Fluid quantities, newbie's questions

[denpo]

The only one who can be trusted is you, going round & round in whatever direction fits your zen until you are satisfied. I always have at least two quarts on hand, the (new) stuff that comes out I put in a different bottle to settle for a long time before I put it back in. With a dry, empty system, go get 3 or 4 quarts--don't crack cans any unless you need to, but have them ready in case.
Don't mess with "speed bleeders" & vacuum sucking---this just introduces air at the bleeder threads, which is still air in the fluid. "In my experience". Maybe a speed bleeder with pressure feed would work, I dunno, I don't have a pressure bleeder. I got a midnite fabbed spring loaded shaft & tube with a handle which I pull back and jam between the seat & brake pedal while I go work the bleed screws. Takes a while, but whatcha gonna do at midnite with no cooperative helper?
If it's been empty, after you're done, let it set a while, a day or two at least. Smack what you can with a hammer--tap lines where you can, smack rotors, to consolidate air bubbles.
Then bleed it again. Until you feel good about it.

Thanks for the smack/bleed twice advice, that makes a lot of sense.
I realize I can get a helping hand (foot) easily (Ms Denpo?), I think I'm gonna stick to the old fashion method after all.

I'm planning to put dot 3/4, problem is when I reinstalled the calipers I was still planning on dot 5, so I rubbed the piston with dot 5. Would a tiny amount of dot 5 mess a dot 3 system? Do I need to take down the caliper to wipe piston clean?

 

[phantomjock]

Back to the water...

Nobody mentioned adding/using "Water Wetter." Any thoughts, or is it all-wet?

 

[68/70Vette]

In my 68, I have used nothing but pure ethylene glycol since about 1973. This was after I had to replace the stock aluminum radiator with another aluminum radiator since the original had been corroded by water. I did change the stock engine out about 6 years ago for a ZZ4. The original engine water passages had no rust at all. They were covered with a white powder dust from the silicates in the pure ethylene glycol coolant. The ZZ4 thrives on pure ethylene glycol. With a Be-Cool radiator, engine temps never exceed 180 F.

My 97 Thunderbird and my 95 Cadillac SLS Seville DD's have 100% ethylene glycol coolant. No water at all in the coolant. They don't run hot.

For Canada, pure ethylene glycol will have a problem that at cold temps, it takes on the flow characteristics of cold honey. Getting the water pump to turn is probably a problem. If the ethylene glycol freezes, no problem. Unlike water it doesn't expand when frozen.

Why pure ethylene? (1) it's a water free dielectric..no corrosion (2) it doesn't boil until about 350 degrees F(?) With pure ethylene glycol the coolant system is never pressurized. If you have a leak, you don't immediately loose your coolant. If you get a leak, it just drips out. WWII fighter liquid cooled fighter planes all used pure ethylene glycol. Army tanks fitted with aircraft engines all used pure ethylene glycol. Works for me.

 

[MYBAD79]

I got the usual garden pressurized thingy, some tube and fittings.
I was planning to use some kind of metal plate, a sheet of gasket paper and a couple of wise, I mean, ghetto style.
my front clip is off, will be easier.

ghetto style is what I do... works .... can't argue with success..... it is ugly though....LOL


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