Coil Spring R&R problem

[mrvette]

Hook the jack to the frame, much easier that way....gotta watch the positioning though, obviously....

:smash::thumbs:

 

[010752]

Thanks guys, what I think I'll do will do is go from the lower and the aluminum plate then unload the spring with the top portion of the compressor. The plate will make a stable spot for the compressor screw. Kind of similar to the suggestion of MYBAD79 but going through the lower control arm, then unload and remove the spring. Install new spring in the reverse order.

I don't understand.
You have the proper pro tool. Why won't it work.

I bought the one I pictured back in 1971 or 72 and have used it hundreds of times in the last 38 years or so to do bushings, arms etc with never a problem and not used any chains or ropes etc.
The only rule is to always keep the compressed spring at right angles to your body.
Works on pretty well all a-frame vehicles.

Zip the compressor down with an air gun, insert the top into the frame pocket, butting the coil end into a bolt inserted into the alignment hole, while jacking up the lower arm with a floor jack and guiding the lower spring into the lower pocket at the same time. When in the lower pocket keep jacking and guiding the ball joint into the knuckle and finger tighten the nut. Then unzip the compressor with the air gun. 10 minutes for all if your slow.
Worst that can happen is the spring shoots the lower a arm down.

What problems were you having.

Both the engine, trans, and body are out/off the car.

Doesn't make a difference, should be no load with the spring compressed.

Why don't you post a pic with your problem.:noworry:

 

[keywestjack]

Got it out with no problem.

 

[la80vette]

keywestjack,
I had the identical situation with my 80'. Engine, trans and body off. I also purchased the same internal spring compressor as you did. It was very difficult getting it in and out through the lower a-arm. Not to mention when I popped the ball joint, the compressor slipped and the spring fell out ( but didn't fly out). I determined that compressor really isn't made for that spring. I,m not recommending this but I did the other side with no compressor and the spring again just fell out. This was on a small block car and I made sure I was not in the path of release ( AGAIN, I AM NOT RECOMMENDING THIS ). I had thought of an idea to strap the frame to the floor using expansion bolts in the slab which would allow me to jack under the lower arm. I also like MYBAD79's setup seeing as how the spring rate on your car is not that severe. But I believe your idea of modifying your compressor with the plate at the bottom may be the best ( keywestjack ) because positioning the compressor from the bottom allows you to seat the spring end in the pocket properly( turned to the end but not covering the weep hole )

Stephen

 

[keywestjack]

Thanks for the complement. I worked well for me. It turns out the spring I was removing was a small block spring and not the big block that I believe was supposed to be in a small block w/air conditioning. I only learned that when I put the replacement Moog spring next to it. Low and behold it was smaller and thicker. Why the wrong spring was in the car is still unknown to me but I am happier I don't have to deal with it in the replacement. Jack

 

[Richard454]

Here's why I made this piece....





Here's the tread-
http://www.vettemod.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5627

 

[big2bird]

Here's why I made this piece....





Here's the tread-
http://www.vettemod.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5627

That's a nice jig, very similar to the dealers jig.

 

[1Michel]

Nice but it wont work if youre trying to put back the suspension on a bare frame, no body and engine.

I put my springs back on using quarter inche by 2 inches flatbar about 2 ft long.
Made a hole for the rod.

made a hole for a threaded bar I think it was .75 in on the flatbar, I had about a foot long on one side and about 1 inch and half more than the size of the spring.
That made sure that the hole in the flat bar was far enough so if the spring slips, everything will stay together.

Safe enough.

 

[keywestjack]

Nice but it wont work if youre trying to put back the suspension on a bare frame, no body and engine.

I put my springs back on using quarter inche by 2 inches flatbar about 2 ft long.
Made a hole for the rod.

made a hole for a threaded bar I think it was .75 in on the flatbar, I had about a foot long on one side and about 1 inch and half more than the size of the spring.
That made sure that the hole in the flat bar was far enough so if the spring slips, everything will stay together.

Safe enough.

:1st:Sounds similar to what some of us have used. With the body off you are left with little else.:beer:

 

[68/70Vette]

OMGod

Those generic spring compressors are awful. Here's what you do. If the lower control arm is disconnected from the spindle (i.e. the ball joint stud is not connected to the spindle), place the spring in place in the frame tower and place the bottom of the spring on the lower control arm. Now take a floor jack and place it under the lower control arm extreme end; i.e under the ball joint, and start to jack the lower control arm up. OPPPS If you have the engine out of the car, jacking up the control arm will just cause the entire car (or frame) to lift up and you won't get the lower control arm ball joint stud to mate into the spindle. What to do Place the lifting part of the jack under the extreme end of the lower control arm (under the ball joint).....now shift the jack body under the frame extention in front of the control arms, wrap a chain around the frame extention and around the jack body. Put a bolt through the chain loops. Now jack up the lower control arm, as the frame tends to lift up, the chain will maintain the jack to frame dimension. You can now compress the lower control arm. The spring will initially not go into the correct location in the upper spring tower. Take a BF hammer and knock it into place (using a large screwdriver as a lever might work also).

Also,

Richard454, is offering to sell a duplicate of the factory spring remover tool. The factory tool allows the spindle and all ball joints to be connected. Before the spring is compressed, the lower control arm is disconnected from the frame. The tool (with a floor jack) compresses the lower control arm mounting fasteners up to the frame. This allows you to remove and replace the spring without disconnecting the ball joint stud (a PITA). Easily removing and replacing the spring is desirable if you're trying to cut the spring down in experimental lengths for the correct nose heights. The factory tool, I believe, causes the spring to mate correctly into the spring tower and lower control arm...this is something my jack technique doesn't do.

PM Richard454 for his tool. Yes, his tool requires the engine (substantial frame weight) be in the car. Otherwise, you can use my frame/jack chain technique. I've PM'd Richard454 to be on his list of customers. Anything that makes spring replacement easier is just really great.

Spring R and R..such fun. Ranks right up there with R and R the Power Brake/vacuum booster can. Actually, the vacuum canister booster is far worse IMO.

 

[010752]

I still don't understand :suicide: