Twin_Turbo
Der Maulwurf
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- Mar 5, 2008
- Messages
- 7,575
Yes, if you remove someone's quote, don't forget to remove the nested starting tag. Fixed now.
C3-Jeep Steering Gear Conversion
- Thread starter BBShark
- Start date
Anyone have the Borgeson part number for the u-joint?
I've seen a couple of part numbers for the Borgeson U-joint but I'm not sure which one is correct. To my understanding, the Vette has a 1 inch 48 spline shaft and the Jeep box is suppose to have an 18mm double D input size, which would be designated by 8DDx148. The part number I've seen is Jegs 153-114349, but this corresponds to a 3/4" input size, not the 18mm of the Jeep (I think the stock Vette box input is a 3/4DD). Can anyone confirm which Borgeson joint attaches a Vette to the Jeep box? Part numbers?
I've seen a couple of part numbers for the Borgeson U-joint but I'm not sure which one is correct. To my understanding, the Vette has a 1 inch 48 spline shaft and the Jeep box is suppose to have an 18mm double D input size, which would be designated by 8DDx148. The part number I've seen is Jegs 153-114349, but this corresponds to a 3/4" input size, not the 18mm of the Jeep (I think the stock Vette box input is a 3/4DD). Can anyone confirm which Borgeson joint attaches a Vette to the Jeep box? Part numbers?
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My Jeep box measures 16mm across the flats. 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee.
Kid Vette
Master-Baiter
Here's the dimensions of the Jeep input shaft. Note that they are not symetrical. You'll want the 16mm Borguson joint and then tighten the set screw against the flat with the 7.36/7.46 dimension going to it.
Kid Vette
Master-Baiter
D'oh!! I just discovered some of the above information is bogus. I posted from work off my memory which is obviously faulty.Here's the dimensions of the Jeep input shaft. Note that they are not symetrical. You'll want the 16mm Borguson joint and then tighten the set screw against the flat with the 7.36/7.46 dimension going to it.
I just checked the input shaft out of a Jeep box I have here. The OD is .73" and the distance across the flats is .61". According to the Borgeson catalog that is an 18mm DD or their designation "8DD". Sorry for the confusion. The drawing is correct.
Just call me "The Durango Kid" :gurney:
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Kid Vette
Master-Baiter
mrvette
Phantom of the Opera
D'oh!! I just discovered some of the above information is bogus. I posted from work off my memory which is obviously faulty.Here's the dimensions of the Jeep input shaft. Note that they are not symetrical. You'll want the 16mm Borguson joint and then tighten the set screw against the flat with the 7.36/7.46 dimension going to it.
I just checked the input shaft out of a Jeep box I have here. The OD is .73" and the distance across the flats is .61". According to the Borgeson catalog that is an 18mm DD or their designation "8DD". Sorry for the confusion. The drawing is correct.
Just call me "The Durango Kid" :gurney:
HEHE>...we can have a new phrase for it....doin' a Durango....
prrtt::shocking::hunter:Jeep box
Boy, how did I miss this thread!!! But, better late than never! Couple of questions, What year Jeep steering box was used and is it the small jeep or the SUV type jeep? And is anyone getting any more of the spacer brackets made? If not, what is the name of the shop that cut the brackets? Thanks in advance! CJ
Boy, how did I miss this thread!!! But, better late than never! Couple of questions, What year Jeep steering box was used and is it the small jeep or the SUV type jeep? And is anyone getting any more of the spacer brackets made? If not, what is the name of the shop that cut the brackets? Thanks in advance! CJ
Yellow73SB
Well-known member
- Joined
- Mar 24, 2008
- Messages
- 1,201
Borgeson U-Joint
I ordered a stainless U-joint from Borgeson through Summit racing. I think the price was about $88. I was given a part number of 114350. "11" stands for stainless steel (10 being the designation for regular steel). "43" represents the 48 spline Vette steering shaft. "50" represents 8DD, for the 18mm double-D of the Jeep box. At least this is what the Summit parts guy explained to me. It sounded like he had someone in the office on the phone with Borgeson as they created this part number, as it is not a standard offering. I hope it fits, as they said it would be shipped at the end of the month.
I ordered a stainless U-joint from Borgeson through Summit racing. I think the price was about $88. I was given a part number of 114350. "11" stands for stainless steel (10 being the designation for regular steel). "43" represents the 48 spline Vette steering shaft. "50" represents 8DD, for the 18mm double-D of the Jeep box. At least this is what the Summit parts guy explained to me. It sounded like he had someone in the office on the phone with Borgeson as they created this part number, as it is not a standard offering. I hope it fits, as they said it would be shipped at the end of the month.
chris75stingray
Active member
- Joined
- Aug 29, 2008
- Messages
- 35
that will save me from buying a new nonpower steering relay rod. i've heard of people filling the stock control valve with washers or something like that but this is a much better piece.
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/1973-1977-GM-INTERMEDIATE-PITMAN-ARM,7393.html
is this the pitman arm that is needed to go from the jeep box to the corvette relay rod? it doesn't say if it's for power steering or not
badbirdcage
Well-known member
OK. I've been following this very interesting thread. I am impressed with the engineering abilities of several of the posters and enjoy the CAD drawings. (at least I think they are CAD drawings)
So I picked up my car last night (C-2) from the alignment shop after installing the Jeep P/S box and VBP offset upper control arms.
