Cam Degreeing.

[kwplot34]

Yes my bad on the .540 that is not at .5 sorry about that.

I would think that you mean that your valve lift with 1.6 ratio rockers is .510" ????

With stock 1.5 ratio rockers the valve lift would be .506"

Again: a stroker SB with that cam and 11:1CR should have a lot of power off idle... just for shitz and grins I'd put a stock HEI dizzy with vacuum advance on there, check and adjust timing and see how it runs.

I think i have probably caused confusion with my bad typing,the lift on my cam is .540,and i have 1.6 ratio rockers.My bad for messing that up.
I just think it should have more off idle,but i could be wrong,we will get it looked into next week :bump:

Yeah Bird,me being crazy and needing more ponies are 2 totaly diffrent subjects.

But on a brighter note i was in the garage checking my plugs and dizzy and guess what i found :twitch: one of springs was off on the mech advance,that could cause a problem on the low end all of the timming comming in instantly.
I will test drive it tommorow,i have one neighbor that has complained about me running my car late at night :cussing::cussing: He actually walked a good 200yds or more and came up my drive way and bitched me out. Damm city people need to go back where they came from :skeptic:

 

[MYBAD79]

I think i have probably caused confusion with my bad typing,the lift on my cam is .540,and i have 1.6 ratio rockers.My bad for messing that up.

No you did not cause confusion, but I think I did

I typed .510" instead of .540"

your lift with stock rockers seems to be .506" and .540" with the 1.6 ratio rockers,

Cam lobe lift is .3375" (.3375*1.6=.540), (.3375*1.5=.50625")

 

[kwplot34]

I think i have probably caused confusion with my bad typing,the lift on my cam is .540,and i have 1.6 ratio rockers.My bad for messing that up.

No you did not cause confusion, but I think I did

I typed .510" instead of .540"

your lift with stock rockers seems to be .506" and .540" with the 1.6 ratio rockers,

Cam lobe lift is .3375" (.3375*1.6=.540), (.3375*1.5=.50625")

ush:Ahh now we are on the same page :smash: funny how this typing thing can just throw a wrench in the works :wink:

Pulled the plugs and they all look good,the front 2 on each side look a little richer than the rear 2 cyl's. other than that they look fine.

 

[kwplot34]

After checking all the plugs (and they look great) and reinstalling and putting a spring back on mech advance i decided to take a closer look at the cap and rotor,and are they ever fried,the little carbon point in the center of the cap was gone :flash:. So i decided the hell with it and ordered all new tune up parts today. Can't believe in about 1k miles the cap and rotor was already shot :search:
I bet it runs alot better on the low end once i replace these parts :waxer:

 

[MYBAD79]

It appears there are as many MSD lovers than haters... god knows why it was fried after only 1000 miles but I'd definitely try a stock dizzy to see if it makes a difference... do you have a stock dizzy somewhere ??

 

[BRUTAL64]

If you have a 388 with that cam you shouldn't have any problems. My guess is that you either have a to small lca (108) causing a lot of blow back into the intake at low rpm compromising the mixture in that amount that it leans out and gets difficult to ride.
If you want a high rpm cam that still stays streetable you absolutly have to go towards 112-114° lca.

I would also check you ignition advance.

Your right. I have the 30 30 cam with 114 lsa and I can start out in third gear with out riding the clutch. 30 30 cam has 254* at .050. h:

 

[big2bird]

After checking all the plugs (and they look great) and reinstalling and putting a spring back on mech advance i decided to take a closer look at the cap and rotor,and are they ever fried,the little carbon point in the center of the cap was gone :flash:. So i decided the hell with it and ordered all new tune up parts today. Can't believe in about 1k miles the cap and rotor was already shot :search:
I bet it runs alot better on the low end once i replace these parts :waxer:

I DO. That plug gap they told you to use was INSANE.

 

[BRUTAL64]

After checking all the plugs (and they look great) and reinstalling and putting a spring back on mech advance i decided to take a closer look at the cap and rotor,and are they ever fried,the little carbon point in the center of the cap was gone :flash:. So i decided the hell with it and ordered all new tune up parts today. Can't believe in about 1k miles the cap and rotor was already shot :search:
I bet it runs alot better on the low end once i replace these parts :waxer:

I DO. That plug gap they told you to use was INSANE.

