fiberglass springs and ride height issues ??

I did the body mounts with the body in place, just lifted it 1-2" with floor jacks.... I'll post pics of that setup tonight in a new thread.

You're saying that with one 8" and one 10" bolt the body looks ok but one half shaft angle is off. There must be a difference in frame measurements between the two setups (equal and unequal length bolts).

If nothing else, the new body mounts will eliminate a lot of squeeking noise....

The poly mounts are a LOT cheaper, got mine from Ecklers, $59 for the mounts and $25 or so for the new bolts.
 
I would check the lo side for the #4 body mount just aft of the rear wheel, as they are a famous rust out and they are riveted to the body with aluminum rivets, and then the bolt into them from the frame lip...they rust out and the body can sag quite a bit....

I put a plywood on top of a 4x4 in the ass end and raised the body to unload the frame just enough....cut the bolts and ground/buzzed the rivets.....

put in new mounts, and used stainless bolts, I have a vert so it was possible to get into the pockets by removing the hatch mounts.....super PIA that project was, but it got done in a couple daze, I cheated a bit and cut or bent the inner lip and left it not attached on my car, but loaded the underside of the mount with either epoxy or glass resin when the bolt was attached and everone home, last step, rust THIS again.....

:bump:
 
How hard are the mounts by the t-arms to change

I need to raise one side of my body

I think I'll just change out the 4 rear bushings

How high do I need to raise the body? I don't have much play with the roll cage

I may just shove some shims under the low body mounts and call it done
 
If you do this replace all 8 body mounts. You have to do them one side at a time if you do it with the body lifted only 1-2", then leave all bolts loose and shim the mounts so that 8 eight are loaded... this might take a while but it's worth the time. I used shims from Homedepot, they sell big fender washers in 2 or 3 different thicknesses.... cheap....
 
It would be interesting to see if the car is "wedged", essentially more weight supported by one side than the opposite. This could be verified with scales and I have seen this done with a couple of bathroom scales. Obviously both side should be equal for a street car.
 
MyBad79 gave me the link to this thread. I had brought this topic up over in projects but probably should have put it over here. http://www.vettemod.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1882

I have height issues with my '69 SB coupe. I used the dreaded TRW (315#) rear spring and Federal Mogul "replacement coils" up front in my chassis rebuild. The front measurements are ~29" to the lip and the rears are at 31". I still have a lot of weight to add (glass, bumpers, exhaust, battery, steering column, radiator, fluids/fuel, etc...) but I don't think the rear will budge much.

I will cut my coils to lower the front (needs to come down at least 2 inches)

wrt the rear, it look's like the suggestions are to go to a VBP spring. I'll likely go with the 300# spring w/ poly bushings and 8" bolts.

52948cc9697b60bb.jpg

52948cc97cd8b41a.jpg
 
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Before you spend more money on parts DRIVE the car and let the suspension settle.... maybe that will drop it to where it should be... at this time you already lost money on the parts you bought so you have nothing else to loose.... wait and see, maybe the rear is ok with 8" or 9" bolts ... you have 17" wheels ? Maybe that long bolt is not as much of an issue as it was for me with my 15" rims.....
Edit: not sure if it's the angle of the photo/camera but the last photo looks really horrible... like a 2500HD with a lift kit ...
 
MYBAD79 said:
Before you spend more money on parts DRIVE the car and let the suspension settle.... maybe that will drop it to where it should be... at this time you already lost money on the parts you bought so you have nothing else to loose.... wait and see, maybe the rear is ok with 8" or 9" bolts ... you have 17" wheels ? Maybe that long bolt is not as much of an issue as it was for me with my 15" rims.....
Edit: not sure if it's the angle of the photo/camera but the last photo looks really horrible... like a 2500HD with a lift kit ...
Click to expand...

No, it's "up there". Like 31+" from the concrete to the inside lip. My flares are stock and have never been hit, repaired, or modified. I do have 17" rims. I will try it out for a bit, but I am fairly certain that this spring will not be residing on my car for long.
 
Yellow73SB said:
Mine had too much arch

I have a fiberglass spring that sits nice and low though

600# rate

Heres my guldstrand 5 leaf

It's perfect,I think those are 8" bolts

101_1565.jpg
Click to expand...
What are the coil springs around the leaf spring mount bolts? I have never seen that before.
 
Me too :D

You can shorten a steel spring and go with 10" bolts, that's what I did.

wvew00.jpg
(Ignore the arrow)
 
little FYI for those wanting to dead drop the chassis down,
Remove the Rear end mount crossmember in the C2's and C3's. & pic yourself up 2" by this Penski (Bill Scott trick)
The rear end crossmember mount, drop and cut out the bottom area where the rear end mounted.
Cut out area where rear end bolted to the crossmember, then box this cut out area with new steel material rewelded to reinforce where cut out was, Now refit the install rear end. This should allow the rear end to move upward approx 2" from the stock position, and therefore lower the body height the same 2 " . Hope this makes sence to you all if not let me know.
Spice
 
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Don't you need to modify the front mount on the diffy as well? Otherwise you will be moving the rear of the diff up 2" and keeping the front at the stock position. Or am I missing something?
 
Yes, that needs to be raised and since the pinion mount hangs under the frame bracket you need to modify the mount that bolts to the diff.

Also, it changes the angle of the trailing arm, it would be wise to move the pivot point on those up as well. This was discussed in another thread some time ago, I even posted a CAD drawing of a notched crossmember but for the life of me I can't find the thread.

24a291f6f15a62.jpg
 
Yes Turbo and Kid Vette, sorry I forgot to mention that. But then, it's been since 1965 when we used the modifications. In fact it was Janurary 1965 getting the 63 Yenko /Bushell vette ready for Sebring battle . All mod's were really great, the Corvette was down where it needed to be. However too much neg. Camber burnt out the stock inner wheelbearing on the right side, and needless to say had our hands full, Bushell was driving about 120 when the right rear let go, and other than tearing up the quarter panel,
and sheared lugs, twisted trailing arm, the car faired pretty well.
When getting this Corvette back to the shop, the next Mod was notching the trailing arms for fatter indy slicks.
Great times and although not the best equipment to have had to work with, still we did OK.
Oh yes, Kenny DuClos took this same 63 to the NASSAU governors race and won. It was the FIRST and only Big Block to win at NASSAU.thum_9284a390986f13e5.jpg
 
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I raised mine maybe ¾” and it is up as high as possible without cutting the rear compartment.
 
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