Complete electrical failure, intermittent.

Haha, you guys are funny.


So it would be those little white plastic cylinders inline with my starter wiring right? What's the fix for those? Do I need to crimp an inline fuse in there?
 
Haha, you guys are funny.


So it would be those little white plastic cylinders inline with my starter wiring right? What's the fix for those? Do I need to crimp an inline fuse in there?
Yes the fusible links are at the starter but the white plastic cylinders are actually crimp connectors,the fusible link is the length of wire between the white plastic and the pos term of the solenoid. Just replace that length of wire with a legnth of fusible link wire from AZ.
 
Before you start cutting, have you checked that big connector yet? If you run a lot of amps through it it will melt, the contacts will corrode and running over a bump will cut all power. Been there, done that.
 
Before you start cutting, have you checked that big connector yet? If you run a lot of amps through it it will melt, the contacts will corrode and running over a bump will cut all power. Been there, done that.

110% CORRECT Surely I have posted about that white square connector up top there, they are FAMOUS for being buzzy/bad in ANY USE, any appliance, from a TV set through a car...you see one of them replace it.....wire around it....

:clap::D
 
Before you start cutting, have you checked that big connector yet? If you run a lot of amps through it it will melt, the contacts will corrode and running over a bump will cut all power. Been there, done that.

110% CORRECT Surely I have posted about that white square connector up top there, they are FAMOUS for being buzzy/bad in ANY USE, any appliance, from a TV set through a car...you see one of them replace it.....wire around it....

:clap::D

I agree and this connector is so so easy to get to. Just in case there is confusion about where this connector is I included a pic.
connectorstarter6wire.jpg
 
Yes, right in the vicinity of the heater core. The other side runs straight to the starter and the grounds to the bellhousing.
 
So if it looks messed up, I should just cut it out and solder the wires together?

P.S. TT, the quick reply feature sucks. You should make it so that it doesn't need to be activated by quoting a post, you should just be able to type in the quick reply box below and post.
 
No, get a high amp rated connector and use that. AMP has some blue ones that are stackable that you could use.

The quick reply feature does work but not with the latest IE (also in Windows7), I haven't tried to fix it yet but it's annoying indeed.
 
My 80 had that problem with same connector. Cut main supply wire out of connector, cleaned wire, soldered connection 10 years ago and no problem
 
My 80 had that problem with same connector. Cut main supply wire out of connector, cleaned wire, soldered connection 10 years ago and no problem

Don't see any real problem cutting the connector out , other than using it for testing it doesn't serve much purpose,however I just submerge both ends of the connector in Dupont body metal etch and they usually clean up nice and make good contact.
 
On the 77, that connector breaks out of the harness just to the right of the distributor.

You called it Tim, it was up top.

So the terminals connecting to the big red wire looked shot, so I bypassed that wire and soldered it. But, still had the problem.

So I charged up the battery and the problem seems to be gone. But I'm thinking it's just intermittent and I'm not seeing it. I doubt charging the battery would have fixed it.

Although, I noticed something strange. After charging for 4 hours, I fired it up and noticed the volt meter was only around 12, not charging for about 10 mins. Even with the charger on the battery, not showing more than 12. Then after it warmed up I reved it to 6K and all of a sudden it was charging at idle again, showing 14 volts. Does this mean anything?
 
yes, your alternator is not charging at idle, either it's shot internally or the sensing wire has a problem and revving it will let it auto excite
 
ALL the pins in that connector are suspect, solder/splice ALL the wires,

sounds like you only did one of them....that connector is an assy line aide not in earlier sharks....

then try it, check your alt reg pins with engine running revved maybe once to 1500 rpm after it starts....then at idle....

the regulator connector should have two pins -- arranged like that....

looking from backside of alt, facing forward on the car, the MOST CLOCKWISE wire (typically red on a aftermarket connector, and most GM cars, but not on the vettes for some stupid reason) that wire will have same as the alt output stud....12+ volts 14 volts, whatever...that is the sense wire.....the other wire, least clockwise will have that resistor wire or maybe the idiot light going to the switched 12 ignition source from the switch...that should have only slightly less than the above 12-14 some odd voltage.....

if not, or your have a lit idiot light, you have a bad alternator....that second alt reg wire above, should have voltage on it with engine running...but almost none with ign on and engine still.....as if it was going to light the idiot light...grounding that end of the bulb....

:flash: hope that not tooooo confusing....


:bonkers:
 
Well I took out that connector and it seems to be running fine. Took a 200 mile roundtrip the other day with no issues.

But it still doesn't charge unless I rev it to 3K. Then it starts charging.

Change the regulator

Isn't that inside the alternator?
 
Well I took out that connector and it seems to be running fine. Took a 200 mile roundtrip the other day with no issues.

But it still doesn't charge unless I rev it to 3K. Then it starts charging.

Change the regulator

Isn't that inside the alternator?

Yes, it IS, IF the two bladed connector is arranged -- if it is arranged [[ it has a external regulator a metal box on the firewall....and if that is the case, I would update to a modern alt with electronic regulator....

:thumbs:
 
yes, your alternator is not charging at idle, either it's shot internally or the sensing wire has a problem and revving it will let it auto excite

But it still doesn't charge unless I rev it to 3K. Then it starts charging.

Not sure what year you have (78-82),the 80-81 had some funny wiring when it comes to the exciter circuit,it is complicated with the choke heater relay circuit.
TT mentioned the exciter circuit. Thats the small brown wire in the 2 wire plug coming out of the alt. The wire goes to the BATT or ALT light in the center cluster and is essential to make the alt charge.
If you want to bypass the factory exciter circuit and do a temporary mock circuit just to be sure before you tear into the alt let me know and I will post up a picture showing how to do it with a 12v testlight.
 
It must have been the connector. Been a month now of smooth driving. Thanks guys!
 

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