Coil Spring R&R problem

keywestjack

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 24, 2008
Messages
258
I think I made my life a little difficult. I removed the engin on my 77 to be rebuilt. While out I also took the body off so that I could work on the frame. I moved to the front end and was going to replace bushings, ball joints, etc. I got the spring out on the right side using a coil spring compresser. It was difficult but it came out. I moved to the left and cant seem to get the compresser to work due to lack of space and and get a good enough compression. I am thinking about using an inch thick aluminum plate on the bottom of the lower control arm and passing the screw through and using it to pull the upper portion of the compresser. What do you think? It should make installing my replacement springs easier too. Part of the problem is that the frame is so light without the engine and body and my coil spring compesser may be too long. Thanks for your help. Jack
 
here's a pic of the coil spring compressor that I built from HomeDepot parts. Insert it thru the upper shock hole in the frame. Works great and is safe...

IM003268.jpg

.IM003269.jpg
.
IM003271.jpg
 
I would trust the compressor a lot more than a homemade setup.

If you can't get it out, you won't get it in either.
I just use a jack under the arm to remove them.
Try jacking the front way up on good stands, then using the spring compressor, and lowering the bottom arm until it is almost verticle and jack up with guiding the spring into the pockets.
Shouldn't make a diff if the body is on or off with the compressor.

Is this the kind you're using?

SpringCompressor.jpg



Get arm low enough

IMG_2734.jpg
 
I would trust the compressor a lot more than a homemade setup.

If you can't get it out, you won't get it in either.
I just use a jack under the arm to remove them.
Try jacking the front way up on good stands, then using the spring compressor, and lowering the bottom arm until it is almost verticle and jack up with guiding the spring into the pockets.
Shouldn't make a diff if the body is on or off with the compressor.

Is this the kind you're using?

SpringCompressor.jpg



Get arm low enough

IMG_2734.jpg


Yep, that looks like mine.
 
Obviously it has worked well for you, your still here.:)
I agree with the fitting.

He was talking about a thick aluminum plate (almost impossible to bend even if it is the right grade) and he already had the right tool.
If the right tool didn't work then.....
I've seen the homemade jobs slip and springs fly, pretty scary even for me and I take chances.
And most threaded rod is eqiv to grade 2, probably still enough though.

You must admit, the proper compressor fits the spring nicely. :wink:
 
Simple. Figure out which one of your buddies has the fattest GF/wife. Then invite them over and have them sit on the frame to simulate the engine being in.

Really I like the homemade set up myself and if you are worried fish a chain threw the spring and wrap it around the frame. Then even if the compressor slips the spring isn't going anywhere.

Just a warning. Make sure your compressors bolt/rod fits threw the hole on the frame. Scale can build up around the hole and make the bolt/rod get stuck. If that happens do not hit it with a hammer to free it up. The spring can come loose of the compressor and almost take your head off. Don't ask me how I know this either!
 
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Obviously it has worked well for you, your still here.:)
I agree with the fitting.

He was talking about a thick aluminum plate (almost impossible to bend even if it is the right grade) and he already had the right tool.
If the right tool didn't work then.....
I've seen the homemade jobs slip and springs fly, pretty scary even for me and I take chances.
And most threaded rod is eqiv to grade 2, probably still enough though.

You must admit, the proper compressor fits the spring nicely. :wink:

Decades ago a Pontiac mechanic buddy told me of a spring that came outta some old Catalina, ZZZZINGED by his ear, and bounced all over the garage, hit all 99 walls, ceiling, floor, and finally settled down, if he had been another inch closer it would have killed him flat.....he gave me fair warning, and so EVERY TIME I do any coil springs, I CHAIN or at least 1/2 inch boating rope that sucker to the lower A arm....so WHEN IT GOES, it won't come outta there and kill me/someone else, or the car....:surrender::eek::smash::twitch:

I had one pop on me and it was chained, the ringing was impressive them damn things are one tough bitch...

:thumbs:
 
Simple. Figure out which one of your buddies has the fattest GF/wife. Then invite them over and have them sit on the frame to simulate the engine being in.

Really I like the homemade set up myself and if you are worried fish a chain threw the spring and wrap it around the frame. Then even if the compressor slips the spring isn't going anywhere.

Just a warning. Make sure your compressors bolt/rod fits threw the hole on the frame. Scale can build up around the hole and make the bolt/rod get stuck. If that happens do not hit it with a hammer to free it up. The spring can come loose of the compressor and almost take your head off. Don't ask me how I know this either!

:clap::clap: you beat me to it, almost identical post....:twitch::smash:
 
Simple. Figure out which one of your buddies has the fattest GF/wife. Then invite them over and have them sit on the frame to simulate the engine being in.

Really I like the homemade set up myself and if you are worried fish a chain threw the spring and wrap it around the frame. Then even if the compressor slips the spring isn't going anywhere.

Just a warning. Make sure your compressors bolt/rod fits threw the hole on the frame. Scale can build up around the hole and make the bolt/rod get stuck. If that happens do not hit it with a hammer to free it up. The spring can come loose of the compressor and almost take your head off. Don't ask me how I know this either!


I love this post!
 
Simple. Figure out which one of your buddies has the fattest GF/wife. Then invite them over and have them sit on the frame to simulate the engine being in.


Keep a list of who's GF/wife is good for simulating a SB, a BB or a LS swap.... :clap::clap::clap::clap:
 
You must admit, the proper compressor fits the spring nicely. :wink:

Fitment is very important. I used external compressors in the past and those won't fit the C3 at all. I built my own because I wanted the threaded rod to go thru the upper shock mounting hole, that way the spring is compressed and secured to the frame. Unless the rod snaps it is impossible to shoot the spring across the garage...
 