Like many of you say you are going to do I was originally going to piece together a conversion kit for the Jeep steering mod. I spoke with a friend who did this conversion on his car over 15 years ago and he recommended I go with Corvette Steering for the following reasons.
Tom has already done the engineering for you. He supplies a new Jeep P/S box, he has already machined it to bolt directly onto your chassis, he supplies the correct Borgeson u-joint to connect the Jeep box to your steering column, he supplies the hoses, the bolts, the spacers and you retain your stock Corvette pitman arm. That's right; you retain your original pitman arm instead of chasing a Chevelle or other pitman arm.
In my case I replaced the P/S center link with a manual center link to gain the larger, stronger joint that bolts to the original Corvette pitman arm.
Since I am running a hydro-boost brake booster I had to do some fabrication and plumbing for the hose setup. I saved a few bucks with Tom that way as he kept the hoses and gave me a credit for them. Tom is a pleasure to deal with. When you consider price you need to remember that he has done all the engineering for you, he supplies a complete kit to you and is just a phone call away if and when you need assistance while installing his setup.
OR you can chase the junk yards and pay for a Jeep box that might or might not be in good condition, pay to have it machined to properly fit the bolt pattern on your chassis, figure out your spacers and bolts, figure out what joint you need, figure out your hoses, pitman arm, etc. Your money, your call.
I have to say that my car now drives like a more modern vehicle. It is more stable at speed (that has to do with the new caster/camber settings on the alignment, not the steering box swap) and the steering ratio is much faster than the original Corvette factory P/S setup.
Rich
So I picked up my car last night (C-2) from the alignment shop after installing the Jeep P/S box and VBP offset upper control arms.
Like many of you say you are going to do I was originally going to piece together a conversion kit for the Jeep steering mod. I spoke with a friend who did this conversion on his car over 15 years ago and he recommended I go with Corvette Steering for the following reasons.
Tom has already done the engineering for you. He supplies a new Jeep P/S box, he has already machined it to bolt directly onto your chassis, he supplies the correct Borgeson u-joint to connect the Jeep box to your steering column, he supplies the hoses, the bolts, the spacers and you retain your stock Corvette pitman arm. That's right; you retain your original pitman arm instead of chasing a Chevelle or other pitman arm.
In my case I replaced the P/S center link with a manual center link to gain the larger, stronger joint that bolts to the original Corvette pitman arm.
Since I am running a hydro-boost brake booster I had to do some fabrication and plumbing for the hose setup. I saved a few bucks with Tom that way as he kept the hoses and gave me a credit for them. Tom is a pleasure to deal with. When you consider price you need to remember that he has done all the engineering for you, he supplies a complete kit to you and is just a phone call away if and when you need assistance while installing his setup.
OR you can chase the junk yards and pay for a Jeep box that might or might not be in good condition, pay to have it machined to properly fit the bolt pattern on your chassis, figure out your spacers and bolts, figure out what joint you need, figure out your hoses, pitman arm, etc. Your money, your call.
I have to say that my car now drives like a more modern vehicle. It is more stable at speed (that has to do with the new caster/camber settings on the alignment, not the steering box swap) and the steering ratio is much faster than the original Corvette factory P/S setup.
Rich
Yellow73SB
Well-known member
- Joined
- Mar 24, 2008
- Messages
- 1,201
I'll have about 200 bucks in mine if I buy that center link from ecklers
A little extra effort is worth 475 dollars to me
A little extra effort is worth 475 dollars to me
badbirdcage
Well-known member
Like I said; your money, your call. Good luck with it and I hope you are as happy with the final result as I am.
Rich
Rich
mrvette
Phantom of the Opera
Gotta disagree with your comment above....I think eliminating that olde tyme 50's tech truck steering control valve is worth as much as a total rebuild on the stock front end, especially with MODERN TIRES/wheels....
MY fresh '72 was just OK, with stock rims/radial tires....BUT when going to the modern rims/tires...just 255/50/17 the steering was all over the joint....
not the box either, the control valve was only thing left....
put a rack in, cured the problem....IMO...case closed....
badbirdcage
Well-known member
You may disagree if you want. I will not dismiss your experience. It obviously works for you. In my case I am running basically stock size (205/75-15) tires on the car (63). Everything is new up front.
I have driven only one C-2 with a rack installed (65 with Steeroids conversion). I didn't drive it a long distance but I was not comfortable with the feel of the steering or the way the front end reacted to movement of the steering wheel while I was driving it. The owner said he had to adapt to the system and was used to it. He cautioned me that it might feel "twitchy". This car was running larger wheels and tires than I do (his were off a C-3)
I previously owned a 78 with stock P/S and had the car for nine years while putting about 45,000 miles on it. I didn't experience any problems with the front end on the car and it drove nicely (I rebuilt the complete suspension upon acquisition of the car). Perhaps the wider wheel/tire combination on the C-3 works better with a stock GM setup.
Rich
mrvette
Phantom of the Opera
Well you see, that's the whole thing, you had 15" and 60 series tires...
I have 17x9.5 rims off C4 all the way around 275in rear 255 in front....
makes one hell of a difference.......I can only guess is they were 18+.....
:stirpot:
I have 17x9.5 rims off C4 all the way around 275in rear 255 in front....
makes one hell of a difference.......I can only guess is they were 18+.....
:stirpot:
