be easier to leave the fenders off for a bit more time.... probably but more likely probably not
for example, routing lines is paramount now
Inner fender the outer fender....
maybe more importantly is finding that I need to do a bit of Neanderthal on the core support the bottom is about 1/2" off - and nothing is lining up
however, and maybe more importantly, the batteries now have boxes to ride in
and I can start considering airboxes
for example, routing lines is paramount now
Inner fender the outer fender....
maybe more importantly is finding that I need to do a bit of Neanderthal on the core support the bottom is about 1/2" off - and nothing is lining up
however, and maybe more importantly, the batteries now have boxes to ride in
and I can start considering airboxes
bobs77vet
Well-known member
i like it!!! nice job on the sway bar links.
what is the insulation you have next to the turbo pipe (on the body)
thanks bob
what is the insulation you have next to the turbo pipe (on the body)
thanks bob
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
DEI exhaust wrap
time for turbo connections
but wait, time to remove the scaling kitty.... FGZ, that package I'm sending to Hawaii may include this thing
so that silver thing is to quiet turbo noises.... yeah, someone designed something to make turbos quieter....
like that's going to stay
ugly weld on metal of indeterminate origin
time to void warranty
then weld on elbow
basic layout - but I need to extend a tube
weld better because metal better
I haven't decided whether I'm using this swap meet special... it's electronic...
time for turbo connections
but wait, time to remove the scaling kitty.... FGZ, that package I'm sending to Hawaii may include this thing
so that silver thing is to quiet turbo noises.... yeah, someone designed something to make turbos quieter....
like that's going to stay
ugly weld on metal of indeterminate origin
time to void warranty
then weld on elbow
basic layout - but I need to extend a tube
weld better because metal better
I haven't decided whether I'm using this swap meet special... it's electronic...
bobs77vet
Well-known member
how is the DEI attached to the engine side of the well body panels? a landau adhesive?
could i use that as koosie cup for the SU float bowls?
could i use that as koosie cup for the SU float bowls?
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
wire and screws. I've tried the glue method - it never works for long.
technically it's supposed to keep things from getting too hot through reflection, would it be an insulator? probably not.
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
So I bought some brown seats today - mind you, this is after the first rinse that took the dust off
round 1 with grease removing soap
round 2 and 3 with 409 and purple power
hmmm... not brown
they'll work
round 1 with grease removing soap
round 2 and 3 with 409 and purple power
hmmm... not brown
they'll work
bobs77vet
Well-known member
nice, for the sedanettte (why keep me waiting???) you need those GM seats with the integral seat belts in them
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
what's life without anticipation?
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
the is the most important picture of today - clutch works great. had to pry on the throwout while my friend cracked the lines at the master.... not pretty but it works
then I couldn't shut the truck off when I got it into the shop... had to pull the plug and disconnect the battery
when I got this, the ignition switch was temperamental - thought it was the switch (and, for those playing along, I commented then that the switch looked new)... it was the barrel, not it works like new
then onto the billions of things left to do... focus now is the electronics so I have gauges and start the floorboard fixes
and then I show you a picture of a speaker
seemed like it was a good idea to replace them since I had to remove one to run the wires for the pillar gauges
this is not helpful, he thinks he is, but he is most certainly not
time to start thinking what this is going to need to be/do when its done. sealed for sure but do I just make the top removable? do I rely solely on the rubber boot to keep crap out? (no)
but in that vein, I should consider what the center console will look like - stock? I'd rather be able to walk into the driver/passenger side but I'm not giving up storage....
then I couldn't shut the truck off when I got it into the shop... had to pull the plug and disconnect the battery
when I got this, the ignition switch was temperamental - thought it was the switch (and, for those playing along, I commented then that the switch looked new)... it was the barrel, not it works like new
then onto the billions of things left to do... focus now is the electronics so I have gauges and start the floorboard fixes
and then I show you a picture of a speaker
seemed like it was a good idea to replace them since I had to remove one to run the wires for the pillar gauges
this is not helpful, he thinks he is, but he is most certainly not
time to start thinking what this is going to need to be/do when its done. sealed for sure but do I just make the top removable? do I rely solely on the rubber boot to keep crap out? (no)
but in that vein, I should consider what the center console will look like - stock? I'd rather be able to walk into the driver/passenger side but I'm not giving up storage....
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
tonight's update. Wiring.
spastic cat
I hate everyone.
in other news, because I'm not a YouTube sensation, I'm going to have gauges, a working speedo and insurance before it hits the street.... I know, I know, but I've never pretended to be an actor and I'm not going to start now
spastic cat
I hate everyone.
in other news, because I'm not a YouTube sensation, I'm going to have gauges, a working speedo and insurance before it hits the street.... I know, I know, but I've never pretended to be an actor and I'm not going to start now
