I found all the fittings I needed for metric adapters at NAPA. Take a look at the Edelman catalog posted above. I would be really surprised if they don't have them.
http://www.vettemod.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7030
Brake/Fuel line overhaul
- Thread starter denpo
- Start date
I found all the fittings I needed for metric adapters at NAPA. Take a look at the Edelman catalog posted above. I would be really surprised if they don't have them.
http://www.vettemod.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7030
denpo
Carburated Nihilist
Logically the smaller cylinder should translate to longer pedal travel and that should compensate for the hydroboost being more twitchy than the stock system. Well, that's my understanding so far, I haven't start bleeding and checking the brake yet. It sure will take time tweaking.
mrvette
Phantom of the Opera
I forget all the diameters from the vette project yet, but that Pirate Jack with my HB reacts just fine....AS I RECALL it's stock diameter pistons....
I HAD a iron truck larger dia m/cyl on the car to try getting some pedal back, but it was NO cure....still too long a toss on the pedal...with the old vacuum booster....the HB made it SO sensitive the vette tossed my head into the steering wheel.....with just a tap.....
so with the stock dia m/cyl and some relearning curve on my part, that thing will stop on a dime with 9 cents change....
:clap::clap::yahoo: I lived some ten years with that damn vacuum booster, and SO glad it's gone....I can actually STOP now.....
:shocking:
Bob Heine
Member
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- Sep 18, 2010
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The C3 master cylinders come in two sizes 1-inch bore and 1-1/8-inch bore. The smaller bore was for manual brakes. The manual brake master cylinder also mounts higher on the firewall to align with the manual brake hole in the pedal assembly. Just to make things interesting, the manual brake master cylinders and the power brake cylinders up through 1976 are "deep hole" pistons and the '77 and later masters are "shallow hole." (picture is from Hydratech site)
A stock C3 master cylinder bolts right on the hydroboost and the lines to the distribution block line up real close. I didn't have to do anything but nudge them to get them to line up. If your car came with manual brakes that isn't quite true but a set of power brake lines would work fine.
A stock C3 master cylinder bolts right on the hydroboost and the lines to the distribution block line up real close. I didn't have to do anything but nudge them to get them to line up. If your car came with manual brakes that isn't quite true but a set of power brake lines would work fine.
Bob Heine
Member
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- Sep 18, 2010
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- 5
I spend a fair amount of time under the hood but once my car is running, I don't spend a lot of time crawling around under the rear. For that reason I spent a bit more time on the hidden fuel and brake line connections.
I trust places like Inline Tube to make my hard lines and I don't like cutting and double flaring my brake lines. I have no experience and don't have a trusted place to have it done.
Fuel lines are a little different. My carbureted 72 is getting new stainless lines in place of the stock ones but I don't care for all the rubber lines at the ends. The fuel pump end is mostly braided line held tight with worm clamps, Only the pressure side of the pump is -6AN fittings from pump to carb. Summit sells a braided stainless kit for the Quadrajet but the pump connection was a 90-degree elbow, which made a tight bend in the line. I used a 180-degree fitting so the line goes out the front of the engine and up to the filter.
From the filter it goes up to the Quadrajet. The bracket holding the filter is just a piece of 1"x1/8" aluminum stock from Home Depot. Bent a right angle into the strap, wrapped the long end around a 13/16 spark plug socket and drilled a couple of holes to clamp the filter and mount the clamp on the water pump. Oh, and about three minutes on a belt sander and buffing wheel to clean it up.
The supply and return are -6AN and -4AN adapted to hard lines I think it's possible to modify the pump fittings I left alone, using Earl's compression adapters. The hard lines, including the tank supply line are easily modified with a 45-degree flare. The expensive tool is the 45-degree flaring tool because you want one that is well made enough to flare stainless tubing. The one in the picture does a fine job. I cut the dimple off the tube with a tubing cutter (gently so it doesn't harden), slipped on the nut and flare ring and then flared the end of the tube. The -6AN male to male coupler then completes the connection. Same process for the ends of the hard fuel lines and the system goes together with reliable flared connections. The diamond cutting disks (got these at Harbor Freight) mount on the supplied anvil and turn your Dremel tool into the best braided line cutter I've found (the whole anvil and chisel thing is beyond my abilities - if it takes more than one hand, I'm looking for an alternative).
