JeffP1167
Well-known member
Grind down the "W" on the plenum and make it a "V" ... BMVette
Corvette V12 Project...
- Thread starter Richard454
- Start date
ToddG
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jan 31, 2010
- Messages
- 113
That is just too Kool!! :rofl:
Richard454
Well-known member
Moving forward on my project.... I was trying to avoid a Dry Sump- but the factory oil pump is right in the way of the steering linkage.
The pan is at my buddy's shop being worked over- I'm thinking I can fit a 6½ Qt dry sump in the fender well - just removing my vacuum tank and either going electric on lights and wiper door-or make/find another tank and move it.
Here's the layout that I figured would work- Any thoughts on a Dry Sump System?
The clutch/transmission - I think I've got it figured out. I'm going to run a BMW flywheel & pressure plate with is 280mm- w/ a 11" Ford disc (279mm-pretty close...)and for the trans a Tremec T45 out of a Ford modular motor Mustang. It has a mechanical speedo output and the shifter is only ½" back from the stock Muncie.
I'm going to take the Bellhousing from the BMW automatic and make an adapter for the Ford. And run w/ a Hyd clutch.
The pan is at my buddy's shop being worked over- I'm thinking I can fit a 6½ Qt dry sump in the fender well - just removing my vacuum tank and either going electric on lights and wiper door-or make/find another tank and move it.
Here's the layout that I figured would work- Any thoughts on a Dry Sump System?
The clutch/transmission - I think I've got it figured out. I'm going to run a BMW flywheel & pressure plate with is 280mm- w/ a 11" Ford disc (279mm-pretty close...)and for the trans a Tremec T45 out of a Ford modular motor Mustang. It has a mechanical speedo output and the shifter is only ½" back from the stock Muncie.
I'm going to take the Bellhousing from the BMW automatic and make an adapter for the Ford. And run w/ a Hyd clutch.
mrvette
Phantom of the Opera
Rich, my '72 ran for years with no vac tank,..the one under the driver fender was broken from metal fatique--cracked all to hell, so I just hooked it all up without it....
I took the wiper door vac solenoid apart and reduced the spring pressure a whole lot, cut it and then stretched what was left....that made it less sensitive to start ups flipping the door up...
course over the years the operating lights went, then the door was electrified....
:quote:
I took the wiper door vac solenoid apart and reduced the spring pressure a whole lot, cut it and then stretched what was left....that made it less sensitive to start ups flipping the door up...
course over the years the operating lights went, then the door was electrified....
:quote:
TimAT
Addict, Cruise-In Bird-Run 1 Veteran
Just whip up some little brackets to mount those covers, run a phony PCV valve/hose, and watch the guys at the shows doing "WTF?????????":confused2:
One of the better looking swaps I've seen.
enkeivette
Well-known member
- Joined
- Mar 30, 2008
- Messages
- 990
Richard454
Well-known member
I'm thinking more like Bavarian Motored Vette....
Anyway- Pan is finished- well, till I figure where I'm gonna attach the return or scavenge lines for the dry sump.
Plenty of clearance here!!!!
No clearance here..... It's a two piece oil pan
Here's the factory windage tray-
Original stock oil pan was a MONSTER....
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Richard454
Well-known member
*****UPDATE*****
Finally have had some time to work on the car...
I was undecided about the tran...bought a T45- mechanical speedo and has the right gears for my 3.08...BUT then ran across a Richmond 6 speed- sweet deal- and w/ a 3.28 first and a .76 6th- I couldn't find better gearing.
Using the ROD 6 speed-the shifter will be in the stock location, I won't have to shorten the driveshaft- plus the speedo will bolt right in.
Problem- bolting the trans to the v12-
I looked hard and found a flywheel off a BMW 850 6-speed...The dealer wants $800-1000 for these- I got a hold of a used one- which is a feat itself- only 800 or so BMW 850's came to the US w/ a manual transmission...
The BMW flywheel is about 13"- I first tried the Chevy 11" but it hung over the starter ring. I moved down to a 10.4 and it will fit prefect. Even the BMW dowls will fit running the Chevy ( Ram ) pressureplate.
The pilot bushing-or rather BMW pilot bearing fits the input shaft almost- had to polish it down less than .050-
I took an automatic bellhousing off my donor BMW 750-almost 8" in height and took almost an inch and a half off. I found the center- bolted it down to the mill and cut away....
I then took some ½ aluminum and copied the bolt pattern off a GM 403 bellhousing I had laying around.
Centered it up- milled down a ½ notch for it to fit- tack welded it- then centered it up and milled out the center so the input flange would fit snug.