I think I made my life a little difficult. I removed the engin on my 77 to be rebuilt. While out I also took the body off so that I could work on the frame. I moved to the front end and was going to replace bushings, ball joints, etc. I got the spring out on the right side using a coil spring compresser. It was difficult but it came out. I moved to the left and cant seem to get the compresser to work due to lack of space and and get a good enough compression. I am thinking about using an inch thick aluminum plate on the bottom of the lower control arm and passing the screw through and using it to pull the upper portion of the compresser. What do you think? It should make installing my replacement springs easier too. Part of the problem is that the frame is so light without the engine and body and my coil spring compesser may be too long. Thanks for your help. Jack

You could put a 4x4 and a jack between the frame and the garage roof framing. Just think it out well. It works.
 
I think I made my life a little difficult. I removed the engin on my 77 to be rebuilt. While out I also took the body off so that I could work on the frame. I moved to the front end and was going to replace bushings, ball joints, etc. I got the spring out on the right side using a coil spring compresser. It was difficult but it came out. I moved to the left and cant seem to get the compresser to work due to lack of space and and get a good enough compression. I am thinking about using an inch thick aluminum plate on the bottom of the lower control arm and passing the screw through and using it to pull the upper portion of the compresser. What do you think? It should make installing my replacement springs easier too. Part of the problem is that the frame is so light without the engine and body and my coil spring compesser may be too long. Thanks for your help. Jack

You could put a 4x4 and a jack between the frame and the garage roof framing. Just think it out well. It works.

And if you don't think it out well you will have that extra height for the hoist you always wanted.:D
 
Aint it easiest to get a length of chain with a couple bolts, and some nice wide hooks, put a hook on the jack axle under the lifting cup, hook the frame as necessary with the other hook, wrap the chain? whatever necessary, and then shorten with some 3/8 nutz/bolts....jack away...keeps car from lifting with the A arm....

:smash::thumbs:
 
Thanks guys, what I think I'll do will do is go from the lower and the aluminum plate then unload the spring with the top portion of the compressor. The plate will make a stable spot for the compressor screw. Kind of similar to the suggestion of MYBAD79 but going through the lower control arm, then unload and remove the spring. Install new spring in the reverse order.
 
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You must admit, the proper compressor fits the spring nicely. :wink:

Fitment is very important. I used external compressors in the past and those won't fit the C3 at all. I built my own because I wanted the threaded rod to go thru the upper shock mounting hole, that way the spring is compressed and secured to the frame. Unless the rod snaps it is impossible to shoot the spring across the garage...

The external compressors are really just used for the MacPherson strut assemblies. About the only way to do them easily and quickly.
I'm more leary of doing those than the C3 springs.
 
You must admit, the proper compressor fits the spring nicely. :wink:

Fitment is very important. I used external compressors in the past and those won't fit the C3 at all. I built my own because I wanted the threaded rod to go thru the upper shock mounting hole, that way the spring is compressed and secured to the frame. Unless the rod snaps it is impossible to shoot the spring across the garage...

The external compressors are really just used for the MacPherson strut assemblies. About the only way to do them easily and quickly.
I'm more leary of doing those than the C3 springs.

I'm not sure I would want to use them on much of anything.
 
Thanks guys, what I think I'll do will do is go from the lower and the aluminum plate then unload the spring with the top portion of the compressor. The plate will make a stable spot for the compressor screw. Kind of similar to the suggestion of MYBAD79 but going through the lower control arm, then unload and remove the spring. Install new spring in the reverse order.

I don't understand.
You have the proper pro tool. Why won't it work.

I bought the one I pictured back in 1971 or 72 and have used it hundreds of times in the last 38 years or so to do bushings, arms etc with never a problem and not used any chains or ropes etc.
The only rule is to always keep the compressed spring at right angles to your body.
Works on pretty well all a-frame vehicles.

Zip the compressor down with an air gun, insert the top into the frame pocket, butting the coil end into a bolt inserted into the alignment hole, while jacking up the lower arm with a floor jack and guiding the lower spring into the lower pocket at the same time. When in the lower pocket keep jacking and guiding the ball joint into the knuckle and finger tighten the nut. Then unzip the compressor with the air gun. 10 minutes for all if your slow.
Worst that can happen is the spring shoots the lower a arm down.

What problems were you having.
 
Thanks guys, what I think I'll do will do is go from the lower and the aluminum plate then unload the spring with the top portion of the compressor. The plate will make a stable spot for the compressor screw. Kind of similar to the suggestion of MYBAD79 but going through the lower control arm, then unload and remove the spring. Install new spring in the reverse order.

I don't understand.
You have the proper pro tool. Why won't it work.

I bought the one I pictured back in 1971 or 72 and have used it hundreds of times in the last 38 years or so to do bushings, arms etc with never a problem and not used any chains or ropes etc.
The only rule is to always keep the compressed spring at right angles to your body.
Works on pretty well all a-frame vehicles.

Zip the compressor down with an air gun, insert the top into the frame pocket, butting the coil end into a bolt inserted into the alignment hole, while jacking up the lower arm with a floor jack and guiding the lower spring into the lower pocket at the same time. When in the lower pocket keep jacking and guiding the ball joint into the knuckle and finger tighten the nut. Then unzip the compressor with the air gun. 10 minutes for all if your slow.
Worst that can happen is the spring shoots the lower a arm down.

What problems were you having.


Both the engine, trans, and body are out/off the car.
 

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