I trust places like Inline Tube to make my hard lines and I don't like cutting and double flaring my brake lines. I have no experience and don't have a trusted place to have it done.
Fuel lines are a little different. My carbureted 72 is getting new stainless lines in place of the stock ones but I don't care for all the rubber lines at the ends. The fuel pump end is mostly braided line held tight with worm clamps, Only the pressure side of the pump is -6AN fittings from pump to carb. Summit sells a braided stainless kit for the Quadrajet but the pump connection was a 90-degree elbow, which made a tight bend in the line. I used a 180-degree fitting so the line goes out the front of the engine and up to the filter.
From the filter it goes up to the Quadrajet. The bracket holding the filter is just a piece of 1"x1/8" aluminum stock from Home Depot. Bent a right angle into the strap, wrapped the long end around a 13/16 spark plug socket and drilled a couple of holes to clamp the filter and mount the clamp on the water pump. Oh, and about three minutes on a belt sander and buffing wheel to clean it up.
The supply and return are -6AN and -4AN adapted to hard lines I think it's possible to modify the pump fittings I left alone, using Earl's compression adapters. The hard lines, including the tank supply line are easily modified with a 45-degree flare. The expensive tool is the 45-degree flaring tool because you want one that is well made enough to flare stainless tubing. The one in the picture does a fine job. I cut the dimple off the tube with a tubing cutter (gently so it doesn't harden), slipped on the nut and flare ring and then flared the end of the tube. The -6AN male to male coupler then completes the connection. Same process for the ends of the hard fuel lines and the system goes together with reliable flared connections. The diamond cutting disks (got these at Harbor Freight) mount on the supplied anvil and turn your Dremel tool into the best braided line cutter I've found (the whole anvil and chisel thing is beyond my abilities - if it takes more than one hand, I'm looking for an alternative).
Bob Heine
Member
- Joined
- Sep 18, 2010
- Messages
- 5
Denbo, be very careful because you can end up going nuts with braided line. The high pressure Teflon stuff, as you probably know, uses special fittings, You'll end up with braided lines and filters on your hydroboost and steering systems.
Then you'll want a B&M cooler and since you'll probably have a few fittings and scraps of Teflon hose left over...
...you'll be welding AN fittings to the power steering pump reservoir.
That cooler is going to get you thinking about your transmission and you'll find Inline Tube transmission lines adapted to the Teflon and the radiator cooler and from there to the TCI cooler.
Not feeling so good.... I'm thinking about a custom IV line....
Then you'll want a B&M cooler and since you'll probably have a few fittings and scraps of Teflon hose left over...
...you'll be welding AN fittings to the power steering pump reservoir.
That cooler is going to get you thinking about your transmission and you'll find Inline Tube transmission lines adapted to the Teflon and the radiator cooler and from there to the TCI cooler.
Not feeling so good.... I'm thinking about a custom IV line....
denpo
Carburated Nihilist
Bob that was three awesome posts, thanks a lot.
Yeah, I got some kind of teflon line fever, I'm redoing my PS/hydroboost/borgerson hoses with them.
Right now I have clearance issue with my fuel pump, it has 1/2 npt port and the AN fitting are touching the frame, got to find an 1/2npt 90° elbow. Apart from that I'm moving forward smoothly, will try to post pics ASAP.
Yeah, I got some kind of teflon line fever, I'm redoing my PS/hydroboost/borgerson hoses with them.
Right now I have clearance issue with my fuel pump, it has 1/2 npt port and the AN fitting are touching the frame, got to find an 1/2npt 90° elbow. Apart from that I'm moving forward smoothly, will try to post pics ASAP.
Last edited:
Bob Heine
Member
- Joined
- Sep 18, 2010
- Messages
- 5
In your earlier post shows a non-stock fuel pump (no return fitting). You might want to replace the pump and then see what you need. I originally had the 90-degree fitting that came with Summit's fuel line kit and that solved the frame clearance issue. Unfortunately it put the braided line in direct contact with the block, giving me a small worry about heating the fuel on its way to the carburetor. That's why you see the 180-degree fitting on my pump.