I am going to clean up the ½ plate after I test fit it....
Another solution- I found a tiny 75amp alternator off a Geo Storm w/ AC that I'm going to use because of limited space-At PullAPart for $14- looks EXACTLY like the one Summit sells for about $300...
Left to right- BMW 125A stock (air cooled), Geo and the GM stock 63A
Finally have had some time to work on the car...
I was undecided about the tran...bought a T45- mechanical speedo and has the right gears for my 3.08...BUT then ran across a Richmond 6 speed- sweet deal- and w/ a 3.28 first and a .76 6th- I couldn't find better gearing.
Using the ROD 6 speed-the shifter will be in the stock location, I won't have to shorten the driveshaft- plus the speedo will bolt right in.
Problem- bolting the trans to the v12-
I looked hard and found a flywheel off a BMW 850 6-speed...The dealer wants $800-1000 for these- I got a hold of a used one- which is a feat itself- only 800 or so BMW 850's came to the US w/ a manual transmission...
The BMW flywheel is about 13"- I first tried the Chevy 11" but it hung over the starter ring. I moved down to a 10.4 and it will fit prefect. Even the BMW dowls will fit running the Chevy ( Ram ) pressureplate.
The pilot bushing-or rather BMW pilot bearing fits the input shaft almost- had to polish it down less than .050-
I took an automatic bellhousing off my donor BMW 750-almost 8" in height and took almost an inch and a half off. I found the center- bolted it down to the mill and cut away....
I then took some ½ aluminum and copied the bolt pattern off a GM 403 bellhousing I had laying around.
Centered it up- milled down a ½ notch for it to fit- tack welded it- then centered it up and milled out the center so the input flange would fit snug.
I am going to clean up the ½ plate after I test fit it....
Another solution- I found a tiny 75amp alternator off a Geo Storm w/ AC that I'm going to use because of limited space-At PullAPart for $14- looks EXACTLY like the one Summit sells for about $300...
Left to right- BMW 125A stock (air cooled), Geo and the GM stock 63A
Nice work. The engine looks like if fits in there pretty good, even looks narrower than a BB?
damoroso
Well-known member
Nice work! If that alternator isn't as strong as you'd like it to be, you might be able to find someone locally who rebuilds them and ask them if they could get more amps out of it. I had mine re-worked and it puts out 135amps now.
denpo
Carburated Nihilist
did you had the stock one re-worked? approx price?
damoroso
Well-known member
Kind of. I have a serpentine set up on the big block I put in the car. The alternator that came with that (off a 91 S10 V6) is what was reworked. Bascially an overhaul new bearings and the like, plus the different armature to bring it up in amps. $100.
Richard454
Well-known member
My New Year's Goal....
Have the engine and tranny bolted together.....
However...the engine is my spare mock up and the transmission is just an empty case...but I did it!!!!
A big feeling of accomplishment on what I felt was the toughest part.
Tomorrow- I'll try to set up a hydraulic clutch set up ...
BBShark- Thanks! The engine is a 60 degree design- so it is narrower than a BB. Really compact on the main block - the rods share a journal. However- the SOHC takes up a bunch of space as well as the cam cover/chains. The plugs will be easier to change then a BBC, but I have to change 4 more....
Happy New Year!!!
Richard
Have the engine and tranny bolted together.....
However...the engine is my spare mock up and the transmission is just an empty case...but I did it!!!!
A big feeling of accomplishment on what I felt was the toughest part.
Tomorrow- I'll try to set up a hydraulic clutch set up ...
BBShark- Thanks! The engine is a 60 degree design- so it is narrower than a BB. Really compact on the main block - the rods share a journal. However- the SOHC takes up a bunch of space as well as the cam cover/chains. The plugs will be easier to change then a BBC, but I have to change 4 more....
Happy New Year!!!
Richard
Richard454
Well-known member
Yes...Been moving along. I try to do a little something everyday-I do have a long list!!!
The rear suspension is ready to put in. I had Vansteel do the wheel bearing and went w/ the coil overs w/ offset TAs.
No- I didn't buy the carbonfiber ½shafts...they're just painted to look like it...
Also went through the diff-
I had to repair the battery & jack storage buckets- the PO broke the halfshafts and the fiberglass was messed up. I went w/ a carbonfiber look- I don't think it's too ricer looking ( only looks splotchy in the photo)
I figured out the alternator- It's a Nippon Denso of a mid 90's GEO Storm w/ AC- I had to make a bushing so I could fit a 4 rib pulley. And I'm in the process of making a tensioner -very tight fit!!! I used ½ plate aluminum to mount the alt to the block and made 3/8 spacer behind the thermostat outlet
for the second mount and tensioner mount. There is NO where to bolt anything to the front of this engine- Here's the alt on my mock up engine.
