Crap!!!! Broke a freakin head bolt!!!!!

For shure must be a bad bolt!!!
99% of cases torque wrenches lose the calibration in the opposite way...... they "click" under less torque!!!

Anyway a 1/2" bolt even of the lower ARP quality should be able to pull the block threads before to break!

Can you check the color of the steel on the broken surface???
If you notice a dark portion and a clear portion of it...... the bolt should be allready damaged!

In my engine I would change all the bolts..... or, better, install a set of studs!
 
JAKE said:
It's up to you, but I wouldn't take the chance.
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I agree, not for $60.... buy another set and then argue with them about the first set you bought.... they can the reimburse you for the second set or if they insist on a replacement set you can then sell that one ....
 
MYBAD79 said:
I agree, not for $60.... buy another set and then argue with them about the first set you bought.... they can the reimburse you for the second set or if they insist on a replacement set you can then sell that one ....
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I know, I know all you guys definately have a point and are probably right. One head is on with the bolts that were "fine' and I am going to install the others again that were used when the bolt broke. If it were $60 I would not hesitate but the set that I need for my edelbrock heads are 2x that. May not be a lot for some of you guys but right now it is more than I want to spend but will if I have to.


Thanks
Wade
 
BlackRat said:
I know, I know all you guys definately have a point and are probably right. One head is on with the bolts that were "fine' and I am going to install the others again that were used when the bolt broke. If it were $60 I would not hesitate but the set that I need for my edelbrock heads are 2x that. May not be a lot for some of you guys but right now it is more than I want to spend but will if I have to.


Thanks
Wade
Click to expand...

It's your engine, but in this case I would really consider new bolts. It's just the bolts that hold your head on and if a bolt breaks or even streches......well you know. Just my 03 cents.:clobbered:
 
big2bird said:
Yep. I wonder if the counterfeiters have invaded their stuff?
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You know Birds thought here is worth consideration. It wouldn't be the first time fasteners were counterfeited.

Also, I bought a set of Lunati roller lifters from Summit. They came in the original box with the original papers. However, they were obviously used. I called Summit they took them back no problem BUT, they told me that they were probably returns that "looked shiny" to the guy at the warehouse so they were considered new.
 
Ok now I am really listening. Thanks for the link but I have a question. I looked this # up on Summits site because I know I have to order some stuff from there and they have the same set for $59. The problem is it says, "Designed to fit cast iron factory-style cylinder heads." What is the difference??? Is there a difference? I have aluminum Edelbrock heads.

Here is what I have.
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=ARP%2D135%2D3610&autoview=sku

Here are the others.
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=ARP%2D135%2D3601&autoview=sku

Thanks
Wade
 
There is a difference in bolt length (?) or something with Edelbock BB aluminum heads. I can't remember the specifics but the info that came with the heads explained.

I did find something interesting at the Summit link you provided. Look at the warranty tab:

ARP stands behind their products indefinitely with respect to materials and workmanship. Automotive Racing Products would like to deal with the customer directly when they have a problem. Automotive Racing Products is interested in customer satisfaction and will make exceptions on an individual and case-by-case basis.

That's why I can't understand why they don't want to examine that bolt.
 
BBShark said:
There is a difference in bolt length (?) or something with Edelbock BB aluminum heads. I can't remember the specifics but the info that came with the heads explained.

I did find something interesting at the Summit link you provided. Look at the warranty tab:

ARP stands behind their products indefinitely with respect to materials and workmanship. Automotive Racing Products would like to deal with the customer directly when they have a problem. Automotive Racing Products is interested in customer satisfaction and will make exceptions on an individual and case-by-case basis.

That's why I can't understand why they don't want to examine that bolt.
Click to expand...

I know that when I bought my heads they came with 8 long bolts that I needed to use instead of the ones with the ARP kit. These were the longest of all 16 that run down the middle rail of the head below the valve cover lip. I do't think the length's of the others is different but I don't have an old set for comarison.

Wade
 
BlackRat said:
The problem is it says, "Designed to fit cast iron factory-style cylinder heads." What is the difference??? Is there a difference? I have aluminum Edelbrock heads.

Wade
Click to expand...


Go to Edelbrocks website and download the tech info for your heads. I found in the past that the tech info they provide is quiet good, their customer service/tech line pretty much sux....I got no help emailing them but then found the info I needed on their website.

If your heads require bolts other than stock it will be on the tech sheet...
 
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The new bolt came in from ARP. I compared it to the others visually and they were identical. I know this really does not mean anything but after talking to the machine shop and several others I decided to stick with the ones I have. I installed the other head yesterday and all bolts torqued to spec and felt good not spungy.

Thanks for all the input and advice.


Wade
 
Sometimes if the washer is installed upside down it will cut into the radius of the bolt causing it to fail, We use alot of ARP hardware and so far no problems.
 
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