I bought quite a bit of braided line and more than a few AN fittings from Summit. When I was looking for some of the specialty fittings for the hydroboost, I came across the Aeroquip site. The prices on most of the braided lines and fittings were better. Aeroquip didn't have all the fittings I was looking for so I went to Earl's site for those. If you are already ordering stuff from Summit and you just need a couple of fittings, the lower shipping charges will probably beat the other two sites' prices. If you need the special AN fittings for the hydroboost, Hydratech and Tallon Hydraulics have them (Tallon also has stuff like double and triple hose separators),
Aeroquip: http://www.aeroquip.cc/index.aspx
Earl's: http://www.anplumbing.com/shop/
Hydratech: [/url]http://www.hydratechbraking.com/[/url]
Tallon: http://www.talonhydraulics.com/store/
denpo
Carburated Nihilist
As promised here's my modest contribution to braided SS hose cutting.
All was done in the respect of the ghetto tradition
The setup : a big construction chisel, a thick piece of aluminum, some wood, so sheet metal and here we go.
I was not happy with my previous chisel attempts, the teflon hose inside was getting badly crushed, it might be okay, but I just don't want to try this out.
So I bought a stick of wood of the correct size, and stick a piece into the hose.
As you can see there is a groove to align the hose.
Ready to shoot
I use a sledgehammer, maybe overkill, but that all I have.
Result of one single strong shot
The wood piece did his job, the hose is deformed, but did not totally fold.
I do consider this a nice cut, you tell me.
Last step, remove the wooden cork
I usually put tape where I cut, this was just to show how clean is can be.
All was done in the respect of the ghetto tradition
The setup : a big construction chisel, a thick piece of aluminum, some wood, so sheet metal and here we go.
I was not happy with my previous chisel attempts, the teflon hose inside was getting badly crushed, it might be okay, but I just don't want to try this out.
So I bought a stick of wood of the correct size, and stick a piece into the hose.
As you can see there is a groove to align the hose.
Ready to shoot
I use a sledgehammer, maybe overkill, but that all I have.
Result of one single strong shot
The wood piece did his job, the hose is deformed, but did not totally fold.
I do consider this a nice cut, you tell me.
Last step, remove the wooden cork
I usually put tape where I cut, this was just to show how clean is can be.
denpo
Carburated Nihilist
I got to admit I've been kind of procrastinating on this.
I still have to make the line that will connect my 3/16 non Corvette aluminum MC to the proportioning valve, which accept 1/4 line.
I know I already asked for it, but I want to make sure you guy really understand me :
Well, procrastinating maybe not the right word, truth is I still have this little voice that tells me that it's just wrong to mess with brake like size.
So, for the last time can someone clears me of any wrongdoing, or steer me away from a big mistake.
:noob::tomato:
I still have to make the line that will connect my 3/16 non Corvette aluminum MC to the proportioning valve, which accept 1/4 line.
I know I already asked for it, but I want to make sure you guy really understand me :
Well, procrastinating maybe not the right word, truth is I still have this little voice that tells me that it's just wrong to mess with brake like size.
So, for the last time can someone clears me of any wrongdoing, or steer me away from a big mistake.
:noob::tomato:
MYBAD79
Moderator
What's the stock size ? 3/16" or 1/4" ??
keep in mind it's pound per sq inch.... whatever pressure the master provides to the system is what you get at the calipers regardless of line size. Now you don't want the lines too large as they need to be stronger (and thicker) the larger the size, the pressure might burst a line if the diameter is too large....
Changing line size is more a problem in systems/lines where you see higher flow, in the brake system is pretty much no flow unless there's a leak (very little flow because little piston travel)
Now I am not sure how that proportioning valve works and if the smaller line could cause a problem here...do you want to change both front/rear or just one of the two ??
denpo
Carburated Nihilist
Stock, the front line are 3/16'', the rear are 1/4''.
Front it not a problem, I just made a line with metric on the MC side, imperial on the other side (actually the line lock valve).
The rear is the challenge, the MC which is a scrapyard find has 3/16'' port for front and rear.
Everything is brand new in term of lines.
If I read you right, that would not change the pressure I get at the rear, and since the stock system is 1/4 by design, no reason it would not withstand the pressure. Sounds good!
I completed my own garden-sprayer brake bleeder recently, just need to find out the plug/bleeder layout on the back and I can fill the system.:smash:
MYBAD79
Moderator
What's the thread size on these MC fittings ? 7/16" ?? You can get 1/4" line fittings with 7/16" threads at the parts store, just have to cut and re-flare the line..... I just cut/flared a brake line for my Mustang at the lcal part store..... they have all kinds of fittings ....