What gap was this??????:confused2:

 

[kwplot34]

After checking all the plugs (and they look great) and reinstalling and putting a spring back on mech advance i decided to take a closer look at the cap and rotor,and are they ever fried,the little carbon point in the center of the cap was gone :flash:. So i decided the hell with it and ordered all new tune up parts today. Can't believe in about 1k miles the cap and rotor was already shot :search:
I bet it runs alot better on the low end once i replace these parts :waxer:

I DO. That plug gap they told you to use was INSANE.

What gap was this??????:confused2:

Using the recommended plugs for race fuel from Brodix they are NGK can't remember the part# and gapped at .55,they are now back to .45,i'm sure that has something to do with it.Plus the fact i had Accel wires with that fibre core,i replaced those earlier this year after having a couple of dead cyl's,my ign system fried those and that was before i replaced the plugs with the .55 gap. Did some reading and found out i can not run those wires with my ign because it will burn them up,so i replaced them with the Taylor wires with the copper core.
My guess is between the old wires and the wide gap did the cap and rotor in.
Bottom line i'm finding that ign parts got destroyed because i did not use proper parts and set up,but everything is good now or will be when the rest of the parts come in and i should not have any more problems with ign parts.

I HOPE :smash::smash::smash:

My failure to read instructions is costing me money :footmouth:

 

[kwplot34]

It appears there are as many MSD lovers than haters... god knows why it was fried after only 1000 miles but I'd definitely try a stock dizzy to see if it makes a difference... do you have a stock dizzy somewhere ??

I can't realy point my finger at MSD for these problems.It's a combination of the dizzy,ign box,and that big ass coil i have,and my failure to follow directions properly and installed some mismatched parts :clobbered:
Live and learn form my mistakes :quote:

 

[MYBAD79]

I'm not blaming MSD either but I'm wondering if you really need all this fancy ignition stuff... just my2cents... if a stock style vacuum advance dizzy does the job just as good I'd just sell the MSD stuff and recoup some money, it should sell for way more than a dizzy cost you...

 

[kwplot34]

I'm not blaming MSD either but I'm wondering if you really need all this fancy ignition stuff... just my2cents... if a stock style vacuum advance dizzy does the job just as good I'd just sell the MSD stuff and recoup some money, it should sell for way more than a dizzy cost you...

Do i realy need all of that stuff? No! I have run the motor with a standard HEI when i first installed the motor and switched over to this setup shortly after,and i can tell you there is a diffrence in the way the motor performs.It idles much better and rpm's climb faster,so it does make a diffrence.
But no i do not need it.
I plan on keeping the set up,i just need to set it up properly so i don't have any more problems,and i think i have it all ironed out now.

 

[MYBAD79]

I have run the motor with a standard HEI when i first installed the motor and switched over to this setup shortly after,and i can tell you there is a diffrence in the way the motor performs.It idles much better and rpm's climb faster,so it does make a diffrence.

Now we're on the same page (again) ... I didn't know you ran the engine with the stock HEI dizzy...

 

[BRUTAL64]

I'm not blaming MSD either but I'm wondering if you really need all this fancy ignition stuff... just my2cents... if a stock style vacuum advance dizzy does the job just as good I'd just sell the MSD stuff and recoup some money, it should sell for way more than a dizzy cost you...

I started using MSD boxes in 78. Quit using them in the 90s. Too many failures. Not just me- all my friend and strangers too. I hope they got their shit together now.:smash:

 

[kwplot34]

I'm not blaming MSD either but I'm wondering if you really need all this fancy ignition stuff... just my2cents... if a stock style vacuum advance dizzy does the job just as good I'd just sell the MSD stuff and recoup some money, it should sell for way more than a dizzy cost you...

I started using MSD boxes in 78. Quit using them in the 90s. Too many failures. Not just me- all my friend and strangers too. I hope they got their shit together now.:smash:

I don't use MSD ign boxes either,i have a Mallory HighFire box :nuts:digital with a rev limiter.

 

[BRUTAL64]

I'm not blaming MSD either but I'm wondering if you really need all this fancy ignition stuff... just my2cents... if a stock style vacuum advance dizzy does the job just as good I'd just sell the MSD stuff and recoup some money, it should sell for way more than a dizzy cost you...

