Control arms with Johnny joints

If you use 8 bearings, upper and lower, at $70 each you are getting close to Duntov’s price. If they require machining, and you have to send it out .....

There is probably a good solution, just need to keep looking.

Ozgreen69 used linear bearings. Check out his thread. He’s actually driving it now.
 
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=82XWMLSdlIU&app=desktop[/ame]

Guy made his own adapters.
 
Hmmm, seems they are pretty proud of the product. As I recall the SPC uppers were on the order of 250 each.

Happy hunting.

Cheers - Jim
 
COLE SWEAT said:
duntov was 879 for the 2 upper arms the lower arms are 875
Click to expand...

Okay, twice what I was thinking.

Phadt has a c5/C6 kit that runs $1000.

I’ve decided to convert my TA’s. Will follow that video above.
 
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To my knowledge - no. But I suggest you give Mark Savitske a call. A wealth of info - wrote the; How to Make Your Muscle Car Handle.

http://scandc.com/new/node/9

Not associated-- blah, blah, just really pleased with his support. Bet he'd have a plan for your heat issues regards the front suspension.

Cheers - Jim
 
I am really please with my mod. The killer is the cost of machining these days !! And finding someone interested to do it !!
And when you have the lathe or the milling machine you still need to buy a new cutting tool !
When you factor the cost of bearings, and the new cups for the bearings, new shafts and fitting plus the time spent chasing those parts, it cost me like at least $400 per arms. I closed my eyes on the cost past the thousand mark!:huh:
 
COLE SWEAT said:
benefit would be that the bushing would not melt.

I understand that the del-a-lum bushings will melt with the heat from the headers.

this is a big block car

Duntov sells this set up with the johnny joints but they are very proud of their parts.

why would they need to be adjustable, the thurst washers and lock nuts will hold it in place

like I said, there was a thread on this a few years ago, just can't find it
Click to expand...

I am putting my car together and noticed that the poly bushing for the A-arm is very close to #1 cylinder header tube (also a BB car). Maybe 1/4 inch. And that is before camber is set.

I don't want to dimple the header tube and I also don't want my Poly joints to melt. Maybe put a thin aluminum shield between?
 
I think using a Johnny joint for the rear, trailing arm is an excellent idea. I did it on plastic fantastic (the first one). Be sure when you install them that you can reach into the joint to lube it. I didn't have that trouble because I was using aftermarket, offset arms - but on a stock arm that could be a bit of a challenge.

On the front, granted it was hooker side pipes, but I never had problems with the poly bushings on the control arms.

I would not do johnny joints on the front - it's a lot of money for flexibility in a direction you don't need. I'm also not a fan on heim for anything but racing because they wear out fairly quickly - and unless you're on checking it on a racing schedule, it's just a catastrophe waiting to happen.

my 2cents - but I am not a pro no matter how much one may squint in my direction.
 
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