Took the factory PS & ALT mount- cut it down and set up a mounting block for the dry sump I have a Weaver/Stock Car Products used for mock up- but going to use a Peterson 3 stage.
The oil pan is almost done- I'm gonna do it like a LS7 pan but w/ two P/Us in the pan along w/ the factory windage tray. Gotta figure the locations when I get the Peterson Dry Sump in.
So..the project is moving along- still awaiting the front semi-coilovers from Vansteel ...
Here's what I'm going w/ for tires- 18 x 8 and 18 x 9.5 Boss 338 Nitto 555
More to come.....
Thanks for asking!!!
Richard
The rear suspension is ready to put in. I had Vansteel do the wheel bearing and went w/ the coil overs w/ offset TAs.
No- I didn't buy the carbonfiber ½shafts...they're just painted to look like it...
Also went through the diff-
I had to repair the battery & jack storage buckets- the PO broke the halfshafts and the fiberglass was messed up. I went w/ a carbonfiber look- I don't think it's too ricer looking ( only looks splotchy in the photo)
I figured out the alternator- It's a Nippon Denso of a mid 90's GEO Storm w/ AC- I had to make a bushing so I could fit a 4 rib pulley. And I'm in the process of making a tensioner -very tight fit!!! I used ½ plate aluminum to mount the alt to the block and made 3/8 spacer behind the thermostat outlet
for the second mount and tensioner mount. There is NO where to bolt anything to the front of this engine- Here's the alt on my mock up engine.
Took the factory PS & ALT mount- cut it down and set up a mounting block for the dry sump I have a Weaver/Stock Car Products used for mock up- but going to use a Peterson 3 stage.
The oil pan is almost done- I'm gonna do it like a LS7 pan but w/ two P/Us in the pan along w/ the factory windage tray. Gotta figure the locations when I get the Peterson Dry Sump in.
So..the project is moving along- still awaiting the front semi-coilovers from Vansteel ...
Here's what I'm going w/ for tires- 18 x 8 and 18 x 9.5 Boss 338 Nitto 555
More to come.....
Thanks for asking!!!
Richard
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MYBAD79
Moderator
What are you going to do about the exhaust? It would probably not fit but 6 stainless primaries on each side going Hooker style into 5" sidepipes would be a pretty sweet setup 
Richard454
Well-known member
Thanks- It'll be soooo smooth -you might as well call me "Keith Stone"
The exhaust -initially - will be the stock manifolds- which are 3 into 1 ...so I'll have two pipes run down to some sidepipes.
How about something like this-
The car finally rolled on it's own rear tires- rear is done...well almost...still need new brake lines and rotors...
I'm happy w/ the stance-
The exhaust -initially - will be the stock manifolds- which are 3 into 1 ...so I'll have two pipes run down to some sidepipes.
How about something like this-
The car finally rolled on it's own rear tires- rear is done...well almost...still need new brake lines and rotors...
I'm happy w/ the stance-
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Richard454
Well-known member
More progress....
Some big steps here-
I've got the alternator figured out- A Nippon Denso 75amp w/ a bushing made to fit the smallest diameter 4 rib pulley I could find. My buddy welded up a aluminum 3/8" bracket- bolting to the block- and I made a spacer/bracket under the thermostat to support the BMW factory serp tension-er system. I had an old A/C belt off my wife's BMW M- Roadster which fit perfectly!!!
A TIGHT fit....But alternator is removable/servicable w/o pulling the engine!!!
I found some neat P/U's for my oil pan- Just screw in to some AN bulkhead fittings- and will be able to use the factory windage tray.
Some big steps here-
I've got the alternator figured out- A Nippon Denso 75amp w/ a bushing made to fit the smallest diameter 4 rib pulley I could find. My buddy welded up a aluminum 3/8" bracket- bolting to the block- and I made a spacer/bracket under the thermostat to support the BMW factory serp tension-er system. I had an old A/C belt off my wife's BMW M- Roadster which fit perfectly!!!
A TIGHT fit....But alternator is removable/servicable w/o pulling the engine!!!
I found some neat P/U's for my oil pan- Just screw in to some AN bulkhead fittings- and will be able to use the factory windage tray.
denpo
Carburated Nihilist
Header P0rn!!!Thanks- It'll be soooo smooth -you might as well call me "Keith Stone"
The exhaust -initially - will be the stock manifolds- which are 3 into 1 ...so I'll have two pipes run down to some sidepipes.
How about something like this-
