HD C3 IRS build up

[rtj]

Slowly wrapping this up. The billet trans yoke fit nicely, no Fiberglas cutting required.

 

[rtj]

The all thread held the two weld in nuts in alignment far better than I expected. The center bolt went right into place. Welds leave a lot to be desired, but the plan is to replace the frame in the next year or two. I'll have better access on a bare frame and hopefully have a Miller or Lincoln tig.

 

[rtj]

I did an alignment with a laser level with ta's at ride height. A couple of lessons learned:

Take msd box out before lots of tig welding.
The shocks required some clearancing.
I need to add travel limiters , raise the top shock mount, or get shorter travel shocks as the big 1/2 shafts bind right now at full travel.
The aluminum pucks on the cross-member need clearancing for the Tom's TA's when at full travel. I could cut the unused bracket on the ta's but may use that later.

The bolted adjusters on the TA's are pretty slick. I'll have to keep an eye on them as I only lock-nutted the outside. These have to be far stronger than with shims.

 

[rtj]

Got these off craigslist for a frame table. Now to get the msd box replaced and move this car for the winter. Then start the frame project.

 

[rtj]

Making these for the rear sway bar.

McMaster sells these cut offs pretty cheap. I'm going to make body mount bushings.

I'm

 

[rtj]

Was going to have to fix this bottom plate anyway, as it was dented and welds popped. Found a hole under the passenger a arm bracket. The frame is straight and no major damage (like jack stand dents), so I'll patch it up. Should have started this in Florida where the frames are better.

 

[rtj]

My fix for the clutch pedal position.



Looks like all I can use is the floor and rear clip on my the vert. But I'll use it as is for cage construction.

 

[rtj]

I'm going to try carbon fiber "skinning" on the deck lid and top. Got them cheap as the are rough.

 

[rtj]

Before refurbishing the pedals, put a couple of beads on the back of the pads. They looked like they were tack welded or resistance welded.

Been working on the house the last few months.

 

[rtj]

Got the frame welded up and all the rust spots fixed. Need to add gussets. The engine mount brace is shown above.

Then set up the I beams, install the body, and start a cage. I might end up going with a JD2 bender rather than building from plans.

If anyone is looking for instructional fabrication videos (free) I found : The Fabricator Series. It seems pretty good and he's using a JD2 bender.

 

[OZgreen69]

Nice to see. Looks like we are both "improving" our chassis at the same time!

 

[1Michel]

The all thread held the two weld in nuts in alignment far better than I expected. The center bolt went right into place. Welds leave a lot to be desired, but the plan is to replace the frame in the next year or two. I'll have better access on a bare frame and hopefully have a Miller or Lincoln tig.

I'm not sure how this is working, could you pls explain?
I understand that it will replace the shims but not sure how.

 

[rtj]

The all thread held the two weld in nuts in alignment far better than I expected. The center bolt went right into place. Welds leave a lot to be desired, but the plan is to replace the frame in the next year or two. I'll have better access on a bare frame and hopefully have a Miller or Lincoln tig.

I'm not sure how this is working, could you pls explain?
I understand that it will replace the shims but not sure how.

Sure. No shims are used. I put on my trailing arms with no leaf spring using the long thin grade 8 bolt at ride height. I attached a laser level to the brake disk (secured by lug nuts). With every thing installed and torqued up (except the spring), you slowly tighten up the 3/4 in bolts. I basically aligned the back wheels parallel to the frame. I made the bolts snug and used lock nuts to lock them in place. Lastly, the thin bolt is tightened up and locked with double nuts.

Welding that with the body on and no lift is a b_____! My welding skills aren't too good and even worse when laying down.

I might have added washers between the 3/4" bolts and the TA bushing, I don't remember. I did clean up the bolt end in the lathe.

The frame I'm working on now will have 2 positions, stock and raised 1 " or 1.5 ". My plan is to make a plate and weld in nuts or thread it, then weld the plates to the frame. I'll post some results in a month or two.

 

[rtj]

The idea was to strengthen the TA attachment. OEM basically loads the bolt in bending and shear across the full inside width. With the 3/4 " bolts the through bolt is mostly in shear, minimal bending.

 

[rtj]

http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/corp-0906-c3-corvette-fender-flares/

I hacked the flares off the 75 ( photos pages back) and was thinking I'd do something similar to this article. I'll add 1-1.25 inches width with metal straps, then fiberglass and foam to get them finished. The Mud-flap will probably get rounded off at the same time.



I may put this frame under the 75 and find a nicer one for the convertible body. The 75 is so hacked up now, it might be good for practice.

 

[BBShark]

The all thread held the two weld in nuts in alignment far better than I expected. The center bolt went right into place. Welds leave a lot to be desired, but the plan is to replace the frame in the next year or two. I'll have better access on a bare frame and hopefully have a Miller or Lincoln tig.

That is a very nicely done adjuster. Wish I had done that.

 

[rtj]

Seems pretty solid, haven't put a lot of miles on it.

I think I've finalized a new design which will give a choice between stock and 1 to 1.5 in drop. Will have a similar adjustment for the rear mount and pinion bracket.

The 75 is pretty beat, so it's a good car to experiment on.

 

[rtj]

I have an affinity for junk red convertibles, apparently. Bought this instead of going to the svra race in Indy.

I decide the first one was too good for using on my 75, and grabbed this. I’ll use the crusty Midwest frame and this on my 75.

It’s got some decent 1969 lap belts, deck lid hardware, and latches I’ll probably sell if you know someone in the market. I was checking eBay and some people think the old parts are gold.

 

[BBShark]

Even includes a custom trailer hitch!

 

[rtj]

Even includes a custom trailer hitch!

Yes! And extra rusty Midwest bumpers.

Actually, with the price of steel bar stock, I will gladly use that beefy steel hitch on another project.

Hey, I was looking at a long drive to Indy and 3 or 4 days in a hotel, and decided to grab this instead.