I started using MSD boxes in 78. Quit using them in the 90s. Too many failures. Not just me- all my friend and strangers too. I hope they got their shit together now.:smash:

I don't use MSD ign boxes either,i have a Mallory HighFire box :nuts:digital with a rev limiter.

Those and the Accel mulit-spark box -- I have heard nothinig but good things about. Especally from the Vice-pres at Accel-Mr. Gasket.

 

[kwplot34]

I'm not blaming MSD either but I'm wondering if you really need all this fancy ignition stuff... just my2cents... if a stock style vacuum advance dizzy does the job just as good I'd just sell the MSD stuff and recoup some money, it should sell for way more than a dizzy cost you...

I started using MSD boxes in 78. Quit using them in the 90s. Too many failures. Not just me- all my friend and strangers too. I hope they got their shit together now.:smash:

I don't use MSD ign boxes either,i have a Mallory HighFire box :nuts:digital with a rev limiter.

Those and the Accel mulit-spark box -- I have heard nothinig but good things about. Especally fromt the Vice-pres at Accel-Mr. Gasket.

Finally i have something on my car that somebody approves of :harhar:J/K

Well the fed-ex truck showed up with new parts today,got them installed and took Heart Attack out for a test drive :devil: and i'm happy to say Heart Attack has it's heart beat back :beer:
But,there always has to be a BUT :banghead: i still have a slight/quick hesitation. If you mash the throttle down fast and hard there is a plit sec pause in first and when you shift to second, if you roll into the throttle it's not there,i have chased this problem all year.So far to try and fix the problem i have made sure the timming and advance is good (Tim helped me with that) have changed out the springs in the secondary,and today installed a bigger squirter in the primary accel pump from a .31 to a .35. The hesitation has gotten better but there is still something i'm missing,i believe it is in the carb set up since the changes to the carb make the biggest improvements. I have a Road Demon 725 VS carb.
Any suggstions?:idea: Maybe Jeff can find next week for me.
I don't think it's the jetting since the plugs do not show a rich condition.They have a nice tan color with a slight bit of black on the base ring,and the heat range looks good too according to the heat band on the bridge.

 

[grumpyvette]

since no one went into much detail on HOW to degree in a cam this should help

youll need a few basic tools and a good understanding of what your doing, but its certainly not all that difficult.

I was asked where to get a CHEAP degree wheel

heres one you can print out and save for engine builds on the engine stand
(put curser on an click)

http://savetheledges.org/test/AVS/images/tech/CrankDegreeWheel.png

http://store.summitracing.com/partd...&part=MOR-62191&N=700+303547+115&autoview=sku

BTW you CAN advance or retard the roller timing chain its done bye drilling out the cam index pin hole in the timing gear and installing an off set bushing

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=CCA-4760&autoview=sku





you could buy these from summit racing or similar parts from jegs


this is 180 degrees out (the distrib rotor points at cylinder #6, so before you drop in the distrib rotate the crank 360 degrees bring both marks to the 12 o-clock location, then drop in the distrib pointing to cylinder #1, and adjust ignition timing from that point

http://www.summitracing.com/

http://www.jegs.com sells this KIT
Comp Cams #249-4796
http://www.jegs.com/i/Comp Cams/249/4796/10002/-1

and you can buy these

MOR-62191 $44 (wheel)

MOR-61755 $47 (SBC)
MOR-61756 $47.(BBC)crank sockets

SUM-900188 $17 (piston stop, head off)
SUM-900189 $6.95(piston stop, head on)

TFS-90000 $94.95 (degree kit)

youll also want two flat tappet solid lifters and two weak check springs


http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=PRO-66838&N=700+115&autoview=sku
instructions

YEAH READING THRU THE LINKS IS WORTH THE TIME AND EFFORT

http://www.iskycams.com/camshaft.html

http://www.thedirtforum.com/degree.htm

http://www.ridgenet.net/~biesiade/camdegree.htm

http://www.hotrodder.com/kwkride/degree.html

http://www.cranecams.com/pdf/803.pdf

http://www.pontiacstreetperformance.com/psp/camshaft.html

http://www.compcams.com/Technical/Instructions/Files/145.pdf